Squalane

Lipid2–10%

A lightweight, skin-friendly oil that softens and moisturises without feeling greasy, suited to most skin types.

What it is

Squalane is a saturated oil made either by hydrogenating squalene, a lipid found in skin's own sebum and in olives, or from farnesene made by fermenting sugarcane sugar. It helps skin feel soft and smooth and stay moisturised without a heavy finish. It is a supporting ingredient rather than a targeted active, and suits dry, sensitive and combination skin.

Good for

Dry skinSensitive skinCombination skinRough texture

How it works

Squalane spreads easily and forms a thin, breathable film that slows water loss and fills gaps between surface skin cells, so skin feels smoother.

Ratings

Evidence

3/5

Well-established emollient, but few trials of squalane alone.

Gentleness

5/5

Very well tolerated and suits sensitive skin and the eye area.

Formulation difficulty

1/5

Easy oil-phase addition, stable and compatible with most systems.

Cost

2/5

Moderate cost, though plant and sugarcane grades cost more.

Popularity

3/5

Steady but modest search volume, and common as a hero emollient.

Pairs and cautions

Pairs well with

In a routine. Pairing in one formula depends on matching pH windows.

Take care with

Substituting squalene for squalaneOxidises readily

Formulations it suits

Facial oil Serum Cream Lotion Balm Eye cream

Packaging

Regional considerations

Australia	AIIC-listed and not scheduled in the Poisons Standard, so Australia sets no strength limit, including for single-ingredient face oils.
United States	FDA sets no limit, and the CIR Expert Panel re-confirmed squalane and squalene as safe in cosmetics in its 2023 re-review.

In the lab

Specifications

Typical use level

2–10%0525%

Solubility

Oil-soluble

2–10% in creams and serums as a light emollient; single-ingredient face oils use it at up to 100%.

INCI	Squalane
Also known as	Olive squalane, Sugarcane-derived squalane, Perhydrosqualene
Origin	plant-derived

Lab notes

Solubility and phase

Oil phase. Miscible with most cosmetic oils and esters.

Stability

Add to the oil phase at any stage, as it is fully saturated and resists oxidation and heat.

Regulatory, Australia

Squalane is on the AIIC, is not scheduled and has no EU restriction. The US CIR panel confirmed it safe as used in cosmetics in its 2023 re-review.

Claims to take care with

'Moisturises' and 'softens' are cosmetic. 'Non-comedogenic', 'vegan' or 'shark-free' claims need test data or documentation of the source, which may be olive, sugarcane or, rarely now, shark liver.