{ "generated": "7 November 2026", "source": "SkinTech Lab catalogue", "actives": [ { "slug": "niacinamide", "name": "Niacinamide", "inci": "Niacinamide", "aka": [ "Vitamin B3", "Nicotinamide" ], "group": "skincare", "family": "Vitamin", "supplied_as": "powder", "origin": "synthetic", "one_liner": "A well-studied, easy-going vitamin that helps skin look more even, smoother and less shiny.", "plain_explainer": "Niacinamide is a water-soluble form of vitamin B3 that suits almost every skin type. It helps the appearance of uneven tone, visible pores and oiliness, and helps skin feel comfortable and well moisturised. It sits easily alongside most other actives.", "good_for": [ "Uneven tone", "Visible pores", "Oily skin", "Dull skin", "Dehydrated skin" ], "typical_use_level": "2–5%", "use_level_note": "2–5% suits daily moisturisers and serums; targeted serums use up to 10%.", "how_it_works": "Niacinamide is thought to support the skin's normal energy processes. In studies it helped skin make more of its own moisture-holding lipids and reduced how much pigment reached the surface, so over several weeks skin looked more even and felt better hydrated.", "scores": { "evidence": { "score": 5, "note": "Many controlled trials since the early 2000s at 2–5%." }, "gentleness": { "score": 4, "note": "Well tolerated at 2–5%; 10% caused no stinging or flushing in testing, though reactions vary." }, "formulation_difficulty": { "score": 2, "note": "Water-soluble and stable, best kept at about pH 5–7." }, "cost": { "score": 1, "note": "Inexpensive, widely available commodity raw material." }, "popularity": { "score": 5, "note": "A top-five searched skincare ingredient in 2024." } }, "pairs_well_with": [ "Hyaluronic acid", "Ceramides", "Panthenol", "Zinc PCA", "Retinol and retinal", "Vitamin C" ], "avoid_with": [ "Low-pH acids in the same formula (slowly converts to nicotinic acid)" ], "formats": [ "serum", "cream", "lotion", "toner", "gel", "mask" ], "categories": [ "skincare", "body", "suncare" ], "in_the_lab": { "solubility": "Water phase. Dissolves readily.", "ph_range": "5–7", "stability": "Avoid prolonged heating and keep the finished pH above 4, then track nicotinic acid through stability testing.", "packaging": "No special needs; standard pumps, tubes or jars.", "regulatory_au": "Listed on the Australian Inventory of Industrial Chemicals (AIIC) and not scheduled in the Poisons Standard. No EU restriction.", "claims_caution": "Use 'helps the appearance of' wording for tone, pores and oiliness. Claims to treat acne, rosacea or pigmentation disorders make the product a therapeutic good." }, "australian_note": "Widely stocked by Australian raw-material distributors, so lead times and cost are predictable.", "sources": [ "https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC8389214/", "https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/16029679/", "https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/12100180/", "https://www.law.go.kr/%ED%96%89%EC%A0%95%EA%B7%9C%EC%B9%99/%EA%B8%B0%EB%8A%A5%EC%84%B1%ED%99%94%EC%9E%A5%ED%92%88%EC%8B%AC%EC%82%AC%EC%97%90%EA%B4%80%ED%95%9C%EA%B7%9C%EC%A0%95", "https://www.mdpi.com/1420-3049/27/15/4774", "https://www.gov.cn/zhengce/content/2020-06/29/content_5522593.htm", "https://www.nmpa.gov.cn/directory/web/nmpa/images/1628750777458012079.doc" ], "use_level_pct": { "min": 2, "max": 5 }, "ph": { "min": 5, "max": 7 }, "solubility_tags": [ "water" ], "sensitivities": [ "low-ph" ], "packaging_icons": [ "pump-bottle", "tube", "jar" ], "regional": [ { "market": "Australia", "note": "Listed on the AIIC and not scheduled in the Poisons Standard, so Australia sets no strength limit. Local raw-material distributors stock it widely, so lead times and cost are predictable." }, { "market": "Korea", "note": "A pre-approved brightening ingredient at 2–5%, so a lotion, liquid, cream, solid or sheet-mask product in that range can be reported to MFDS as a functional cosmetic and claim it helps brighten skin." }, { "market": "Japan", "note": "Approved as a quasi-drug brightening active since 2007, so a claim that it suppresses melanin to prevent spots needs quasi-drug approval, not an ordinary cosmetic." }, { "market": "China", "note": "Brightening or spot-fading claims make it a special cosmetic, which needs NMPA registration and a human efficacy test at a designated lab before launch." } ] }, { "slug": "retinol", "name": "Retinol and retinal", "inci": "Retinol; Retinal", "aka": [ "Vitamin A", "Retinaldehyde", "Retinoids" ], "group": "skincare", "family": "Retinoid", "supplied_as": "liquid", "origin": "synthetic", "one_liner": "The best-known vitamin A ingredient for smoother-looking skin, used at low levels and introduced gradually.", "plain_explainer": "Retinol is a form of vitamin A that works gradually over weeks of regular use. It helps the appearance of fine lines, rough texture and uneven tone, so skin looks smoother. Retinal is a more potent relative, one conversion step closer to the active form.", "good_for": [ "Fine lines", "Rough texture", "Uneven tone", "Visible pores" ], "typical_use_level": "0.1–0.3% (retinol)", "use_level_note": "Retinol at 0.1–0.3% in night serums and creams, starting at 0.1% for new users; retinal is stronger and used at 0.05–0.1%.", "how_it_works": "In the skin, retinol is converted in two steps to retinoic acid, which is thought to speed up surface renewal and support collagen. Because the conversion is gradual, retinol is gentler than prescription retinoids but slower to show results.", "scores": { "evidence": { "score": 4, "note": "Controlled trials show visible improvement in fine lines." }, "gentleness": { "score": 2, "note": "Dryness, flaking and stinging are common at first, so start low." }, "formulation_difficulty": { "score": 4, "note": "Breaks down with oxygen, light and heat, so it needs protection." }, "cost": { "score": 3, "note": "Stabilised grades and airless packs add cost, as does retinal." }, "popularity": { "score": 5, "note": "The second most-searched skincare ingredient of 2024." } }, "pairs_well_with": [ "Niacinamide", "Ceramides", "Panthenol", "Hyaluronic acid", "Peptides" ], "avoid_with": [ "Strong AHAs, BHAs or low-pH vitamin C in the same product (adds irritation)", "Benzoyl peroxide in the same product (can oxidise it)" ], "formats": [ "serum", "cream", "eye-cream", "face-oil" ], "categories": [ "skincare", "body" ], "in_the_lab": { "solubility": "Oil phase. Encapsulated grades disperse in the water phase instead.", "ph_range": "5–7", "stability": "Add below 40 °C, ideally under nitrogen, with BHT or tocopherol and a chelator. Encapsulated grades also help. Build in overage and confirm content by HPLC through stability testing.", "packaging": "Airless pumps or aluminium tubes; opaque, with minimal headspace.", "regulatory_au": "Retinol is on the AIIC, and vitamin A above 1% in topical products is Schedule 4, with AICIS (June 2026) recommending a lower cosmetic limit but no scheduling change yet. Since 27 June 2026, retinal needs an AICIS assessment certificate for any consumer use.", "claims_caution": "Keep to cosmetic wording such as 'helps the appearance of fine lines', avoid 'repairs sun damage' or 'safe in pregnancy', and advise daytime sunscreen. EU exports containing retinol must carry 'Contains Vitamin A. Consider your daily intake before use'." }, "australian_note": "Australian limits are likely to tighten, so the EU limits (0.3% retinol equivalent, or 0.05% in body lotion) are a sensible ceiling for new products.", "sources": [ "https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC2699641/", "https://www.industrialchemicals.gov.au/sites/default/files/2026-06/EVA00187%20-%20Evaluation%20statement%20-%2026%20June%202026.pdf", "https://www.industrialchemicals.gov.au/news-and-notices/retinal-introductions-consumer-use-now-need-assessment-aicis", "https://eur-lex.europa.eu/eli/reg/2024/996/oj", "https://www.legislation.gov.au/F2026L01327/latest/text", "https://www.canada.ca/en/health-canada/services/consumer-product-safety/cosmetics/cosmetic-ingredient-hotlist-prohibited-restricted-ingredients/hotlist.html" ], "use_level_pct": { "min": 0.1, "max": 0.3 }, "ph": { "min": 5, "max": 7 }, "solubility_tags": [ "oil", "water-dispersible" ], "sensitivities": [ "light", "heat", "oxygen", "metal-ions" ], "packaging_icons": [ "airless-pump", "tube" ], "regional": [ { "market": "Australia", "note": "Topical vitamin A is unscheduled at 1% or less and Schedule 4 above. AICIS recommended a lower cosmetic cap in June 2026, and retinal now needs an AICIS assessment certificate for any consumer use." }, { "market": "European Union", "note": "Retinol, retinyl acetate and retinyl palmitate are capped at 0.3% retinol equivalent, or 0.05% in body lotion, with the label line 'Contains Vitamin A. Consider your daily intake before use'. New products have had to comply since 1 November 2025, and all stock must comply by 1 May 2027." }, { "market": "Canada", "note": "Retinol and its esters are capped at 1.0% retinol equivalent, or 0.2% in full-body leave-on products. Retinal is capped at 0.05%, or 0.01% in full-body leave-on products." }, { "market": "Climate", "note": "Heat, light and air break retinol down, so for hot markets and tropical shipping use airless opaque packs and confirm retinol content after storage at 40 °C." } ] }, { "slug": "vitamin-c", "name": "Vitamin C", "inci": "Ascorbic Acid; 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid; Ascorbyl Glucoside; Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate; Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate", "aka": [ "L-ascorbic acid", "Ethyl ascorbic acid", "Ascorbyl glucoside", "Sodium ascorbyl phosphate", "Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate" ], "group": "skincare", "family": "Vitamin", "supplied_as": "liquid", "origin": "synthetic", "one_liner": "A brightening antioxidant that helps skin look more radiant and even, available in pure and stable forms.", "plain_explainer": "Vitamin C is an antioxidant that helps the appearance of dullness and uneven tone, so skin looks brighter. It comes as pure L-ascorbic acid, the most researched form, or as gentler derivatives.", "good_for": [ "Dull skin", "Uneven tone", "Dark spots", "Mature skin" ], "typical_use_level": "10–20% (L-ascorbic acid); 1–5% (derivatives)", "use_level_note": "L-ascorbic acid at 10–20% in low-pH serums; derivatives such as ascorbyl glucoside at 1–5%, and up to 10% in targeted serums.", "how_it_works": "As an antioxidant, vitamin C helps neutralise free radicals created by UV and pollution, and skin uses it in making collagen. It is also thought to slow pigment production, so marks can look lighter over time. Most derivatives must be converted to vitamin C in the skin, and evidence that they work as well is more limited.", "scores": { "evidence": { "score": 4, "note": "Good evidence for L-ascorbic acid at 10–20%, less for derivatives." }, "gentleness": { "score": 3, "note": "Low-pH L-ascorbic acid can sting, while derivatives are gentler." }, "formulation_difficulty": { "score": 4, "note": "L-ascorbic acid oxidises quickly in water-based formulas." }, "cost": { "score": 3, "note": "Ascorbic acid is cheap, but stabilising systems and packs add cost." }, "popularity": { "score": 5, "note": "Consistently among the five most-searched skincare ingredients." } }, "pairs_well_with": [ "Vitamin E", "Ferulic acid", "Daily sunscreen", "Hyaluronic acid", "Niacinamide" ], "avoid_with": [ "Copper peptides in the same product (copper speeds oxidation)" ], "formats": [ "serum", "cream", "lotion", "mask" ], "categories": [ "skincare", "body" ], "in_the_lab": { "solubility": "Water phase for L-ascorbic acid, sodium ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl glucoside and ethyl ascorbic acid. Oil phase for tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate.", "ph_range": "L-ascorbic acid 2.5–3.5; ethyl ascorbic acid 4–5.5; ascorbyl glucoside 5–7; SAP 6.5–7", "stability": "Use a low-water or anhydrous base for L-ascorbic acid, with ferulic acid, vitamin E and nitrogen flushing, as it turns yellow then brown in water. Chelate trace iron and copper from water and raw materials. Add derivatives in the cool-down phase.", "packaging": "Airless or amber/opaque glass, small fill sizes; anhydrous powders in sachets or sealed jars.", "regulatory_au": "Ascorbic acid and the main derivatives are on the AIIC, and some derivative listings carry AICIS information obligations. It is not scheduled and has no EU restriction.", "claims_caution": "'Brightens' and 'helps the appearance of dark spots' are cosmetic. Avoid 'treats melasma' or 'prevents sun damage', as vitamin C is not a sunscreen." }, "australian_note": "Kakadu plum extract offers a native alternative, but it delivers far less vitamin C than dosed ascorbic acid or a derivative.", "sources": [ "https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC5605218/", "https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/11207686/", "https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/23174055/", "https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/16185284/", "https://services.industrialchemicals.gov.au/search-inventory/", "https://www.law.go.kr/%ED%96%89%EC%A0%95%EA%B7%9C%EC%B9%99/%EA%B8%B0%EB%8A%A5%EC%84%B1%ED%99%94%EC%9E%A5%ED%92%88%EC%8B%AC%EC%82%AC%EC%97%90%EA%B4%80%ED%95%9C%EA%B7%9C%EC%A0%95", "https://www.gov.cn/zhengce/content/2020-06/29/content_5522593.htm", "https://www.nmpa.gov.cn/directory/web/nmpa/images/1628750777458012079.doc" ], "use_level_pct": { "min": 1, "max": 20 }, "ph": { "min": 2.5, "max": 7 }, "solubility_tags": [ "water", "oil" ], "sensitivities": [ "oxygen", "water", "light", "metal-ions" ], "packaging_icons": [ "dropper-bottle", "airless-pump", "sachet" ], "regional": [ { "market": "Australia", "note": "Not scheduled, with no Australian limit. The AIIC listing for ethyl ascorbic acid requires the importer to tell AICIS within 28 days if it will be used above 10%." }, { "market": "Korea", "note": "Pre-approved brightening levels are 2% ascorbyl glucoside, 2% ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate (tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate), 3% magnesium ascorbyl phosphate and 1–2% ethyl ascorbyl ether, for lotion, liquid, cream, solid or sheet-mask products reported to MFDS as functional cosmetics." }, { "market": "China", "note": "Brightening or spot-fading claims make it a special cosmetic, which needs NMPA registration and a human efficacy test at a designated lab before launch." }, { "market": "Climate", "note": "L-ascorbic acid browns faster in heat, so for hot markets and tropical shipping use airless opaque packs, small fills or a heat-stable derivative such as ascorbyl glucoside." } ] }, { "slug": "hyaluronic-acid", "name": "Hyaluronic acid", "inci": "Sodium Hyaluronate", "aka": [ "HA", "Hyaluronan" ], "group": "skincare", "family": "Humectant", "supplied_as": "liquid", "origin": "biotech/fermentation", "one_liner": "A moisture-binding molecule that helps skin look plumper and feel hydrated, suited to nearly everyone.", "plain_explainer": "Hyaluronic acid is a sugar-based molecule the skin makes naturally, and for cosmetics it is now mostly made by fermentation. It holds water at the skin's surface, so skin feels softer and fine dehydration lines look less visible. It is gentle and works in almost any water-based product.", "good_for": [ "Dehydrated skin", "Fine lines", "Plumper skin", "Sensitive skin" ], "typical_use_level": "0.1–1%", "use_level_note": "0.1–0.5% in most moisturisers and serums; dedicated hydrating serums use 1–2%.", "how_it_works": "Hyaluronic acid attracts and holds water. Larger molecules stay on the surface as a light, moisture-holding film, while smaller fragments reach the upper layers of the skin. Blending sizes gives both instant smoothness and longer-lasting hydration.", "scores": { "evidence": { "score": 4, "note": "Consistent measured hydration data, but fewer trials on wrinkles." }, "gentleness": { "score": 5, "note": "Very well tolerated and suits even sensitive skin." }, "formulation_difficulty": { "score": 2, "note": "Easy in water phases, though salts, low pH and heat thin it." }, "cost": { "score": 2, "note": "Low cost at typical levels, though cross-linked grades cost more." }, "popularity": { "score": 5, "note": "A top-three searched skincare ingredient in 2024." } }, "pairs_well_with": [ "Glycerin", "Niacinamide", "Panthenol", "Ceramides", "Vitamin C" ], "avoid_with": [ "High-salt or very low-pH bases (thin the gel)", "High doses of high-weight grades (tacky feel, pilling under makeup)" ], "formats": [ "serum", "toner", "cream", "gel", "gel-cream", "sheet-mask", "mist", "eye-cream" ], "categories": [ "skincare", "body", "suncare", "hair" ], "in_the_lab": { "solubility": "Water phase. It hydrates slowly, so pre-disperse it in glycerin or sprinkle it into the vortex.", "ph_range": "5–7", "stability": "Disperse with low shear and add low-weight grades in cool-down. Keep it away from prolonged heat, strong acids or bases and oxidisers, which break it down.", "packaging": "No special needs.", "regulatory_au": "Hyaluronic acid and sodium hyaluronate are on the AIIC, with no EU restriction. The Poisons Standard schedules hyaluronic acid only for injection or implantation, not for topical cosmetics.", "claims_caution": "Hydration and 'plumper-looking' claims are cosmetic, but avoid comparisons with injectable fillers or 'fills wrinkles'. Vegan or Halal claims need the supplier's certificate for each grade." }, "australian_note": "", "sources": [ "https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC8347214/", "https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/22052267/", "https://www.legislation.gov.au/F2026L01327/latest/text", "https://bpjph.halal.go.id/main/read/penyesuaian-penahapan-kewajiban-sertifikasi-halal-diatur-dalam-pp-40-tahun-2026-begini-rinciannya" ], "use_level_pct": { "min": 0.1, "max": 1 }, "ph": { "min": 5, "max": 7 }, "solubility_tags": [ "water" ], "sensitivities": [ "heat", "low-ph", "high-ph" ], "packaging_icons": [ "dropper-bottle", "pump-bottle", "spray-bottle" ], "regional": [ { "market": "Australia", "note": "Unscheduled for topical use at any strength; the Poisons Standard lists hyaluronic acid in Schedule 4 only for injection or implantation, such as dermal fillers." }, { "market": "ASEAN", "note": "Indonesia requires halal certification for cosmetics by 17 October 2028, so specify fermentation-derived hyaluronic acid with a halal certificate rather than rooster-comb material." } ] }, { "slug": "salicylic-acid", "name": "Salicylic acid", "inci": "Salicylic Acid", "aka": [ "BHA", "Beta hydroxy acid" ], "group": "skincare", "family": "Acid", "supplied_as": "powder", "origin": "synthetic", "one_liner": "An oil-loving exfoliating acid that helps pores look clearer and oily, blemish-prone skin look smoother.", "plain_explainer": "Salicylic acid is a beta hydroxy acid that mixes with oil, so it works within pores as well as on the surface. It helps clear the build-up of oil and dull surface skin that makes pores look congested. It suits oily and blemish-prone skin and is common in cleansers, toners and spot products.", "good_for": [ "Blackheads", "Visible pores", "Oily skin", "Blemish-prone skin", "Flaky scalp" ], "typical_use_level": "0.5–2%", "use_level_note": "0.5–2% in leave-on blemish serums, toners and cleansers; rinse-off shampoos and scalp scrubs use up to 3%.", "how_it_works": "Salicylic acid is thought to loosen the bonds between surface skin cells so they shed more evenly, including along the pore lining. It works best in an acidic formula, where more of it is in its active, un-ionised form.", "scores": { "evidence": { "score": 4, "note": "Good trial data for the look of blackheads and texture." }, "gentleness": { "score": 3, "note": "Can dry or sting, especially when layered with other acids." }, "formulation_difficulty": { "score": 3, "note": "Poorly soluble in water and needs glycols or alcohol to dissolve." }, "cost": { "score": 1, "note": "Inexpensive commodity raw material." }, "popularity": { "score": 5, "note": "The most-searched skincare ingredient in 2024 Google search data." } }, "pairs_well_with": [ "Niacinamide", "Zinc PCA", "Centella asiatica", "Panthenol", "Lactic acid", "Piroctone olamine" ], "avoid_with": [ "Retinoids or strong AHAs in the same product (adds irritation)", "High-pH bases (mostly ionised as salicylate; check exfoliation in the finished formula)" ], "formats": [ "cleanser", "foaming-cleanser", "toner", "serum", "gel", "clay-mask", "body-wash", "body-serum", "body-lotion", "shampoo", "scalp-scrub", "scalp-serum" ], "categories": [ "skincare", "body", "hair", "haircare" ], "in_the_lab": { "solubility": "Pre-dissolve in ethanol, propanediol, butylene glycol or a compatible ester, since only about 0.2% dissolves in water.", "ph_range": "3–4 (pKa about 3)", "stability": "Run freeze–thaw cycles, since it can recrystallise in the cold or if solvent evaporates. Include a chelator to stop iron discolouring it.", "packaging": "Avoid uncoated metal; standard plastics are fine.", "regulatory_au": "Listed on the AIIC, and Schedule 3 in the Poisons Standard applies only above 40% for dermal use. Cosmetic anti-acne products must contain no Schedule 2, 3, 4 or 8 substances and may only claim to control or prevent acne through cleansing, moisturising, exfoliating or drying the skin.", "claims_caution": "'Helps unclog pores' and 'helps prevent blemishes by exfoliating' are cosmetic, while 'treats', 'stops' or 'heals' acne makes it a therapeutic good. Willow bark extract contains salicin rather than salicylic acid, so avoid calling it 'natural BHA'." }, "australian_note": "", "sources": [ "https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC4554394/", "https://eur-lex.europa.eu/eli/reg/2019/1966/oj", "https://www.industrialchemicals.gov.au/sites/default/files/2022-11/Anti-dandruff%20anti-acne%20explainer.pdf", "https://www.legislation.gov.au/F2026L01327/latest/text", "https://www.legislation.gov.au/F2018L01350/latest/text", "https://www.legislation.gov.au/F2026L00633/asmade/text", "https://eur-lex.europa.eu/eli/reg/2021/850/oj", "https://www.ecfr.gov/current/title-21/chapter-I/subchapter-D/part-333/subpart-D/section-333.310", "https://www.mhlw.go.jp/file/06-Seisakujouhou-11120000-Iyakushokuhinkyoku/0000032704.pdf", "https://www.legislation.gov.uk/eur/2009/1223/annex/III" ], "use_level_pct": { "min": 0.5, "max": 2 }, "ph": { "min": 3, "max": 4 }, "solubility_tags": [ "alcohol", "oil" ], "sensitivities": [ "metal-ions", "high-ph" ], "packaging_icons": [ "pump-bottle", "bottle", "tube", "squeeze-bottle" ], "regional": [ { "market": "Australia", "note": "Schedule 3 only above 40% for skin use. A cosmetic anti-acne product may only claim to control or prevent acne through cleansing, moisturising, exfoliating or drying the skin, and must contain no Schedule 2, 3, 4 or 8 substance." }, { "market": "European Union", "note": "As an active (not a preservative), capped at 2% in most products, 3% in rinse-off hair care and 0.5% in body lotion, eye shadow, mascara, eyeliner, lipstick and roll-on deodorant; banned in inhalable sprays, oral products and products for children under 3. The UK applies the same limits." }, { "market": "United States", "note": "Any acne claim makes it an OTC drug, allowed at 0.5–2% with a Drug Facts label; without acne claims it can be sold as a cosmetic exfoliant." }, { "market": "Japan", "note": "Ordinary cosmetics are limited to 0.2% under the Standards for Cosmetics; acne products at higher levels must be approved as quasi-drugs." } ] }, { "slug": "glycolic-acid", "name": "Glycolic acid", "inci": "Glycolic Acid", "aka": [ "AHA", "Alpha hydroxy acid" ], "group": "skincare", "family": "Acid", "supplied_as": "liquid", "origin": "synthetic", "one_liner": "The smallest alpha hydroxy acid, used to smooth rough texture and bring back a brighter-looking surface.", "plain_explainer": "Glycolic acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) that lifts away the dull, built-up layer on the skin's surface. Regular use helps skin look smoother, brighter and more even.", "good_for": [ "Rough texture", "Dull skin", "Uneven tone", "Fine lines" ], "typical_use_level": "5–10%", "use_level_note": "5–10% at pH 3.5–4 for leave-on toners and serums; stronger or lower-pH peels belong in salon-only products.", "how_it_works": "Glycolic acid weakens the bonds between dead surface cells so they shed evenly. Its small size lets it penetrate quickly, which makes it effective but also more likely to sting. With regular use it also helps skin hold more moisture.", "scores": { "evidence": { "score": 4, "note": "Well studied in peels and daily products for texture and tone." }, "gentleness": { "score": 2, "note": "Tingling and redness are common, and it increases sun sensitivity." }, "formulation_difficulty": { "score": 3, "note": "Needs tight pH control and acid-resistant packaging." }, "cost": { "score": 1, "note": "Inexpensive commodity raw material." }, "popularity": { "score": 4, "note": "Searches rose sharply in 2024 and kept trending into 2025." } }, "pairs_well_with": [ "Hyaluronic acid", "Panthenol", "Niacinamide", "Daily sunscreen" ], "avoid_with": [ "Retinoids or other strong acids in the same step (adds irritation)", "Very sensitive or compromised skin (more likely to sting)" ], "formats": [ "toner", "serum", "cleanser", "lotion", "body-lotion", "mask" ], "categories": [ "skincare", "body" ], "in_the_lab": { "solubility": "Water phase. Dissolves readily.", "ph_range": "3.5–4 (pKa 3.83)", "stability": "Partially neutralise with sodium hydroxide, ammonia or arginine to set the free-acid fraction, which determines strength. Check emulsion and thickener stability at low pH.", "packaging": "Acid-resistant plastics (PET, HDPE, PP); avoid uncoated metal.", "regulatory_au": "Listed on the AIIC with AICIS information obligations, and has no EU limit. Poisons Standard Schedule 6 applies in cosmetics unless the product is 5% or less, 20% or less at pH 3.5 or above, or salon-only with WHS labelling.", "claims_caution": "'Exfoliates' and 'smoother, brighter-looking skin' are cosmetic. Include sun-protection advice and avoid wording that implies a medical procedure." }, "australian_note": "", "sources": [ "https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC6017965/", "https://www.fda.gov/cosmetics/cosmetic-ingredients/alpha-hydroxy-acids", "https://www.legislation.gov.au/F2026L01327/latest/text", "https://file.go.gov.sg/annexes-of-the-asean-cosmetic-directive-withhighlights.pdf", "https://www.canada.ca/en/health-canada/services/consumer-product-safety/cosmetics/cosmetic-ingredient-hotlist-prohibited-restricted-ingredients/hotlist.html" ], "use_level_pct": { "min": 5, "max": 10 }, "ph": { "min": 3.5, "max": 4 }, "solubility_tags": [ "water" ], "sensitivities": [ "high-ph" ], "packaging_icons": [ "bottle", "pump-bottle", "tube" ], "regional": [ { "market": "Australia", "note": "Schedule 6 (Poison) in cosmetics unless it is 5% or less, 20% or less at pH 3.5 or above, or salon-only with WHS labelling; outside these, POISON labelling applies." }, { "market": "United States", "note": "No legal limit, but the CIR panel supports 10% or less at pH 3.5 or above for consumer use, and FDA recommends a 'Sunburn Alert' on AHA labels." }, { "market": "ASEAN", "note": "Skin products are capped at 10% at pH 3.5 or above, 20% at pH 3.0 or above for professional use, or 30% for use by qualified medical practitioners, and need a sunburn alert at 2.5% or more without sunscreen." }, { "market": "Canada", "note": "Above 3%, labels need set warnings including sunscreen advice; consumer products may reach 18% at pH 3.5 or above, while 18–30% or pH 3.0–3.5 is professional use only." } ] }, { "slug": "azelaic-acid", "name": "Azelaic acid", "inci": "Azelaic Acid", "aka": [ "AzA", "Nonanedioic acid", "Potassium azeloyl diglycinate (derivative)" ], "group": "skincare", "family": "Acid", "supplied_as": "powder", "origin": "synthetic", "one_liner": "A multi-tasking acid that helps blemish-prone and redness-prone skin look clearer and more even.", "plain_explainer": "Azelaic acid occurs naturally in grains such as wheat and barley and is produced commercially for skincare. At cosmetic strengths it helps the appearance of uneven tone, blemishes and visible redness. Skin that finds other acids too strong often tolerates it well.", "good_for": [ "Uneven tone", "Blemish-prone skin", "Redness", "Post-blemish marks", "Sensitive skin" ], "typical_use_level": "5–10%", "use_level_note": "5–10% in leave-on creams and gels; it barely dissolves in water, so it is milled fine and suspended.", "how_it_works": "Azelaic acid is thought to slow pigment production and help surface cells inside the pore shed normally, which keeps pores looking clear. Results build over two to three months.", "scores": { "evidence": { "score": 4, "note": "Strong data for 15–20% medicines, fewer at cosmetic strengths." }, "gentleness": { "score": 3, "note": "Brief tingling or itch is common at first and usually settles." }, "formulation_difficulty": { "score": 4, "note": "Poorly soluble, so most products are carefully milled suspensions." }, "cost": { "score": 2, "note": "Moderately priced raw material, though 10% loads add cost." }, "popularity": { "score": 4, "note": "Reported as 2025's top-trending skincare acid in Google searches." } }, "pairs_well_with": [ "Niacinamide", "Panthenol", "Centella asiatica", "Hyaluronic acid", "Daily sunscreen" ], "avoid_with": [ "Strong AHAs or retinoids in the same product (extra tingling)" ], "formats": [ "serum", "cream", "gel", "gel-cream" ], "categories": [ "skincare", "body" ], "in_the_lab": { "solubility": "Suspend as a micronised powder in the water phase, since only about 0.2% dissolves in water at room temperature. Hot glycols dissolve some, and the derivative potassium azeloyl diglycinate is water-soluble.", "ph_range": "4–5.5", "stability": "Use a suspending polymer and run freeze–thaw and centrifuge tests to catch crystal growth, grittiness and settling. The acid itself is chemically stable.", "packaging": "Tubes or airless pumps; standard plastics are fine.", "regulatory_au": "Listed on the AIIC, with no EU limit. Poisons Standard Schedule 2 applies in dermal therapeutic products, Schedule 4 in other therapeutic products and Schedule 5 otherwise, so cosmetics need Caution-schedule labelling with safety directions.", "claims_caution": "Say 'helps the appearance of redness and uneven tone'. Rosacea, acne-treatment or melasma claims make it a medicine (Schedule 2)." }, "australian_note": "Australia is unusual in scheduling cosmetic azelaic acid, so plan Caution labelling into pack artwork early.", "sources": [ "https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC11512533/", "https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/26355614/", "https://www.legislation.gov.au/F2026L01327/latest/text", "https://file.go.gov.sg/annexes-of-the-asean-cosmetic-directive-withhighlights.pdf", "https://www.canada.ca/en/health-canada/services/consumer-product-safety/cosmetics/cosmetic-ingredient-hotlist-prohibited-restricted-ingredients/hotlist.html", "https://hpr-rps.hres.ca/pdl-phu.php?lang=en", "https://dailymed.nlm.nih.gov/dailymed/drugInfo.cfm?setid=ebdfcaf7-b5d6-47e1-be87-ccaba4b97e75" ], "use_level_pct": { "min": 5, "max": 10 }, "ph": { "min": 4, "max": 5.5 }, "solubility_tags": [ "particulate", "water-dispersible" ], "sensitivities": [], "packaging_icons": [ "tube", "airless-pump" ], "regional": [ { "market": "Australia", "note": "Schedule 5 (Caution) as a cosmetic, so artwork needs the CAUTION heading, first-aid text and eye and skin contact directions; therapeutic skin products are Schedule 2." }, { "market": "ASEAN", "note": "Prohibited under Annex II of the ASEAN Cosmetic Directive, so it cannot be used in a cosmetic sold in any ASEAN country." }, { "market": "Canada", "note": "Capped at 14% in cosmetics, and on the Prescription Drug List, so acne or rosacea claims turn the product into a prescription drug." }, { "market": "United States", "note": "Its approved drug forms, a 15% gel, a 15% foam and a 20% cream, are prescription-only and it is not an OTC acne active, so a 10% cosmetic must avoid acne or rosacea claims." } ] }, { "slug": "tranexamic-acid", "name": "Tranexamic acid", "inci": "Tranexamic Acid", "aka": [ "TXA", "Cetyl tranexamate (derivative)" ], "group": "skincare", "family": "Amino acid derivative", "supplied_as": "powder", "origin": "synthetic", "one_liner": "A gentle tone-evening ingredient that helps stubborn dark marks and patchiness look less noticeable.", "plain_explainer": "Tranexamic acid is a lab-made relative of the amino acid lysine, now widely used in skincare. It helps the appearance of dark spots, patchy tone and post-blemish marks. It feels gentle on skin and pairs easily with other brightening ingredients.", "good_for": [ "Dark spots", "Uneven tone", "Post-blemish marks", "Sensitive skin" ], "typical_use_level": "2–3%", "use_level_note": "2–3% in serums and moisturisers for uneven tone; it is water-soluble and heat-stable, so it suits most bases.", "how_it_works": "Tranexamic acid is thought to quieten a UV-triggered signal, involving the enzyme plasmin, that prompts skin to make more pigment. This may help limit new patches and let existing marks fade as skin renews. In studies, results usually took 8–12 weeks.", "scores": { "evidence": { "score": 3, "note": "Small topical trials look encouraging but are less consistent." }, "gentleness": { "score": 4, "note": "Low irritation in topical studies and suits sensitive skin." }, "formulation_difficulty": { "score": 2, "note": "Water-soluble and stable across a broad pH, so simple to add." }, "cost": { "score": 2, "note": "Moderate raw-material cost at 2–3%." }, "popularity": { "score": 4, "note": "Among the most-searched brightening ingredients of 2024–25." } }, "pairs_well_with": [ "Niacinamide", "Vitamin C", "Azelaic acid", "Daily sunscreen" ], "avoid_with": [], "formats": [ "serum", "cream", "toner", "sheet-mask" ], "categories": [ "skincare", "body" ], "in_the_lab": { "solubility": "Water phase. Dissolves readily.", "ph_range": "4–7", "stability": "Add at any stage of the water phase, as it is heat- and light-stable with few known incompatibilities.", "packaging": "No special needs.", "regulatory_au": "Poisons Standard Schedule 4 applies except in dermal cosmetics at 3% or less, and there is no EU limit. It was not on the public AIIC download in June 2026, so the importer must categorise its introduction under AICIS.", "claims_caution": "'Helps the appearance of dark spots' is cosmetic. Melasma claims are therapeutic, and marketing should not refer to its medical uses." }, "australian_note": "", "sources": [ "https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/27135282/", "https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC10810386/", "https://www.legislation.gov.au/F2026L01327/latest/text", "https://services.industrialchemicals.gov.au/search-inventory/", "https://file.go.gov.sg/annexes-of-the-asean-cosmetic-directive-withhighlights.pdf", "https://www.mdpi.com/1420-3049/27/15/4774", "https://hpr-rps.hres.ca/pdl-phu.php?lang=en", "https://recalls-rappels.canada.ca/en/alert-recall/unauthorized-yunnan-baiyao-toothpaste-being-recalled-linkglobal-food-inc-because-it" ], "use_level_pct": { "min": 2, "max": 3 }, "ph": { "min": 4, "max": 7 }, "solubility_tags": [ "water" ], "sensitivities": [], "packaging_icons": [ "dropper-bottle", "pump-bottle", "sheet-sachet" ], "regional": [ { "market": "Australia", "note": "Schedule 4 except in skin cosmetics at 3% or less, so 5% overseas formulas cannot be sold here as cosmetics. It is not on the public AIIC, so the importer must categorise it." }, { "market": "ASEAN", "note": "Permitted in skin products at up to 3.0%, but not in products intended to contact mucous membranes." }, { "market": "Japan", "note": "Approved only as a quasi-drug brightening active (since 2002), so it cannot go in an ordinary cosmetic; the product must be approved as a quasi-drug." }, { "market": "Canada", "note": "On the Prescription Drug List, and a toothpaste labelled to contain it was recalled in 2019 as an unauthorised product, so get a classification decision before selling a cosmetic there." } ] }, { "slug": "ceramides", "name": "Ceramides", "inci": "Ceramide NP; Ceramide AP; Ceramide EOP", "aka": [ "Skin-identical lipids", "Ceramide 3 (old INCI name for ceramide NP)", "Phytosphingosine (precursor)" ], "group": "skincare", "family": "Lipid", "supplied_as": "liquid", "origin": "biotech/fermentation", "one_liner": "Skin-identical lipids that help dry or sensitive skin feel softer, smoother and more comfortable.", "plain_explainer": "Ceramides are fats found naturally in the skin's outermost layer, where they help keep it soft and supple. Adding them back, ideally with cholesterol and fatty acids, helps skin hold moisture and feel less tight. They suit dry, sensitive and mature skin and pair with almost anything.", "good_for": [ "Dry skin", "Dehydrated skin", "Sensitive skin", "Mature skin" ], "typical_use_level": "0.1–1% (pure); 1–5% (complexes)", "use_level_note": "Pure ceramides at 0.1–1%, or supplier complexes at 1–5%; dry-skin moisturisers use about 3–5% of a complex.", "how_it_works": "In the skin's outer layer, ceramides, cholesterol and free fatty acids stack into layers that slow water loss. Dry or older skin often has fewer ceramides. Topical ceramides, especially in a balanced lipid mix, are thought to help top up these layers so skin feels smoother and better hydrated.", "scores": { "evidence": { "score": 4, "note": "Good clinical support for ceramide creams as a whole." }, "gentleness": { "score": 5, "note": "Very well tolerated and suits sensitive and baby ranges." }, "formulation_difficulty": { "score": 4, "note": "High melting point and prone to crystallising if not handled well." }, "cost": { "score": 3, "note": "Costly per kilo but used at low levels, so unit cost is moderate." }, "popularity": { "score": 4, "note": "Core of the barrier-care trend and strong in new launches." } }, "pairs_well_with": [ "Cholesterol", "Fatty acids", "Niacinamide", "Panthenol", "Hyaluronic acid" ], "avoid_with": [ "Token doses well below the supplier's recommended level (too little to help)" ], "formats": [ "cream", "lotion", "serum", "balm", "cleanser" ], "categories": [ "skincare", "body", "baby" ], "in_the_lab": { "solubility": "Hot oil phase at about 80–90 °C, dissolved with fatty acids, cholesterol and polar esters, as it is poorly oil-soluble. Supplier pre-dispersions go into the water phase instead.", "ph_range": "5–7", "stability": "Cool with controlled stirring, since fast, uncontrolled cooling makes it recrystallise and turn gritty. Check under the microscope through stability testing.", "packaging": "No special needs.", "regulatory_au": "Ceramide NP (CAS 34354-88-6) is on the AIIC, but check other ceramides and supplier complexes component by component. It is not scheduled and has no EU restriction.", "claims_caution": "'Supports the skin barrier' and 'helps skin retain moisture' are cosmetic, but avoid 'treats eczema' or 'repairs damaged skin'. COSMOS or Halal claims need each grade's certification checked." }, "australian_note": "", "sources": [ "https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/24656726/", "https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/39113291/", "https://www.specialchem.com/cosmetics/product/evonik-sk-influx-v-mb", "https://services.industrialchemicals.gov.au/search-inventory/", "https://www.nmpa.gov.cn/directory/web/nmpa/images/1761641757076009036.xlsx", "https://www.nmpa.gov.cn/directory/web/nmpa/images/1628750777458012079.doc" ], "use_level_pct": { "min": 0.1, "max": 5 }, "ph": { "min": 5, "max": 7 }, "solubility_tags": [ "oil", "water-dispersible" ], "sensitivities": [], "packaging_icons": [ "jar", "tube", "pump-bottle" ], "regional": [ { "market": "Australia", "note": "Ceramide NP is AIIC-listed as assessed for cosmetics, but ceramide AP and EOP were not on the June 2026 public inventory, so check each ceramide in a supplier complex." }, { "market": "China", "note": "Ceramides NP, AP, EOP, NS and AS are all on the IECIC inventory, but 'repair' claims for barrier products need a human efficacy test before filing." } ] }, { "slug": "peptides", "name": "Peptides", "inci": "Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1; Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7; Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4; Copper Tripeptide-1; Acetyl Hexapeptide-8", "aka": [ "Matrixyl", "Copper peptides (GHK-Cu)", "Argireline", "Signal peptides" ], "group": "skincare", "family": "Peptide", "supplied_as": "liquid", "origin": "synthetic", "one_liner": "Short chains of amino acids that act as messengers, helping skin look firmer and smoother over time.", "plain_explainer": "Peptides are short chains of amino acids, the building blocks of proteins. Different peptides are designed to help the appearance of fine lines, firmness or tired-looking skin. They are gentle and fit most routines, but results depend heavily on which peptide is used and at what dose.", "good_for": [ "Fine lines", "Firmness", "Mature skin", "Sensitive skin" ], "typical_use_level": "1–5% of supplier blend", "use_level_note": "Supplier blends at 1–5%, such as Matrixyl 3000 at 3%, leave the peptide itself at parts per million; copper tripeptide-1 is used at 0.05–1%.", "how_it_works": "Signal peptides such as palmitoyl tripeptide-1 mimic fragments of collagen and are thought to encourage skin to make more of its supporting proteins. Carrier peptides like copper tripeptide-1 deliver copper used in skin renewal. Neurotransmitter-type peptides such as acetyl hexapeptide-8 are designed to soften the look of expression lines.", "scores": { "evidence": { "score": 3, "note": "Some peptides have controlled trials, but many studies are small." }, "gentleness": { "score": 5, "note": "Very low irritation, suiting sensitive skin and eye products." }, "formulation_difficulty": { "score": 3, "note": "Sensitive to heat and pH, and copper peptides clash with acids." }, "cost": { "score": 4, "note": "Branded blends are costly per kilo and need the recommended dose." }, "popularity": { "score": 5, "note": "Searches grew through 2024–25 and peptides lead many new launches." } }, "pairs_well_with": [ "Hyaluronic acid", "Niacinamide", "Ceramides", "Retinol and retinal" ], "avoid_with": [ "Vitamin C with copper peptides (copper speeds oxidation)", "Strong acids or oxidisers (peptides are pH-sensitive)" ], "formats": [ "serum", "cream", "eye-cream", "sheet-mask" ], "categories": [ "skincare", "body", "hair" ], "in_the_lab": { "solubility": "Water phase for most supplier solutions, which are water- or glycol-based. Palmitoylated peptides may need glycols or oil-compatible carriers.", "ph_range": "5–7 (check each supplier sheet)", "stability": "Add below 40 °C in cool-down. With copper peptides, leave out chelators such as EDTA and reducing agents, and allow for a blue tint.", "packaging": "Airless preferred; protect from heat.", "regulatory_au": "Palmitoyl tripeptide-1 and palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 are on the AIIC, but copper tripeptide-1, acetyl hexapeptide-8 and palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 were not on the public June 2026 download, so confirm AICIS categorisation. Copper compounds are scheduled only above 5%, and there is no EU restriction.", "claims_caution": "Supplier lab data cannot be presented as finished-product results. Avoid 'Botox-like', 'rebuilds collagen' and 'heals' wording." }, "australian_note": "Peptide raw materials are imported, so ask suppliers early for AICIS categorisation details.", "sources": [ "https://www.mdpi.com/2079-9284/4/2/16", "https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/19570099/", "https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC6073405/", "https://services.industrialchemicals.gov.au/search-inventory/", "https://www.fda.gov/cosmetics/cosmetic-products/wrinkle-treatments-and-other-anti-aging-products" ], "use_level_pct": { "min": 1, "max": 5 }, "ph": { "min": 5, "max": 7 }, "solubility_tags": [ "water", "oil-dispersible" ], "sensitivities": [ "heat", "low-ph" ], "packaging_icons": [ "airless-pump", "dropper-bottle", "tube" ], "regional": [ { "market": "Australia", "note": "AIIC listings limit palmitoyl tripeptide-1 to 0.002% and palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 to 0.0005% in skin cosmetics, not for use in the eye; other peptides need AICIS categorisation." }, { "market": "United States", "note": "FDA treats claims that a product removes wrinkles or increases collagen production as drug claims, so peptide marketing must stay with 'helps the appearance of' wording." } ] }, { "slug": "centella-asiatica", "name": "Centella asiatica", "inci": "Centella Asiatica Extract; Madecassoside; Asiaticoside", "aka": [ "Cica", "Gotu kola", "Tiger grass" ], "group": "skincare", "family": "Botanical", "supplied_as": "liquid", "origin": "plant-derived", "one_liner": "A soothing plant extract, known as cica, that helps stressed or easily reddened skin feel calmer.", "plain_explainer": "Centella asiatica is a leafy plant with a long history in Asian traditional practice, and the hero of the 'cica' trend from Korean skincare. Its extracts and purified compounds, such as madecassoside, help skin feel calmer, more comfortable and well moisturised. It suits sensitive, easily reddened and blemish-prone skin.", "good_for": [ "Sensitive skin", "Redness", "Blemish-prone skin", "Sun-exposed skin" ], "typical_use_level": "0.1–5% (extracts); 0.1–1% (madecassoside)", "use_level_note": "Extracts at 0.1–5% and madecassoside at 0.1–1%; extract strength varies by supplier, so set the level from the data sheet.", "how_it_works": "Centella contains triterpenes, including madecassoside, asiaticoside and their acids, that supported collagen and calmed stress signals in skin cells in laboratory studies. Purified triterpenes behave more consistently than whole-plant extracts.", "scores": { "evidence": { "score": 3, "note": "Strong lab data, but cosmetic trials often combine other actives." }, "gentleness": { "score": 5, "note": "Very well tolerated, and contact allergy is rare." }, "formulation_difficulty": { "score": 2, "note": "Extracts are easy water- or glycol-phase additions." }, "cost": { "score": 2, "note": "Extracts are inexpensive, but purified madecassoside costs more." }, "popularity": { "score": 4, "note": "'Cica' remains strong in search and in K-beauty-led launches." } }, "pairs_well_with": [ "Panthenol", "Ceramides", "Niacinamide", "Hyaluronic acid", "Salicylic acid" ], "avoid_with": [], "formats": [ "cream", "gel-cream", "serum", "toner", "sheet-mask", "balm", "mist" ], "categories": [ "skincare", "body", "baby", "suncare" ], "in_the_lab": { "solubility": "Water phase for water or glycol extracts and madecassoside. Asiaticoside and asiatic or madecassic acids need glycols or ethanol to dissolve.", "ph_range": "4.5–7", "stability": "Run colour and odour checks, especially in clear gels, as botanical extracts can darken or shift in odour. Add purified actives in cool-down.", "packaging": "No special needs; protect clear formats from light.", "regulatory_au": "Centella asiatica extract, listed as Hydrocotyle asiatica extract, is on the AIIC, but madecassoside and asiaticoside were not on the public June 2026 download, so confirm their categorisation. It is not scheduled and has no EU restriction.", "claims_caution": "'Soothes' and 'helps the appearance of redness' are cosmetic, while 'heals wounds', 'treats eczema' or 'anti-inflammatory' wording is therapeutic. Most cosmetic centella is grown in Madagascar and Asia, so provenance claims need traceability." }, "australian_note": "", "sources": [ "https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC3834700/", "https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC4852572/", "https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC3116297/", "https://services.industrialchemicals.gov.au/search-inventory/", "https://www.nmpa.gov.cn/directory/web/nmpa/images/1761641757076009036.xlsx", "https://www.nmpa.gov.cn/directory/web/nmpa/images/1628750777458012079.doc" ], "use_level_pct": { "min": 0.1, "max": 5 }, "ph": { "min": 4.5, "max": 7 }, "solubility_tags": [ "water", "alcohol" ], "sensitivities": [ "light" ], "packaging_icons": [ "jar", "pump-bottle", "sheet-sachet" ], "regional": [ { "market": "Australia", "note": "The extract is AIIC-listed (as Hydrocotyle asiatica extract) and unscheduled, but madecassoside and asiaticoside were not on the June 2026 public inventory, so confirm categorisation." }, { "market": "China", "note": "Centella extract, madecassoside and asiaticoside are IECIC-listed, but 'repair' claims need a human efficacy test and 'for sensitive skin' claims a human or consumer test." } ] }, { "slug": "panthenol", "name": "Panthenol", "inci": "Panthenol", "aka": [ "Provitamin B5", "Dexpanthenol", "D-panthenol" ], "group": "skincare", "family": "Vitamin", "supplied_as": "liquid", "origin": "synthetic", "one_liner": "A soothing provitamin that helps skin hold moisture and feel comfortable, in almost any product type.", "plain_explainer": "Panthenol is the provitamin form of vitamin B5 and a long-established moisturising ingredient. It draws in moisture and helps skin feel softer, smoother and more comfortable. It is gentle enough for sensitive and baby skin and appears across creams, serums and cleansers.", "good_for": [ "Dry skin", "Dehydrated skin", "Sensitive skin", "Baby skin", "Dry hair" ], "typical_use_level": "1–5%", "use_level_note": "1–5% in skincare, with everyday moisturisers at 1–2%; hair products use 0.1–0.5% in leave-ons and up to 5% in shampoos and rinse-off conditioners.", "how_it_works": "Panthenol is a humectant that attracts water into the upper layers of the skin. Once absorbed it is converted to pantothenic acid (vitamin B5), which is thought to help skin make its own moisture-holding lipids.", "scores": { "evidence": { "score": 4, "note": "Decades of use and trials show better hydration and barrier function at 1–5%." }, "gentleness": { "score": 5, "note": "Very well tolerated, though rare allergy has been reported." }, "formulation_difficulty": { "score": 1, "note": "Water-soluble and easy to add at about pH 4–7." }, "cost": { "score": 1, "note": "Inexpensive commodity raw material." }, "popularity": { "score": 4, "note": "Found in many soothing launches, including the 'B5' cream trend." } }, "pairs_well_with": [ "Niacinamide", "Ceramides", "Centella asiatica", "Hyaluronic acid", "Glycerin" ], "avoid_with": [ "Strongly acidic or alkaline bases (it hydrolyses)" ], "formats": [ "cream", "serum", "lotion", "gel", "cleanser", "balm", "mist", "styling-cream" ], "categories": [ "skincare", "body", "hair", "baby", "suncare" ], "in_the_lab": { "solubility": "Water phase. It also dissolves in ethanol and glycols.", "ph_range": "4–7", "stability": "Avoid prolonged heating above about 70 °C, which racemises it. Warm viscous D-panthenol gently to pour, or use easier-to-handle DL-panthenol powder.", "packaging": "No special needs.", "regulatory_au": "Panthenol (D and DL forms) is on the AIIC. It is not scheduled and has no EU restriction.", "claims_caution": "'Soothes', 'helps skin retain moisture' and 'supports the barrier' are cosmetic. Wound-healing, burn or nappy-rash treatment claims are therapeutic." }, "australian_note": "", "sources": [ "https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/28503966/", "https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/12113650/", "https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/27425824/", "https://services.industrialchemicals.gov.au/search-inventory/", "https://www.nmpa.gov.cn/directory/web/nmpa/images/1628750777458012079.doc" ], "use_level_pct": { "min": 1, "max": 5 }, "ph": { "min": 4, "max": 7 }, "solubility_tags": [ "water", "alcohol" ], "sensitivities": [ "heat", "low-ph", "high-ph" ], "packaging_icons": [ "jar", "tube", "pump-bottle" ], "regional": [ { "market": "Australia", "note": "Panthenol (D and DL forms) is AIIC-listed and not scheduled in the Poisons Standard, so Australia sets no strength limit." }, { "market": "China", "note": "'Repair' and 'nourishing' claims, common for panthenol products, need a human efficacy test before the product is filed; hair-only claims may instead be tested on hair tresses." } ] }, { "slug": "bakuchiol", "name": "Bakuchiol", "inci": "Bakuchiol", "aka": [ "Plant-based retinol alternative" ], "group": "skincare", "family": "Botanical", "supplied_as": "liquid", "origin": "plant-derived", "one_liner": "A plant-derived ingredient often chosen as a gentler alternative to retinol for smoother, more even-looking skin.", "plain_explainer": "Bakuchiol is purified from the seeds of the babchi plant (Psoralea corylifolia). It is not a form of vitamin A, but in laboratory and early clinical studies it helped the appearance of fine lines and uneven tone with less dryness than retinol. It suits people who find retinol too strong or prefer a plant-derived active.", "good_for": [ "Fine lines", "Uneven tone", "Sensitive skin" ], "typical_use_level": "0.5–1%", "use_level_note": "0.5–1% in serums and creams; 0.5% matches the main published trial, and higher levels add cost without clear benefit.", "how_it_works": "Bakuchiol has a different structure from retinol, yet in laboratory studies it produced a similar pattern of skin-renewal activity. It is also an antioxidant. Why it tends to feel gentler than retinol is not yet established.", "scores": { "evidence": { "score": 2, "note": "Small randomised trials, one against retinol, but larger independent studies are lacking." }, "gentleness": { "score": 4, "note": "Less scaling and stinging than retinol in a head-to-head trial; allergy is rare but has been reported." }, "formulation_difficulty": { "score": 2, "note": "Oil-soluble and fairly stable, but may yellow over time." }, "cost": { "score": 3, "note": "Costly per kilo, but low use levels keep unit cost moderate." }, "popularity": { "score": 3, "note": "Searches fell in 2024, yet it remains a known retinol alternative." } }, "pairs_well_with": [ "Retinol and retinal", "Niacinamide", "Squalane", "Ceramides", "Daily sunscreen" ], "avoid_with": [ "Free iron or copper ions (cause discolouration)", "Sodium, potassium or aluminium hydroxide (incompatible)" ], "formats": [ "serum", "cream", "face-oil", "eye-cream" ], "categories": [ "skincare" ], "in_the_lab": { "solubility": "Oil phase, or dissolve it in esters.", "ph_range": "4–6; keep the finished product below 6.5", "stability": "Add tocopherol and a chelator, and add it in the cool-down phase where possible, as it can discolour over time.", "packaging": "Opaque or airless preferred to limit discolouration.", "regulatory_au": "It was not on the public AIIC download in June 2026, so the importer must categorise its introduction under AICIS, and it is not scheduled. Furocoumarins (psoralens) are prohibited in EU cosmetics (Annex II), so specify a certified furocoumarin-free grade.", "claims_caution": "'Helps the appearance of fine lines' is cosmetic. Avoid calling it 'natural retinol' or a retinoid, and avoid 'pregnancy-safe' claims, which the evidence does not support." }, "australian_note": "Australian brands often market it to retinol-sensitive or pregnancy-conscious customers.", "sources": [ "https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/29947134/", "https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/24471735/", "https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/38564402/", "https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/30644106/", "https://eur-lex.europa.eu/legal-content/EN/TXT/?uri=CELEX:02009R1223-20260501", "https://www.nmpa.gov.cn/directory/web/nmpa/images/1761641757076009036.xlsx", "https://www.nmpa.gov.cn/directory/web/nmpa/images/MjAxNcTqtdoyNji6xbmruOa4vbz+LnBkZg==.pdf", "https://services.industrialchemicals.gov.au/search-inventory/" ], "use_level_pct": { "min": 0.5, "max": 1 }, "ph": { "min": 4, "max": 6 }, "solubility_tags": [ "oil" ], "sensitivities": [ "light", "oxygen", "metal-ions" ], "packaging_icons": [ "airless-pump", "dropper-bottle", "tube" ], "regional": [ { "market": "Australia", "note": "Not scheduled, but it was not on the June 2026 public AIIC, so the importer must categorise its introduction with AICIS before bringing it in." }, { "market": "European Union", "note": "Bakuchiol itself is unrestricted, but furocoumarins (psoralens) from the source seed are prohibited (Annex II), so specify a furocoumarin-free grade." }, { "market": "China", "note": "Since 19 August 2026 bakuchiol has been listed in the IECIC (Catalogue II), so a new-ingredient filing is no longer needed; check the listing's technical requirements. Its source plant Psoralea corylifolia remains prohibited, so seed extracts cannot be used." } ] }, { "slug": "squalane", "name": "Squalane", "inci": "Squalane", "aka": [ "Olive squalane", "Sugarcane-derived squalane", "Perhydrosqualene" ], "group": "skincare", "family": "Lipid", "supplied_as": "liquid", "origin": "plant-derived", "one_liner": "A lightweight, skin-friendly oil that softens and moisturises without feeling greasy, suited to most skin types.", "plain_explainer": "Squalane is a saturated oil made either by hydrogenating squalene, a lipid found in skin's own sebum and in olives, or from farnesene made by fermenting sugarcane sugar. It helps skin feel soft and smooth and stay moisturised without a heavy finish. It is a supporting ingredient rather than a targeted active, and suits dry, sensitive and combination skin.", "good_for": [ "Dry skin", "Sensitive skin", "Combination skin", "Rough texture" ], "typical_use_level": "2–10%", "use_level_note": "2–10% in creams and serums as a light emollient; single-ingredient face oils use it at up to 100%.", "how_it_works": "Squalane spreads easily and forms a thin, breathable film that slows water loss and fills gaps between surface skin cells, so skin feels smoother.", "scores": { "evidence": { "score": 3, "note": "Well-established emollient, but few trials of squalane alone." }, "gentleness": { "score": 5, "note": "Very well tolerated and suits sensitive skin and the eye area." }, "formulation_difficulty": { "score": 1, "note": "Easy oil-phase addition, stable and compatible with most systems." }, "cost": { "score": 2, "note": "Moderate cost, though plant and sugarcane grades cost more." }, "popularity": { "score": 3, "note": "Steady but modest search volume, and common as a hero emollient." } }, "pairs_well_with": [ "Retinol and retinal", "Bakuchiol", "Ceramides", "Hyaluronic acid", "Vitamin C" ], "avoid_with": [ "Substituting squalene for squalane (oxidises readily)" ], "formats": [ "face-oil", "serum", "cream", "lotion", "balm", "eye-cream" ], "categories": [ "skincare", "body", "hair", "baby" ], "in_the_lab": { "solubility": "Oil phase. Miscible with most cosmetic oils and esters.", "ph_range": "Not pH-dependent (oil phase)", "stability": "Add to the oil phase at any stage, as it is fully saturated and resists oxidation and heat.", "packaging": "No special needs.", "regulatory_au": "Squalane is on the AIIC, is not scheduled and has no EU restriction. The US CIR panel confirmed it safe as used in cosmetics in its 2023 re-review.", "claims_caution": "'Moisturises' and 'softens' are cosmetic. 'Non-comedogenic', 'vegan' or 'shark-free' claims need test data or documentation of the source, which may be olive, sugarcane or, rarely now, shark liver." }, "australian_note": "", "sources": [ "https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC6253993/", "https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/37752766/", "https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/22361190/", "https://services.industrialchemicals.gov.au/search-inventory/", "https://www.legislation.gov.au/F2026L01327/latest/text" ], "use_level_pct": { "min": 2, "max": 10 }, "ph": null, "solubility_tags": [ "oil" ], "sensitivities": [], "packaging_icons": [ "dropper-bottle", "pump-bottle", "jar" ], "regional": [ { "market": "Australia", "note": "AIIC-listed and not scheduled in the Poisons Standard, so Australia sets no strength limit, including for single-ingredient face oils." }, { "market": "United States", "note": "FDA sets no limit, and the CIR Expert Panel re-confirmed squalane and squalene as safe in cosmetics in its 2023 re-review." } ] }, { "slug": "lactic-acid", "name": "Lactic acid", "inci": "Lactic Acid", "aka": [ "AHA", "Alpha hydroxy acid", "L-lactic acid", "Sodium lactate (salt form)" ], "group": "skincare", "family": "Acid", "supplied_as": "liquid", "origin": "biotech/fermentation", "one_liner": "A gentler alpha hydroxy acid that smooths and brightens while also helping skin hold on to moisture.", "plain_explainer": "Lactic acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) made by fermenting sugars, and part of the skin's own natural moisturising factor. It lifts away dull surface build-up for smoother, brighter-looking skin, and usually feels gentler than glycolic acid.", "good_for": [ "Dull skin", "Rough texture", "Dry skin", "Uneven tone", "Fine lines" ], "typical_use_level": "5–10%", "use_level_note": "5–10% at pH 3.5–4 for exfoliating serums; moisturisers use 1–5% at a higher pH, where it acts mainly as a humectant.", "how_it_works": "Lactic acid weakens the bonds between dead surface cells so they shed evenly. It is generally reported to sting less than glycolic acid, although skin absorption tests show the two penetrate to a similar extent. It also attracts water, and in studies it improved smoothness and the look of fine lines.", "scores": { "evidence": { "score": 4, "note": "Controlled studies show smoother skin and better hydration." }, "gentleness": { "score": 3, "note": "Usually milder than glycolic acid but increases sun sensitivity." }, "formulation_difficulty": { "score": 2, "note": "Water-soluble, but needs pH control and acid-resistant packaging." }, "cost": { "score": 1, "note": "Inexpensive commodity raw material." }, "popularity": { "score": 4, "note": "Steady demand and common in gentle exfoliating launches." } }, "pairs_well_with": [ "Hyaluronic acid", "Panthenol", "Ceramides", "Niacinamide", "Daily sunscreen", "Urea", "Glycerin" ], "avoid_with": [ "Retinoids or other strong acids in the same step (adds irritation)", "Very sensitive or compromised skin (can sting)", "Exfoliating products for babies and young children (not suited to young skin)", "Use straight after shaving or waxing (likely to sting)" ], "formats": [ "toner", "serum", "cleanser", "lotion", "cream", "mask", "body-lotion", "body-serum", "body-wash", "hand-cream", "foot-cream" ], "categories": [ "skincare", "body" ], "in_the_lab": { "solubility": "Water phase. Supplied as an 80–90% solution, so adjust the dose for active content.", "ph_range": "3.5–4 for exfoliation; 4.5–6 for hydration (pKa 3.86)", "stability": "Set strength through pH and the free-acid fraction, and check emulsion and thickener stability at low pH.", "packaging": "Acid-resistant plastics (PET, HDPE, PP); avoid uncoated metal.", "regulatory_au": "Lactic acid, including the L-form, and sodium lactate are on the AIIC. It is not scheduled in the Poisons Standard, unlike glycolic acid, and has no EU limit.", "claims_caution": "'Exfoliates', 'smoother, brighter-looking skin' and 'hydrates' are cosmetic. Include sun-protection advice and avoid wording that implies a medical procedure." }, "australian_note": "", "sources": [ "https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/8784274/", "https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC6017965/", "https://www.fda.gov/cosmetics/cosmetic-ingredients/alpha-hydroxy-acids", "https://www.tga.gov.au/sites/default/files/2024-06/cosmetics-therapeutic-goods-guidance-for-advertisers-suppliers.pdf", "https://file.go.gov.sg/annexes-of-the-asean-cosmetic-directive-withhighlights.pdf", "https://www.legislation.gov.au/F2026L01327/latest/text" ], "use_level_pct": { "min": 5, "max": 10 }, "ph": { "min": 3.5, "max": 6 }, "solubility_tags": [ "water" ], "sensitivities": [ "high-ph" ], "packaging_icons": [ "bottle", "pump-bottle", "tube", "squeeze-bottle" ], "regional": [ { "market": "Australia", "note": "Not scheduled in the Poisons Standard, unlike glycolic acid, so Australia sets no strength or pH limit for cosmetic use." }, { "market": "United States", "note": "No legal limit, but the CIR panel supports 10% or less at pH 3.5 or above for consumer use, and FDA recommends a 'Sunburn Alert' on AHA labels." }, { "market": "ASEAN", "note": "Treated like glycolic acid: up to 10% at pH 3.5 or above for general use, 20% at pH 3.0 or above for professional use, and a sunburn alert at 2.5% or more without sunscreen." }, { "market": "Climate", "note": "AHAs leave skin more prone to sunburn for about a week after use, which matters in high-UV markets such as Australia, so add daily sunscreen directions to the pack." } ] }, { "slug": "zinc-oxide", "name": "Zinc oxide", "inci": "Zinc Oxide", "aka": [ "ZnO", "Mineral filter", "Physical sunscreen (older term)" ], "group": "suncare", "family": "Mineral UV filter", "supplied_as": "liquid", "origin": "mineral", "one_liner": "A white mineral filter that covers UVB and long UVA rays, suited to sensitive skin and children.", "plain_explainer": "Zinc oxide is a fine white powder that sits on the skin and absorbs UV across UVB and UVA, including the long UVA rays many filters miss. It is the main filter in mineral sunscreens and the usual choice for babies, children and reactive skin. Higher levels can leave a white cast, so particle size and tint shape the finish.", "good_for": [ "Broad spectrum protection", "Long UVA protection", "Mineral sun protection", "Sensitive skin", "Baby skin" ], "typical_use_level": "15–25%", "use_level_note": "Alone, 15–25% can reach SPF 50+ with strong UVA cover. Alongside organic filters, 5–15% is common and adds long-UVA protection.", "how_it_works": "Tiny zinc oxide particles absorb UV energy and release it as a small amount of heat, and only a small share is reflected. Its absorption runs from UVB through to about 370–380 nm, so on its own it gives balanced UVA protection. Smaller particles look clearer on skin but cover slightly less long UVA.", "scores": { "evidence": { "score": 5, "note": "Decades of use, with protection measured in SPF and UVA tests." }, "gentleness": { "score": 5, "note": "Rarely irritates or sensitises the skin." }, "formulation_difficulty": { "score": 4, "note": "Dispersion, white cast and viscosity drift all need careful work." }, "cost": { "score": 3, "note": "Cheap per kilo, but high loadings and coated grades lift unit cost." }, "popularity": { "score": 5, "note": "Central to Australian mineral, kids' and sensitive-skin ranges." } }, "pairs_well_with": [ "Titanium dioxide", "Bemotrizinol", "Iron oxides", "Vitamin E" ], "avoid_with": [ "Acidic actives such as AHAs or ascorbic acid (zinc dissolves at low pH)", "Carbomer-only gels (zinc ions thin them)", "Avobenzone, with coated or uncoated grades (needs supporting stability data)" ], "formats": [ "cream", "lotion", "fluid", "stick", "balm" ], "categories": [ "suncare", "skincare", "baby", "body" ], "in_the_lab": { "solubility": "Disperse in the oil or water phase to suit the grade's coating, with a matched dispersant, as it is insoluble.", "ph_range": "6–8; avoid acidic systems.", "stability": "Use a coated grade, such as silica, alumina or silicone, and track agglomeration, viscosity rise and SPF drift across shelf life.", "packaging": "Tubes, pumps or sticks; no light protection needed. Avoid aerosols and loose powders with any grade, nano or standard (inhalation).", "regulatory_au": "Permitted sunscreen active with no maximum concentration (Permissible Ingredients Determination No. 3 2026), and particle size need not be declared. Primary sunscreens and moisturisers above SPF 15 are therapeutic goods, generally ARTG-listed (AUST L), tested to AS/NZS 2604 and labelled with approved names and set warnings.", "claims_caution": "Use only TGA-permitted indications, such as 'SPF 50+ broad spectrum very high protection', and skin-cancer, sunspot or solar keratosis claims need broad spectrum SPF 30 or more. 'Chemical-free' and 'physical block' are inaccurate, and 'non-nano' must match supplier particle data." }, "australian_note": "Many zinc-based products were withdrawn after the TGA's 2025 review of a shared base formula, so SPF results from a reliable, independent lab matter.", "sources": [ "https://www.legislation.gov.au/F2026L01382/asmade", "https://www.tga.gov.au/resources/publication/corporate-reports/literature-review-safety-titanium-dioxide-and-zinc-oxide-nanoparticles-sunscreens", "https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/26431814/", "https://www.tga.gov.au/resources/explore-topic/sunscreens/sunscreens-using-same-base-formulation-ultra-violette-lean-screen-spf-50-sunscreen", "https://www.tga.gov.au/sites/default/files/2025-08/understanding-regulation-therapeutic-sunscreens.pdf", "https://comcom.govt.nz/business/your-obligations-as-a-business/product-safety-standards/sunscreen", "https://eur-lex.europa.eu/legal-content/EN/TXT/?uri=CELEX:02009R1223-20260518", "https://www.fda.gov/drugs/understanding-over-counter-medicines/questions-and-answers-fdas-regulatory-actions-over-counter-sunscreen" ], "use_level_pct": { "min": 15, "max": 25 }, "ph": { "min": 6, "max": 8 }, "solubility_tags": [ "particulate", "oil-dispersible", "water-dispersible" ], "sensitivities": [ "low-ph" ], "packaging_icons": [ "tube", "pump-bottle", "stick" ], "regional": [ { "market": "Australia", "note": "Permitted in ARTG-listed sunscreens with no maximum strength, and labels need not state particle size. After 2025 recalls of zinc products sharing one base formula, independent SPF testing matters." }, { "market": "New Zealand", "note": "Sunscreens are cosmetics in New Zealand with no pre-market approval, but the Sunscreen (Product Safety Standard) Act 2022 makes AS/NZS 2604:2012 mandatory, whereas the TGA requires the 2021 edition." }, { "market": "European Union", "note": "Annex VI allows 25% in total across standard and nano grades. Neither may be used where it could be inhaled, such as aerosol sprays, and nano grades must be labelled '(nano)'." }, { "market": "United States", "note": "One of two long-standing filters the FDA has proposed as safe and effective (GRASE), at up to 25%; the FDA added bemotrizinol to the monograph in June 2026. Every US sunscreen is an OTC drug and must carry a Drug Facts label." } ] }, { "slug": "titanium-dioxide", "name": "Titanium dioxide", "inci": "Titanium Dioxide", "aka": [ "TiO2", "CI 77891 (when used as a colour)" ], "group": "suncare", "family": "Mineral UV filter", "supplied_as": "liquid", "origin": "mineral", "one_liner": "A mineral filter strong in UVB and short UVA, usually paired with zinc oxide in mineral sunscreens.", "plain_explainer": "Titanium dioxide is a white mineral powder that absorbs UVB and shorter UVA rays efficiently. It lifts SPF in mineral and hybrid sunscreens, while zinc oxide covers the longer UVA it misses. It is gentle on skin, though it can look white or slightly blue-grey at higher levels.", "good_for": [ "High SPF", "UVB protection", "Mineral sun protection", "Sensitive skin" ], "typical_use_level": "2–10%", "use_level_note": "2–10% adds UVB and short-UVA cover, usually alongside zinc oxide or organic filters. Higher levels raise SPF but also white cast.", "how_it_works": "Like zinc oxide, titanium dioxide particles mainly absorb UV and turn it into heat, with only a small share scattered. Smaller particles look more transparent but shift protection further towards UVB.", "scores": { "evidence": { "score": 5, "note": "Long track record, with its contribution measured in SPF testing." }, "gentleness": { "score": 5, "note": "Very low irritation and no significant uptake through intact skin." }, "formulation_difficulty": { "score": 4, "note": "Needs coated grades, good dispersion and control of white cast." }, "cost": { "score": 2, "note": "Inexpensive raw material, though dispersions cost more." }, "popularity": { "score": 3, "note": "Usually paired with zinc oxide, though some brands now go zinc-only." } }, "pairs_well_with": [ "Zinc oxide", "Iron oxides", "Bemotrizinol", "Ethylhexyl triazone" ], "avoid_with": [ "Uncoated grades with light-sensitive ingredients (generate free radicals in light)" ], "formats": [ "cream", "lotion", "fluid", "stick", "balm" ], "categories": [ "suncare", "skincare", "baby" ], "in_the_lab": { "solubility": "Disperse in the oil or water phase, choosing an oil- or water-dispersible grade, as it is insoluble.", "ph_range": "5–8, grade-dependent.", "stability": "Use an alumina-, silica- or silicone-treated grade, since uncoated grades are photocatalytic. Check agglomeration, viscosity and greying through stability testing.", "packaging": "Tubes, pumps or sticks. Avoid propellant sprays and loose powders with nano grades, because of the inhalation concern.", "regulatory_au": "Permitted sunscreen active up to 25%, and also permitted as a colour (Permissible Ingredients Determination No. 3 2026). Primary sunscreens and moisturisers above SPF 15 are therapeutic goods, generally ARTG-listed (AUST L), tested to AS/NZS 2604 and labelled with approved names and set warnings.", "claims_caution": "Use only TGA-permitted indications, such as 'SPF 50+ broad spectrum very high protection', and skin-cancer, sunspot or solar keratosis claims need broad spectrum SPF 30 or more. Avoid 'chemical-free', and 'non-nano' must match supplier particle-size data." }, "australian_note": "Mostly a supporting mineral in Australian zinc-based and tinted sunscreens.", "sources": [ "https://www.legislation.gov.au/F2026L01382/asmade", "https://www.tga.gov.au/resources/publication/corporate-reports/literature-review-safety-titanium-dioxide-and-zinc-oxide-nanoparticles-sunscreens", "https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/26431814/", "https://www.tga.gov.au/resources/guidance/understanding-regulation-therapeutic-sunscreens", "https://www.tga.gov.au/sites/default/files/2025-08/understanding-regulation-therapeutic-sunscreens.pdf", "https://eur-lex.europa.eu/legal-content/EN/TXT/?uri=CELEX:02009R1223-20260518", "https://www.fda.gov/drugs/understanding-over-counter-medicines/questions-and-answers-fdas-regulatory-actions-over-counter-sunscreen", "https://webprod.hc-sc.gc.ca/nhpid-bdipsn/atReq?atid=sunscreen-ecransolaire&lang=eng" ], "use_level_pct": { "min": 2, "max": 10 }, "ph": { "min": 5, "max": 8 }, "solubility_tags": [ "particulate", "oil-dispersible", "water-dispersible" ], "sensitivities": [], "packaging_icons": [ "tube", "pump-bottle", "stick" ], "regional": [ { "market": "Australia", "note": "Permitted up to 25% as a sunscreen active, and separately as a colour. As with zinc oxide, nano grades are allowed and labels need not state particle size." }, { "market": "European Union", "note": "Annex VI allows 25% in total; nano grades must meet set purity and coating specs and cannot be used where they could be inhaled. Fine powder grades have extra limits under Annex III." }, { "market": "United States", "note": "One of two long-standing filters the FDA has proposed as safe and effective (GRASE), at up to 25%; the FDA added bemotrizinol to the monograph in June 2026. US sunscreens are OTC drugs with a Drug Facts label." }, { "market": "Canada", "note": "A sunscreen whose only actives are titanium dioxide or zinc oxide, each up to 25%, is a natural health product needing an NPN; adding any organic filter makes it a drug needing a DIN." } ] }, { "slug": "avobenzone", "name": "Avobenzone", "inci": "Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane", "aka": [ "Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane (Australian Approved Name)", "Parsol 1789 (dsm-firmenich)", "BMDBM" ], "group": "suncare", "family": "Organic UV filter", "supplied_as": "powder", "origin": "synthetic", "one_liner": "A long-standing UVA filter in Australian chemical sunscreens; strong long-UVA cover but it needs stabilising.", "plain_explainer": "Avobenzone absorbs long UVA rays, the rays linked with premature skin ageing, and helps a sunscreen earn its broad spectrum rating. It is invisible on skin, which suits clear, light textures.", "good_for": [ "Long UVA protection", "Broad spectrum protection", "No white cast" ], "typical_use_level": "3–5%", "use_level_note": "3–5% gives strong long-UVA cover. Pair it with octocrylene or bemotrizinol to keep it stable, and add a chelator such as disodium EDTA.", "how_it_works": "Avobenzone peaks at about 357 nm, deep in the UVA range. After absorbing that energy it can change shape and lose protection unless a stabilising filter, such as octocrylene or bemotrizinol, takes the excess energy away. Well-stabilised formulas keep most of their UVA protection under prolonged UV exposure, which irradiation testing should confirm.", "scores": { "evidence": { "score": 5, "note": "Decades of use, and Australia's 2025 review found it low risk." }, "gentleness": { "score": 4, "note": "Generally well tolerated, though it can sting the eyes." }, "formulation_difficulty": { "score": 4, "note": "Breaks down in light and can recrystallise or stain with iron." }, "cost": { "score": 2, "note": "Widely produced commodity filter." }, "popularity": { "score": 4, "note": "Still in many Australian mass-market formulas, though losing share." } }, "pairs_well_with": [ "Octocrylene", "Bemotrizinol", "Homosalate", "Octisalate", "Disodium EDTA" ], "avoid_with": [ "Octinoxate (speeds its breakdown)", "Zinc oxide of any grade, and uncoated or alumina-coated titanium dioxide (needs supporting stability data)" ], "formats": [ "lotion", "cream", "fluid", "spray", "gel" ], "categories": [ "suncare", "skincare", "body" ], "in_the_lab": { "solubility": "Oil phase. Dissolve the crystalline powder fully in good solvents to avoid recrystallisation.", "ph_range": "Not pH-sensitive; finished product usually 5–7.", "stability": "Stabilise with octocrylene, bemotrizinol or similar, and confirm by irradiation testing. Add a chelator such as disodium EDTA, as iron and other metal ions cause yellow-orange stains on fabric.", "packaging": "Opaque tube or bottle; run standard pack-compatibility tests.", "regulatory_au": "Permitted sunscreen active, maximum 5% (Permissible Ingredients Determination No. 3 2026), and the TGA's 2025 safety review found it low risk with no change recommended. Primary sunscreens and moisturisers above SPF 15 are therapeutic goods, generally ARTG-listed (AUST L), tested to AS/NZS 2604 and labelled with approved names and set warnings.", "claims_caution": "Use only TGA-permitted indications, such as 'SPF 50+ broad spectrum very high protection', and skin-cancer, sunspot or solar keratosis claims need broad spectrum SPF 30 or more. Its UVA role supports 'broad spectrum' only when the finished product passes the test." }, "australian_note": "One of seven filters prioritised in the TGA's 2025 safety review, partly because of wide use in Australian sunscreens.", "sources": [ "https://www.legislation.gov.au/F2026L01382/asmade", "https://www.tga.gov.au/resources/publication/corporate-reports/safety-review-seven-active-sunscreen-ingredients", "https://www.dsm-firmenich.com/en/businesses/perfumery-beauty/beauty-care/products/parsol-1789.html", "https://www.accessdata.fda.gov/drugsatfda_docs/omuf/order/supportDoc/OTC000039/Final_Administrative_Order.pdf", "https://www.fda.gov/drugs/understanding-over-counter-medicines/questions-and-answers-fdas-regulatory-actions-over-counter-sunscreen", "https://www.mhlw.go.jp/content/001257665.pdf", "https://eur-lex.europa.eu/legal-content/EN/TXT/?uri=CELEX:02009R1223-20260518" ], "use_level_pct": { "min": 3, "max": 5 }, "ph": null, "solubility_tags": [ "oil" ], "sensitivities": [ "light", "metal-ions" ], "packaging_icons": [ "tube", "squeeze-bottle", "spray-bottle" ], "regional": [ { "market": "Australia", "note": "Permitted up to 5% in ARTG-listed sunscreens, labelled as butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane. The TGA's 2025 safety review found it low risk at 5% and recommended no change." }, { "market": "United States", "note": "Capped at 3%, and under the monograph it cannot be combined with zinc oxide or titanium dioxide. The FDA has also asked for more safety data before confirming it as GRASE." }, { "market": "Japan", "note": "Japan's cosmetic UV-filter list allows up to 10%, twice the Australian and EU maximum of 5%." }, { "market": "Climate", "note": "Breaks down in strong sunlight unless stabilised with octocrylene, bemotrizinol or similar, so confirm photostability by irradiation testing before selling into high-UV markets." } ] }, { "slug": "octocrylene", "name": "Octocrylene", "inci": "Octocrylene", "aka": [ "Parsol 340 (dsm-firmenich)", "Uvinul N 539 T (former BASF grade)", "OCR" ], "group": "suncare", "family": "Organic UV filter", "supplied_as": "liquid", "origin": "synthetic", "one_liner": "A photostable liquid UVB filter that stabilises avobenzone, now often left out over benzophenone and allergy concerns.", "plain_explainer": "Octocrylene is an oily liquid that absorbs UVB and some short UVA, and helps keep avobenzone stable in sunlight. It also dissolves powdery filters and supports water resistance.", "good_for": [ "UVB protection", "Broad spectrum protection", "Water-resistant sun protection" ], "typical_use_level": "5–10%", "use_level_note": "5–10% adds UVB cover. Lower levels are common when its main job is stabilising avobenzone, and it helps dissolve crystalline filters.", "how_it_works": "Octocrylene peaks around 303 nm and stays stable under light. It can take excess energy from excited avobenzone molecules, which slows avobenzone's breakdown.", "scores": { "evidence": { "score": 4, "note": "Long track record, and Australia's 2025 review found it low risk." }, "gentleness": { "score": 3, "note": "A recognised but uncommon cause of contact allergy." }, "formulation_difficulty": { "score": 2, "note": "Easy liquid oil-phase filter that needs benzophenone checks." }, "cost": { "score": 2, "note": "Inexpensive commodity filter." }, "popularity": { "score": 3, "note": "Still widespread, but octocrylene-free briefs are growing." } }, "pairs_well_with": [ "Avobenzone", "Homosalate", "Bemotrizinol", "DHHB" ], "avoid_with": [ "Octocrylene-free or sensitive-skin positioning (benzophenone and allergy concerns)", "Users sensitised to ketoprofen gels (linked photoallergy)" ], "formats": [ "lotion", "cream", "spray", "gel", "stick" ], "categories": [ "suncare", "body" ], "in_the_lab": { "solubility": "Oil phase. A liquid that blends straight into the oils.", "ph_range": "5–7.5; ester can hydrolyse at high pH.", "stability": "Set a benzophenone limit for the raw material and test aged batches, since benzophenone can rise as products age.", "packaging": "Standard sunscreen tubes and bottles; test plastic compatibility.", "regulatory_au": "Permitted sunscreen active, maximum 10% (Permissible Ingredients Determination No. 3 2026), found low risk in the TGA's 2025 review, while its impurity and breakdown product benzophenone is under separate scheduling review. Primary sunscreens and moisturisers above SPF 15 are therapeutic goods, generally ARTG-listed (AUST L), tested to AS/NZS 2604 and labelled with approved names and set warnings.", "claims_caution": "Use only TGA-permitted indications, such as 'SPF 50+ broad spectrum very high protection', and skin-cancer, sunspot or solar keratosis claims need broad spectrum SPF 30 or more. 'Octocrylene-free' is a fair content claim if true, but should not imply other sunscreens are unsafe." }, "australian_note": "Widely used in Australian sunscreens and one of seven filters prioritised in the TGA's 2025 safety review.", "sources": [ "https://www.legislation.gov.au/F2026L01382/asmade", "https://www.tga.gov.au/resources/publication/corporate-reports/safety-review-seven-active-sunscreen-ingredients", "https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/33682414/", "https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/24628344/", "https://eur-lex.europa.eu/eli/reg/2022/1176/oj", "https://www.tga.gov.au/news/consultations/consultation-proposed-amendments-poisons-standard-relation-homosalate-oxybenzone-and-benzophenone-joint-acms-accs-meeting-september-2025", "https://www.fda.gov/drugs/understanding-over-counter-medicines/questions-and-answers-fdas-regulatory-actions-over-counter-sunscreen", "https://ecomundo.eu/en/blog/octocrylene-reach-restriction-cosmetics" ], "use_level_pct": { "min": 5, "max": 10 }, "ph": { "min": 5, "max": 7.5 }, "solubility_tags": [ "oil" ], "sensitivities": [ "high-ph" ], "packaging_icons": [ "tube", "squeeze-bottle", "spray-bottle" ], "regional": [ { "market": "Australia", "note": "Permitted up to 10% and found low risk in the TGA's 2025 review, but benzophenone, its impurity and breakdown product, is under a separate Poisons Standard review." }, { "market": "European Union", "note": "Annex VI allows 10%, or 9% in propellant sprays, with benzophenone kept to trace levels. A French REACH proposal backed by ECHA's committees in 2026 would bar it from cosmetics." }, { "market": "United States", "note": "Permitted up to 10% under the FDA monograph, but it is one of 12 filters the FDA says need more safety data before it can confirm them as GRASE." }, { "market": "Climate", "note": "Benzophenone builds up as products age: in a 2021 study it nearly doubled after six weeks of accelerated ageing, so avoid hot storage and track it in stability testing." } ] }, { "slug": "homosalate", "name": "Homosalate", "inci": "Homosalate", "aka": [ "HMS", "Homomenthyl salicylate" ], "group": "suncare", "family": "Organic UV filter", "supplied_as": "liquid", "origin": "synthetic", "one_liner": "A liquid UVB filter common in Australian sunscreens, now under TGA review for possible concentration limits.", "plain_explainer": "Homosalate is an oily liquid that absorbs UVB and dissolves other filters. It has long been a workhorse in light, spreadable sunscreens.", "good_for": [ "UVB protection", "Sun protection", "Lightweight sun protection" ], "typical_use_level": "5–10%", "use_level_note": "5–10% adds UVB cover and dissolves crystalline filters such as avobenzone. Octisalate or ester emollients can take over part of that solvent role.", "how_it_works": "Homosalate peaks around 306 nm and is a fairly weak UVB absorber on its own. Its main value is as a solvent that keeps crystalline filters such as avobenzone dissolved, and it is reasonably stable in light.", "scores": { "evidence": { "score": 4, "note": "Proven SPF contribution, but regulators question its safety margin." }, "gentleness": { "score": 4, "note": "Rarely irritates skin, though long-term absorption is questioned." }, "formulation_difficulty": { "score": 1, "note": "Easy liquid that dissolves other filters well." }, "cost": { "score": 1, "note": "Inexpensive commodity filter." }, "popularity": { "score": 3, "note": "Still common in mass-market SPF, but new briefs often exclude it." } }, "pairs_well_with": [ "Avobenzone", "Octocrylene", "Octisalate", "Bemotrizinol" ], "avoid_with": [ "Kids' and whole-body products (TGA limits pending)", "Body products or high levels for EU sale (not permitted in the EU)" ], "formats": [ "lotion", "spray", "cream", "gel" ], "categories": [ "suncare", "body" ], "in_the_lab": { "solubility": "Oil phase. A liquid that also dissolves avobenzone, DHHB and bemotrizinol.", "ph_range": "5–7.5; ester can hydrolyse at high pH.", "stability": "Rebalance the oil phase's solvency if it is removed or reduced. It is otherwise adequately photostable.", "packaging": "Standard sunscreen packs; test plastic compatibility.", "regulatory_au": "Permitted active, maximum 15% (Permissible Ingredients Determination No. 3 2026), and the TGA's 2025 review recommended scheduling limits by concentration, body area and age, with no change in effect as at October 2026. Primary sunscreens and moisturisers above SPF 15 are therapeutic goods, generally ARTG-listed (AUST L), tested to AS/NZS 2604 and labelled with approved names and set warnings.", "claims_caution": "Use only TGA-permitted indications, such as 'SPF 50+ broad spectrum very high protection', and skin-cancer, sunspot or solar keratosis claims need broad spectrum SPF 30 or more. State 'homosalate-free' plainly if used, without implying other products are unsafe." }, "australian_note": "TGA modelling in 2025 put an acceptable level for whole-body use near 0.28%, so Australian limits may tighten and some products may need reformulating.", "sources": [ "https://www.tga.gov.au/resources/publication/corporate-reports/safety-review-seven-active-sunscreen-ingredients", "https://www.tga.gov.au/news/consultations/consultation-proposed-amendments-poisons-standard-relation-homosalate-oxybenzone-and-benzophenone-joint-acms-accs-meeting-september-2025", "https://eur-lex.europa.eu/eli/reg/2022/2195/oj", "https://www.legislation.gov.au/F2026L01382/asmade", "https://www.legislation.gov.uk/eur/2009/1223/annex/VI", "https://assets.publishing.service.gov.uk/media/682dde88a599d03a16bff3b3/sag-cs-opinion-17-homosalate-in-cosmetic-products.pdf", "https://www.fda.gov/drugs/understanding-over-counter-medicines/questions-and-answers-fdas-regulatory-actions-over-counter-sunscreen" ], "use_level_pct": { "min": 5, "max": 10 }, "ph": { "min": 5, "max": 7.5 }, "solubility_tags": [ "oil" ], "sensitivities": [ "high-ph" ], "packaging_icons": [ "tube", "squeeze-bottle", "spray-bottle" ], "regional": [ { "market": "Australia", "note": "Permitted up to 15% for now. The TGA's 2025 review found 15% not low risk for whole-body use and judged 0.28% low risk; Poisons Standard limits are proposed but not yet decided." }, { "market": "European Union", "note": "Since 2025 it is allowed only in face products, at up to 7.34% and not in propellant sprays, so body sunscreens for the EU must be formulated without it." }, { "market": "United Kingdom", "note": "Great Britain still allows up to 10% in any product, and its scientific advisers concluded in 2025 that 10% is safe in sunscreens, so UK and EU rules now differ." }, { "market": "United States", "note": "Permitted up to 15%, but it is one of 12 filters the FDA says need more safety data, and studies found blood levels above the FDA's 0.5 ng/mL threshold." } ] }, { "slug": "bemotrizinol", "name": "Bemotrizinol", "inci": "Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine", "aka": [ "Tinosorb S (BASF)", "Parsol Shield (dsm-firmenich)", "BEMT" ], "group": "suncare", "family": "Organic UV filter", "supplied_as": "liquid", "origin": "synthetic", "one_liner": "A photostable broad-spectrum filter covering UVB and UVA, central to modern Australian and European sunscreens.", "plain_explainer": "Bemotrizinol absorbs both UVB and UVA, and it helps protect more fragile filters such as avobenzone, so small amounts lift both SPF and UVA protection. Its large molecule stays mostly on the skin surface, which suits daily-wear and sensitive-skin formulas.", "good_for": [ "Broad spectrum protection", "High SPF", "UVA protection", "Sensitive skin", "Lightweight sun protection" ], "typical_use_level": "1–5%", "use_level_note": "1–5% gives broad UVA and UVB cover and stabilises avobenzone. It is oil-soluble but needs enough good solvent oils to stay dissolved.", "how_it_works": "Bemotrizinol has two absorption peaks, around 310 nm in UVB and 340 nm in UVA, so one molecule covers both. It releases absorbed energy quickly as heat, which keeps it stable and lets it calm excited avobenzone molecules too.", "scores": { "evidence": { "score": 5, "note": "Well-characterised and photostable, with EU and US assessments." }, "gentleness": { "score": 5, "note": "Very few irritation or allergy reports, and minimal penetration." }, "formulation_difficulty": { "score": 3, "note": "Powder with limited solubility that needs polar oils to dissolve." }, "cost": { "score": 4, "note": "Speciality filter, priced well above commodity filters." }, "popularity": { "score": 5, "note": "A staple of Australian next-generation filter launches." } }, "pairs_well_with": [ "Avobenzone", "DHHB", "Ethylhexyl triazone", "Zinc oxide" ], "avoid_with": [], "formats": [ "fluid", "lotion", "cream", "gel-cream", "spray" ], "categories": [ "suncare", "skincare" ], "in_the_lab": { "solubility": "Oil phase, dissolved hot in polar oils. At 25 °C about 12% dissolves in C12-15 alkyl benzoate, 5% in caprylic/capric triglyceride and under 0.5% in ethanol (BASF). How much the oil phase can dissolve usually sets the ceiling, and it can recrystallise in low-polarity oils or alcohol-heavy sprays.", "ph_range": "Not pH-sensitive; finished product usually 5–7.", "stability": "Confirm there are no crystals after freeze–thaw cycling. Water-dispersed grades suit gels.", "packaging": "No special needs; standard sunscreen packs.", "regulatory_au": "Permitted sunscreen active, maximum 10% (Permissible Ingredients Determination No. 3 2026), with bemotrizinol as the Australian Approved Name. Primary sunscreens and moisturisers advertised above SPF 15 are therapeutic goods, usually ARTG-listed (AUST L), tested to AS/NZS 2604 and labelled with approved names and set warnings; sunscreen lip products and tinted foundations that meet the Determination’s conditions are excluded.", "claims_caution": "Use only TGA-permitted indications, such as 'SPF 50+ broad spectrum very high protection', and skin-cancer, sunspot or solar keratosis claims need broad spectrum SPF 30 or more. 'Next-generation filter' is marketing language, not an indication, so keep it factual." }, "australian_note": "Long permitted in Australia, which is one reason Australian sunscreens used it years before US products could.", "sources": [ "https://www.legislation.gov.au/F2026L01382/asmade", "https://promo.basf.com/campaign/Projetos/CaringForYou/Documentos/Geral/Tinosorb%C2%AE%20S.pdf", "https://www.federalregister.gov/documents/2026/06/10/2026-11578/amending-over-the-counter-monograph-m020-sunscreen-drug-products-for-over-the-counter-human-use-and", "https://www.accessdata.fda.gov/drugsatfda_docs/omuf/order/supportDoc/OTC000039/Final_Administrative_Order.pdf", "https://www.mhlw.go.jp/content/001257665.pdf", "https://eur-lex.europa.eu/legal-content/EN/TXT/?uri=CELEX:02009R1223-20260518" ], "use_level_pct": { "min": 1, "max": 5 }, "ph": null, "solubility_tags": [ "oil", "water-dispersible" ], "sensitivities": [], "packaging_icons": [ "tube", "squeeze-bottle", "pump-bottle" ], "regional": [ { "market": "Australia", "note": "Permitted up to 10% in ARTG-listed sunscreens under the approved name bemotrizinol, and used in Australian sunscreens long before the US allowed it." }, { "market": "European Union", "note": "Annex VI allows 10%, the same as Australia, under the INCI name Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine." }, { "market": "United States", "note": "Added to the FDA monograph at up to 6%, effective 9 August 2026. For 18 months only DSM and its licensees may market sunscreens with it, and propellant must not touch the formula." }, { "market": "Japan", "note": "Japan's cosmetic UV-filter list caps it at 3% and does not allow it in lip or other mucous-membrane products, well below Australia's 10%." } ] }, { "slug": "dhhb", "name": "DHHB", "inci": "Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate", "aka": [ "Uvinul A Plus (BASF)", "Diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate (Australian Approved Name)" ], "group": "suncare", "family": "Organic UV filter", "supplied_as": "powder", "origin": "synthetic", "one_liner": "A photostable long-UVA filter that can replace avobenzone, giving steady UVA protection without stabilisers.", "plain_explainer": "DHHB absorbs long UVA rays, the part of sunlight linked with premature skin ageing. Brands use it to build avobenzone-free broad spectrum formulas or to add UVA headroom. It is clear on skin and works in light textures.", "good_for": [ "Long UVA protection", "Broad spectrum protection", "No white cast" ], "typical_use_level": "2–10%", "use_level_note": "Alongside other filters 2–5% is typical for photostable long-UVA cover, making it a common alternative to avobenzone. It dissolves well in cosmetic oils.", "how_it_works": "DHHB peaks at about 354 nm, close to avobenzone's peak, but does not break down in light. That gives steady UVA protection through the day without another filter to stabilise it.", "scores": { "evidence": { "score": 4, "note": "Well documented in EU safety reviews but has a shorter history." }, "gentleness": { "score": 5, "note": "Low rates of irritation and sensitisation reported." }, "formulation_difficulty": { "score": 2, "note": "Dissolves readily in common oils and ethanol, with few clashes." }, "cost": { "score": 4, "note": "Speciality filter, priced above avobenzone." }, "popularity": { "score": 4, "note": "Common in newer Australian launches, often with bemotrizinol." } }, "pairs_well_with": [ "Bemotrizinol", "Ethylhexyl triazone", "Octocrylene", "Homosalate", "Zinc oxide" ], "avoid_with": [], "formats": [ "fluid", "lotion", "cream", "spray", "gel" ], "categories": [ "suncare", "skincare" ], "in_the_lab": { "solubility": "Oil phase, or ethanol: about 23% dissolves in C12-15 alkyl benzoate, 17% in caprylic/capric triglyceride and 11% in ethanol (BASF). Melt the granules into the warm oil phase.", "ph_range": "Not pH-sensitive; finished product usually 5–7.", "stability": "Check very pale formulas for a faint yellow tint, which the melted granules can give.", "packaging": "No special needs; standard sunscreen packs.", "regulatory_au": "Permitted sunscreen active, maximum 10% (Permissible Ingredients Determination No. 3 2026), and the EU's SCCS (2025) set a 1 ppm target for the phthalate impurity DnHexP, so request this specification from suppliers. Primary sunscreens and moisturisers advertised above SPF 15 are therapeutic goods, usually ARTG-listed (AUST L), tested to AS/NZS 2604 and labelled with approved names and set warnings; sunscreen lip products and tinted foundations that meet the Determination’s conditions are excluded.", "claims_caution": "Use only TGA-permitted indications, such as 'SPF 50+ broad spectrum very high protection', and skin-cancer, sunspot or solar keratosis claims need broad spectrum SPF 30 or more. 'Avobenzone-free' is a content claim, not a safety claim." }, "australian_note": "", "sources": [ "https://www.legislation.gov.au/F2026L01382/asmade", "https://promo.basf.com/campaign/Projetos/CaringForYou/Documentos/Geral/Uvinul%C2%AE%20A%20Plus%20Granular.pdf", "https://health.ec.europa.eu/publications/sccs-scientific-advice-safety-diethylamino-hydroxybenzoyl-hexyl-benzoate-dhhb-s83_en", "https://eur-lex.europa.eu/eli/reg/2026/909/oj", "https://www.accessdata.fda.gov/drugsatfda_docs/omuf/order/supportDoc/OTC000039/Final_Administrative_Order.pdf", "https://webprod.hc-sc.gc.ca/nhpid-bdipsn/atReq?atid=sunscreen-ecransolaire&lang=eng" ], "use_level_pct": { "min": 2, "max": 10 }, "ph": null, "solubility_tags": [ "oil", "alcohol" ], "sensitivities": [], "packaging_icons": [ "tube", "squeeze-bottle", "spray-bottle" ], "regional": [ { "market": "Australia", "note": "Permitted up to 10% in ARTG-listed sunscreens. Ask suppliers for the level of the phthalate impurity DnHexP, since the EU caps it from 2027." }, { "market": "European Union", "note": "Annex VI allows 10%. From 1 January 2027, products placed on the EU market must keep the phthalate impurity DnHexP in the DHHB at or below 10 ppm; the SCCS sees 1 ppm as the target." }, { "market": "United States", "note": "Not an approved filter under the FDA sunscreen monograph, so a US sunscreen using it as an active would need an approved new drug application." }, { "market": "Canada", "note": "Not in Health Canada's sunscreen monograph, so a Canadian sunscreen using it would need a drug submission backed by its own safety and efficacy data." } ] }, { "slug": "ethylhexyl-triazone", "name": "Ethylhexyl triazone", "inci": "Ethylhexyl Triazone", "aka": [ "Uvinul T 150 (BASF)", "Octyl triazone", "EHT" ], "group": "suncare", "family": "Organic UV filter", "supplied_as": "powder", "origin": "synthetic", "one_liner": "A photostable UVB filter that lifts SPF at low levels, suited to light, modern sunscreen textures.", "plain_explainer": "Ethylhexyl triazone is a UVB filter where a little goes a long way, so formulators use it to reach SPF 50+ with less total filter. That helps lighter, less greasy textures. It does little for UVA, so it is always paired with UVA filters.", "good_for": [ "UVB protection", "High SPF", "Lightweight sun protection" ], "typical_use_level": "1–5%", "use_level_note": "1–5% gives very efficient, photostable UVB cover, so small amounts lift SPF. Dissolve it fully in the heated oil phase.", "how_it_works": "Ethylhexyl triazone absorbs strongly around 314 nm, at the long-wave end of the UVB band, with a specific absorbance above 1,500, and it keeps absorbing under long light exposure.", "scores": { "evidence": { "score": 4, "note": "Well documented, and Australia's 2025 review found it low risk." }, "gentleness": { "score": 5, "note": "Low rates of irritation and sensitisation reported." }, "formulation_difficulty": { "score": 3, "note": "High-melting powder that dissolves poorly and can recrystallise." }, "cost": { "score": 3, "note": "Speciality filter, but low use levels keep unit cost moderate." }, "popularity": { "score": 4, "note": "Widely used in Australian sunscreens and a 2025 review priority." } }, "pairs_well_with": [ "Bemotrizinol", "DHHB", "Avobenzone", "Dibutyl adipate" ], "avoid_with": [], "formats": [ "fluid", "lotion", "cream", "spray", "gel-cream" ], "categories": [ "suncare", "skincare" ], "in_the_lab": { "solubility": "Dissolve in the heated oil phase with enough polar solvent: about 16% dissolves in dibutyl adipate, 6% in caprylic/capric triglyceride, 4% in octocrylene and 1.3% in ethanol (BASF). Solubility, not efficacy, usually limits the level, and it can crystallise in oil phases short on polar solvents.", "ph_range": "Not pH-sensitive; finished product usually 5–7.", "stability": "Check for crystals after temperature cycling and cold storage.", "packaging": "No special needs; standard sunscreen packs.", "regulatory_au": "Permitted sunscreen active, maximum 5% (Permissible Ingredients Determination No. 3 2026), found low risk in the TGA's 2025 safety review with no change recommended. Primary sunscreens and moisturisers advertised above SPF 15 are therapeutic goods, usually ARTG-listed (AUST L), tested to AS/NZS 2604 and labelled with approved names and set warnings; sunscreen lip products and tinted foundations that meet the Determination’s conditions are excluded.", "claims_caution": "Use only TGA-permitted indications, such as 'SPF 50+ broad spectrum very high protection', and skin-cancer, sunspot or solar keratosis claims need broad spectrum SPF 30 or more. Its contribution shows in the tested SPF, so it is not claimed on its own." }, "australian_note": "Common enough in Australian formulas that the TGA included it in its 2025 priority safety review.", "sources": [ "https://www.legislation.gov.au/F2026L01382/asmade", "https://www.tga.gov.au/resources/publication/corporate-reports/safety-review-seven-active-sunscreen-ingredients", "https://promo.basf.com/campaign/Projetos/CaringForYou/Documentos/Geral/Uvinul%C2%AE%20T%20150.pdf", "https://eur-lex.europa.eu/legal-content/EN/TXT/?uri=CELEX:02009R1223-20260518", "https://www.accessdata.fda.gov/drugsatfda_docs/omuf/order/supportDoc/OTC000039/Final_Administrative_Order.pdf", "https://webprod.hc-sc.gc.ca/nhpid-bdipsn/atReq?atid=sunscreen-ecransolaire&lang=eng" ], "use_level_pct": { "min": 1, "max": 5 }, "ph": null, "solubility_tags": [ "oil" ], "sensitivities": [], "packaging_icons": [ "tube", "squeeze-bottle", "pump-bottle" ], "regional": [ { "market": "Australia", "note": "Permitted up to 5% in ARTG-listed sunscreens, and the TGA's 2025 safety review found it low risk at that level with no change recommended." }, { "market": "European Union", "note": "Annex VI also allows 5%, so Australian formulas using it meet the EU limit." }, { "market": "United States", "note": "Not an approved filter under the FDA sunscreen monograph, so a US sunscreen using it as an active would need an approved new drug application." }, { "market": "Canada", "note": "Not in Health Canada's sunscreen monograph, so a Canadian sunscreen using it would need a drug submission backed by its own safety and efficacy data." } ] }, { "slug": "bisoctrizole", "name": "Bisoctrizole", "inci": "Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol (nano)", "aka": [ "Tinosorb M (BASF)", "MBBT", "Methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol (Australian Approved Name)" ], "group": "suncare", "family": "Organic UV filter", "supplied_as": "liquid", "origin": "synthetic", "one_liner": "An organic filter supplied as tiny particles in water, giving photostable broad-spectrum cover and steadier avobenzone.", "plain_explainer": "Bisoctrizole is a carbon-based UV filter made into microfine particles and sold as a water dispersion. It absorbs and scatters UVB and UVA and helps keep avobenzone from breaking down. Because it is particulate, higher levels can leave a light white cast.", "good_for": [ "Broad spectrum protection", "UVA protection", "UVB protection", "Lightweight sun protection" ], "typical_use_level": "1–5% (as active)", "use_level_note": "1–5% as active, which is 2–10% of the 50% dispersion. Add it to the water phase, even after emulsifying, for broad UVA and UVB cover.", "how_it_works": "Each particle absorbs UV across UVB and UVA, with peaks around 305 and 360 nm, and also scatters some light, which boosts the oil-soluble filters around it. Because it sits in the water phase, it adds protection without adding oiliness.", "scores": { "evidence": { "score": 4, "note": "Well documented, though less studied than mineral filters." }, "gentleness": { "score": 4, "note": "Rarely irritates, though one dispersion ingredient can sensitise." }, "formulation_difficulty": { "score": 3, "note": "Added late as a dispersion, with care around salts and white cast." }, "cost": { "score": 4, "note": "Speciality filter, priced above commodity filters." }, "popularity": { "score": 3, "note": "Used in some Australian next-generation launches." } }, "pairs_well_with": [ "Avobenzone", "DHHB", "Bemotrizinol", "Ethylhexyl triazone" ], "avoid_with": [ "High-electrolyte or cationic bases (destabilise the dispersion)" ], "formats": [ "lotion", "fluid", "gel-cream", "cream" ], "categories": [ "suncare", "skincare" ], "in_the_lab": { "solubility": "Post-add the 50% aqueous dispersion to the water phase or cooled emulsion with gentle mixing, as the particles are insoluble in oil and water. The dispersion also carries decyl glucoside, propylene glycol and xanthan gum, and suits cold process.", "ph_range": "Dispersion pH 10.5–12; finished product usually 5–7.", "stability": "Store the dispersion frost-free and mix it before use, then check viscosity and SPF after ageing.", "packaging": "Avoid sprays of any kind, propellant or pump, and loose powders, as the nano form raises an inhalation concern.", "regulatory_au": "Permitted sunscreen active, maximum 10% as active (Permissible Ingredients Determination No. 3 2026). Primary sunscreens and moisturisers advertised above SPF 15 are therapeutic goods, usually ARTG-listed (AUST L), tested to AS/NZS 2604 and labelled with approved names and set warnings; sunscreen lip products and tinted foundations that meet the Determination’s conditions are excluded.", "claims_caution": "Use only TGA-permitted indications, such as 'SPF 50+ broad spectrum very high protection', and skin-cancer, sunspot or solar keratosis claims need broad spectrum SPF 30 or more. Do not call it 'mineral' or 'non-nano', as it is an organic filter in nano form." }, "australian_note": "Australian labels need not declare particle size, but the nano form must be disclosed for EU export.", "sources": [ "https://www.legislation.gov.au/F2026L01382/asmade", "https://promo.basf.com/campaign/Projetos/CaringForYou/Documentos/Geral/Tinosorb%C2%AE%20M.pdf", "https://health.ec.europa.eu/publications/revision-opinion-22-methylene-bis-6-2h-benzotriazol-2-yl-4-1133-tetramethylbutylphenolnano-form_en", "https://www.tga.gov.au/resources/guidance/understanding-regulation-therapeutic-sunscreens", "https://www.tga.gov.au/sites/default/files/2025-08/understanding-regulation-therapeutic-sunscreens.pdf", "https://eur-lex.europa.eu/legal-content/EN/TXT/?uri=CELEX:02009R1223-20260518", "https://webprod.hc-sc.gc.ca/nhpid-bdipsn/atReq?atid=sunscreen-ecransolaire&lang=eng", "https://www.accessdata.fda.gov/drugsatfda_docs/omuf/order/supportDoc/OTC000039/Final_Administrative_Order.pdf" ], "use_level_pct": { "min": 1, "max": 5 }, "ph": { "min": 5, "max": 7 }, "solubility_tags": [ "particulate", "water-dispersible" ], "sensitivities": [], "packaging_icons": [ "tube", "squeeze-bottle", "pump-bottle" ], "regional": [ { "market": "Australia", "note": "Permitted up to 10% as active, about 20% of the usual 50% dispersion. Labels need not state that the dispersion is nano-sized." }, { "market": "European Union", "note": "Annex VI allows 10% for standard and nano grades combined. The nano grade must meet set specs, cannot be used where it could be inhaled and must be labelled '(nano)'." }, { "market": "United States", "note": "Not an approved filter under the FDA sunscreen monograph, so a US sunscreen using it as an active would need an approved new drug application." }, { "market": "Canada", "note": "Health Canada's sunscreen monograph allows up to 5%, half the Australian and EU limit, in sunscreens sold as non-prescription drugs." } ] }, { "slug": "tocopherol", "name": "Vitamin E", "inci": "Tocopherol", "aka": [ "Vitamin E", "Tocopheryl Acetate (ester form)", "d-alpha-tocopherol (Australian Approved Name, natural form)", "dl-alpha-tocopherol (Australian Approved Name, synthetic form)" ], "group": "suncare", "family": "Antioxidant", "supplied_as": "liquid", "origin": "plant-derived", "one_liner": "An oil-soluble antioxidant that keeps sunscreen oils fresh and leaves skin feeling soft and conditioned.", "plain_explainer": "Vitamin E is a family of oil-soluble antioxidants found in plant oils. It helps skin look and feel soft and conditioned. It does not raise SPF and never replaces UV filters.", "good_for": [ "Dry skin", "Rough texture", "Sun-exposed skin" ], "typical_use_level": "0.1–1%", "use_level_note": "0.05–0.5% protects formula oils from oxidation, while 0.5–1% supports a skin-benefit story.", "how_it_works": "Tocopherol gives up a hydrogen atom to neutralise free radicals, stopping chain reactions in oils and in lipids at the skin surface. Some studies report less visible redness after UV exposure, more so alongside vitamin C. The acetate form has to be converted in the skin, so its effect is smaller.", "scores": { "evidence": { "score": 3, "note": "Some human data on reduced UV redness, but the effect is modest." }, "gentleness": { "score": 4, "note": "Well tolerated, with occasional contact allergy." }, "formulation_difficulty": { "score": 1, "note": "Simple oil-phase addition that needs protection from heat and air." }, "cost": { "score": 1, "note": "Inexpensive raw material." }, "popularity": { "score": 4, "note": "Common in Australian SPF moisturisers and after-sun products." } }, "pairs_well_with": [ "Vitamin C", "Ferulic acid", "Niacinamide", "Zinc oxide" ], "avoid_with": [], "formats": [ "lotion", "cream", "fluid", "oil", "stick" ], "categories": [ "suncare", "skincare", "body" ], "in_the_lab": { "solubility": "Oil phase. Blends readily with other oils.", "ph_range": "Not pH-dependent (oil phase); finished product 4–7.", "stability": "Add late to the oil phase, as free tocopherol oxidises with heat, air and light. Tocopheryl acetate is more stable but less active on skin, and only free tocopherol protects formula oils from going rancid.", "packaging": "No special needs at antioxidant levels; opaque or airless packs at higher levels.", "regulatory_au": "Cosmetic ingredient (AICIS). In listed sunscreens, use permitted forms such as dl-alpha-tocopherol or dl-alpha-tocopheryl acetate (Permissible Ingredients Determination).", "claims_caution": "Listed sunscreens may say 'contains vitamin E', but claims about reducing free radicals in or below the skin are not permitted and would need registration." }, "australian_note": "For COSMOS or ACO-certified ranges, use natural mixed tocopherols approved by the certifier.", "sources": [ "https://lpi.oregonstate.edu/mic/health-disease/skin-health/vitamin-E", "https://www.tga.gov.au/resources/guidance/understanding-regulation-therapeutic-sunscreens", "https://www.legislation.gov.au/F2026L01382/asmade", "https://www.scielo.br/j/bjce/a/Q5qVVNY6PXfp6tsxTbg9k9f/?lang=en" ], "use_level_pct": { "min": 0.1, "max": 1 }, "ph": null, "solubility_tags": [ "oil" ], "sensitivities": [ "light", "heat", "oxygen" ], "packaging_icons": [ "airless-pump", "tube", "squeeze-bottle" ], "regional": [ { "market": "Australia", "note": "No limits in cosmetics. In ARTG-listed sunscreens use a permitted form such as dl-alpha-tocopherol or mixed tocopherols concentrate; plain 'tocopherol' is only allowed in fragrances or flavours." }, { "market": "Climate", "note": "Heat speeds the loss of tocopherol as it protects oils from going rancid, so formulas for hot markets or long tropical shipping may need the upper end of the range." } ] }, { "slug": "octisalate", "name": "Octisalate", "inci": "Ethylhexyl Salicylate", "aka": [ "Octyl salicylate (Australian Approved Name)", "Ethylhexyl salicylate", "Parsol EHS (dsm-firmenich)" ], "group": "suncare", "family": "Organic UV filter", "supplied_as": "liquid", "origin": "synthetic", "one_liner": "A mild liquid UVB filter mainly used to dissolve other filters and smooth the feel of sunscreens.", "plain_explainer": "Octisalate is an oily liquid that absorbs UVB, though only modestly. Its main job is keeping powdery filters such as avobenzone, DHHB and bemotrizinol dissolved, and giving a lighter, less tacky feel. It is often paired with homosalate in Australian chemical sunscreens.", "good_for": [ "UVB protection", "Sun protection", "Lightweight sun protection" ], "typical_use_level": "3–5%", "use_level_note": "3–5% adds modest UVB cover and helps dissolve crystalline filters such as avobenzone, often alongside homosalate or octocrylene.", "how_it_works": "Octisalate peaks around 305 nm, with low absorbance compared with newer filters. As a liquid ester it keeps crystalline filters dissolved, which stops crystals forming in storage.", "scores": { "evidence": { "score": 4, "note": "Long use, and its modest SPF contribution is well established." }, "gentleness": { "score": 4, "note": "Low irritation and rare allergy, with some measured absorption." }, "formulation_difficulty": { "score": 1, "note": "Easy liquid oil-phase filter and solvent." }, "cost": { "score": 1, "note": "Inexpensive commodity filter." }, "popularity": { "score": 3, "note": "Common in Australian chemical sunscreens, often with homosalate." } }, "pairs_well_with": [ "Avobenzone", "Homosalate", "DHHB", "Bemotrizinol" ], "avoid_with": [ "Relying on it for SPF in low-filter formulas (adds bulk more than protection)" ], "formats": [ "sunscreen", "lotion", "spray", "fluid", "stick" ], "categories": [ "suncare", "body" ], "in_the_lab": { "solubility": "Oil phase. As a liquid ester it dissolves about 30% DHHB at 25 °C (BASF).", "ph_range": "5–7.5; ester can hydrolyse at high pH.", "stability": "Rebalance solvency for avobenzone and other powder filters if it is removed. It is photostable.", "packaging": "Standard sunscreen packs; test plastic compatibility.", "regulatory_au": "Permitted sunscreen active, maximum 5%, with octyl salicylate as the Australian Approved Name (Permissible Ingredients Determination No. 3 2026), and not one of the seven filters in the TGA's 2025 priority review. Primary sunscreens and moisturisers advertised above SPF 15 are therapeutic goods, ARTG-listed (AUST L), tested to AS/NZS 2604 and labelled with approved names and set warnings.", "claims_caution": "Use only TGA-permitted indications, such as 'SPF 50+ broad spectrum very high protection', and skin-cancer, sunspot or solar keratosis claims need broad spectrum SPF 30 or more. Its contribution shows in the tested SPF, so do not market it as a skin benefit." }, "australian_note": "If Australia restricts homosalate, octisalate may take on more of the solvent role.", "sources": [ "https://www.legislation.gov.au/F2026L01382/asmade", "https://www.dsm-firmenich.com/en/businesses/perfumery-beauty/beauty-care/products/parsol-ehs.html", "https://promo.basf.com/campaign/Projetos/CaringForYou/Documentos/Geral/Uvinul%C2%AE%20A%20Plus%20Granular.pdf", "https://doi.org/10.1001/jama.2019.20747", "https://eur-lex.europa.eu/legal-content/EN/TXT/?uri=CELEX:02009R1223-20260518", "https://www.fda.gov/drugs/understanding-over-counter-medicines/questions-and-answers-fdas-regulatory-actions-over-counter-sunscreen", "https://www.mhlw.go.jp/content/001257665.pdf" ], "use_level_pct": { "min": 3, "max": 5 }, "ph": { "min": 5, "max": 7.5 }, "solubility_tags": [ "oil" ], "sensitivities": [ "high-ph" ], "packaging_icons": [ "tube", "squeeze-bottle", "spray-bottle" ], "regional": [ { "market": "Australia", "note": "Permitted up to 5% in ARTG-listed sunscreens, labelled under the approved name octyl salicylate. It was not among the seven filters in the TGA's 2025 safety review." }, { "market": "European Union", "note": "Annex VI also allows 5%, under the INCI name Ethylhexyl Salicylate, so Australian formulas using it meet the EU limit." }, { "market": "United States", "note": "Permitted up to 5% as octisalate, but it is one of 12 filters the FDA says need more safety data, and studies found blood levels above the FDA's 0.5 ng/mL threshold." }, { "market": "Japan", "note": "Japan's cosmetic UV-filter list allows up to 10%, double the Australian, EU and US maximum, or 5% in lip and other mucous-membrane products." } ] }, { "slug": "bisabolol", "name": "Bisabolol", "inci": "Bisabolol", "aka": [ "Alpha-bisabolol", "Levomenol ((−)-α-bisabolol)" ], "group": "suncare", "family": "Botanical", "supplied_as": "liquid", "origin": "plant-derived", "one_liner": "A plant-derived compound, first found in chamomile, that helps sunscreens and after-sun feel gentle and comfortable.", "plain_explainer": "Bisabolol is a light, oil-soluble compound first known from chamomile, and most natural grades now come from the Brazilian candeia tree, with synthetic grades also available. At low levels it helps formulas feel soft and comfortable on sensitive or sun-exposed skin. It adds no sun protection.", "good_for": [ "Sensitive skin", "Sun-exposed skin", "Baby skin" ], "typical_use_level": "0.1–1%", "use_level_note": "Most sunscreens and after-sun products use 0.1–0.5%; up to 1% suits a stronger soothing story.", "how_it_works": "In lab and animal studies bisabolol damps several irritation signals in skin cells, which may explain its comforting feel, though human data are limited. It can also help other ingredients move into the skin's surface layers.", "scores": { "evidence": { "score": 2, "note": "Mostly lab and animal data, with few controlled human trials." }, "gentleness": { "score": 5, "note": "Very well tolerated, and allergy is rare." }, "formulation_difficulty": { "score": 1, "note": "Easy oil-phase or cool-down addition, stable across normal pH." }, "cost": { "score": 2, "note": "Low cost at typical levels, though natural grades cost more." }, "popularity": { "score": 3, "note": "A familiar soothing addition in sensitive and kids' sun care." } }, "pairs_well_with": [ "Panthenol", "Allantoin", "Zinc oxide", "Vitamin E" ], "avoid_with": [], "formats": [ "sunscreen", "after-sun", "lotion", "gel", "mist" ], "categories": [ "suncare", "skincare", "baby", "body" ], "in_the_lab": { "solubility": "Oil phase, or add at cool-down. Clear gels and mists need a solubiliser.", "ph_range": "4–8; stable across normal cosmetic pH.", "stability": "Check the certificate of analysis for (−)-α-bisabolol content, as natural grades are about 95% and synthetic racemic grades roughly half that, so the two do not perform the same. It is heat- and light-stable.", "packaging": "No special needs.", "regulatory_au": "Cosmetic ingredient (AICIS). Permitted only as an excipient in topical listed medicines, including sunscreens (Permissible Ingredients Determination No. 3 2026).", "claims_caution": "'Soothes and comforts the feel of skin' is cosmetic, while 'anti-inflammatory', 'reduces sunburn redness' or 'relieves sunburn' are therapeutic. In listed sunscreens, excipients cannot carry therapeutic claims." }, "australian_note": "For COSMOS or ACO ranges, use natural candeia grades and ask suppliers how harvests are managed.", "sources": [ "https://doi.org/10.1007/s11746-009-1483-3", "https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC9002489/", "https://www.tga.gov.au/resources/guidance/determining-if-your-product-cosmetic-or-therapeutic-good", "https://www.legislation.gov.au/F2026L01382/asmade", "https://www.ecfr.gov/current/title-21/chapter-I/subchapter-C/part-201/subpart-C/section-201.66" ], "use_level_pct": { "min": 0.1, "max": 1 }, "ph": { "min": 4, "max": 8 }, "solubility_tags": [ "oil" ], "sensitivities": [], "packaging_icons": [ "tube", "pump-bottle", "spray-bottle" ], "regional": [ { "market": "Australia", "note": "A cosmetic ingredient with no set limit. In ARTG-listed sunscreens it is permitted only as an excipient in topical products, not as a listed active ingredient." }, { "market": "United States", "note": "Every US sunscreen is an OTC drug, so bisabolol is an inactive ingredient and must appear under Inactive ingredients on the Drug Facts label." } ] }, { "slug": "urea", "name": "Urea", "inci": "Urea", "aka": [ "Carbamide" ], "group": "body-hair", "family": "Humectant", "supplied_as": "powder", "origin": "synthetic", "one_liner": "A skin-identical moisturiser that softens rough, dry skin on elbows, knees, heels and hands.", "plain_explainer": "Urea is part of the skin's own natural moisturising factor, made in the lab for skin care. At low levels it draws water into the skin, and at higher levels it also softens thick, rough patches. It suits dry body skin, hands and feet, and is a staple of skin-care-style body ranges.", "good_for": [ "Dry skin", "Rough texture", "Rough heels and elbows", "Bumpy upper arms" ], "typical_use_level": "2–10%", "use_level_note": "Daily body lotions use 2–5% and rough-skin creams 10%. Specialist heel and callus creams go to 20–40%, where urea also softens thick skin.", "how_it_works": "Urea is a small, water-loving molecule that holds water in the outer layer of skin. At higher levels it also loosens thick, dead surface skin by breaking hydrogen bonds in keratin. As it is very water-soluble, it suits light, non-greasy lotions as well as richer creams.", "scores": { "evidence": { "score": 4, "note": "Good clinical support for dry skin at 2–10%, less at higher levels." }, "gentleness": { "score": 4, "note": "Well tolerated at 2–10%, but can sting on very dry skin." }, "formulation_difficulty": { "score": 3, "note": "Slowly breaks down in water, raising pH and causing ammonia odour." }, "cost": { "score": 1, "note": "Inexpensive commodity raw material." }, "popularity": { "score": 4, "note": "Prominent in the move to skin-care-style body lotions." } }, "pairs_well_with": [ "Lactic acid", "Glycerin", "Ceramides", "Panthenol" ], "avoid_with": [ "True soaps and other high-pH bases (speed its breakdown)" ], "formats": [ "body-lotion", "body-cream", "hand-cream", "foot-cream", "body-wash" ], "categories": [ "body", "skincare" ], "in_the_lab": { "solubility": "Water phase. It is very soluble.", "ph_range": "5.5–7; buffer near pH 6 (lactate buffer is common) to slow breakdown.", "stability": "Add below 40 °C and buffer near pH 6, often with lactate, to slow its breakdown to ammonia and carbon dioxide. Track pH and odour drift through stability testing.", "packaging": "No special needs; tubes or pumps suit high-urea creams.", "regulatory_au": "Cosmetic ingredient in Australia, with introduction regulated by AICIS. Listed in Appendix B of the Poisons Standard, so it does not require scheduling.", "claims_caution": "Cosmetic claims include 'softens rough, dry skin' and 'smooths the look of bumpy skin'. Claims to treat eczema, psoriasis or ichthyosis, or to heal cracked, damaged skin, are therapeutic (TGA)." }, "australian_note": "", "sources": [ "https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC8611129/", "https://library.scconline.org/v065n03/65", "https://www.tga.gov.au/sites/default/files/2024-06/cosmetics-therapeutic-goods-guidance-for-advertisers-suppliers.pdf", "https://www.legislation.gov.au/F2026L00633/asmade/text", "https://www.canada.ca/en/health-canada/services/consumer-product-safety/cosmetics/cosmetic-ingredient-hotlist-prohibited-restricted-ingredients/hotlist.html" ], "use_level_pct": { "min": 2, "max": 10 }, "ph": { "min": 5.5, "max": 7 }, "solubility_tags": [ "water" ], "sensitivities": [ "water", "heat", "high-ph" ], "packaging_icons": [ "tube", "pump-bottle", "jar" ], "regional": [ { "market": "Australia", "note": "Listed in Appendix B of the Poisons Standard (low toxicity, any use), so it is unscheduled at any strength. Claims to treat eczema, psoriasis or other skin conditions make it a therapeutic good." }, { "market": "Canada", "note": "Health Canada caps urea at 10% in cosmetics other than bath products, so 20–40% heel and callus creams cannot be sold there as cosmetics." }, { "market": "Climate", "note": "Urea breaks down faster as temperature rises, releasing ammonia and pushing pH up. Buffer near pH 6 (lactate works best) and stability-test at 40°C before shipping to hot markets." } ] }, { "slug": "caffeine", "name": "Caffeine", "inci": "Caffeine", "aka": [ "1,3,7-Trimethylxanthine" ], "group": "body-hair", "family": "Alkaloid", "supplied_as": "powder", "origin": "synthetic", "one_liner": "A familiar, fast-absorbing ingredient used in scalp care for fuller-looking hair and body care for firmer-looking skin.", "plain_explainer": "Caffeine is the same molecule found in coffee and tea, made synthetically or recovered during decaffeination. It is absorbed quickly into the scalp, which is why it is popular in shampoos and scalp serums for thinner-looking hair. In body care it is used to help skin look firmer and smoother.", "good_for": [ "Fuller hair", "Firmness", "Dimpled skin", "Puffiness" ], "typical_use_level": "0.2–2%", "use_level_note": "Shampoos often use 0.5–1%, and leave-on scalp serums and body products up to about 2%.", "how_it_works": "Caffeine is small and water-soluble, so it reaches the hair follicles within minutes, even from a shampoo. In small scalp studies this helped hair look fuller, though results are modest. On the body it may reduce puffiness for smoother-looking skin.", "scores": { "evidence": { "score": 3, "note": "Good penetration data, but supportive trials are small." }, "gentleness": { "score": 5, "note": "Very low irritation at cosmetic levels." }, "formulation_difficulty": { "score": 2, "note": "Water-soluble and stable, but can crystallise above about 2%." }, "cost": { "score": 2, "note": "Inexpensive, though natural-source grades cost more." }, "popularity": { "score": 5, "note": "A staple of 2024–26 scalp-care and fuller-hair launches." } }, "pairs_well_with": [ "Panthenol", "Niacinamide", "Salicylic acid", "Peptides" ], "avoid_with": [], "formats": [ "shampoo", "scalp-serum", "conditioner", "body-lotion", "body-serum" ], "categories": [ "haircare", "body", "skincare" ], "in_the_lab": { "solubility": "Water phase, where about 2% dissolves at 25 °C. Warmth, a glycol or a hydrotrope such as sodium benzoate or niacinamide lets more dissolve.", "ph_range": "4–7; stable across a wide range.", "stability": "Cold-test any batch near the solubility limit, since crystals are the main risk. It is otherwise heat- and light-stable.", "packaging": "No special needs.", "regulatory_au": "Cosmetic ingredient in Australia. Pure caffeine is Schedule 6, but preparations for external use are excluded, so topical cosmetics are unscheduled.", "claims_caution": "Cosmetic claims include 'fuller-looking hair', 'invigorates the scalp' and 'smoother-looking skin'. 'Promotes hair growth', 'reduces hair loss' or 'treats alopecia' are therapeutic and need ARTG entry (TGA)." }, "australian_note": "", "sources": [ "https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC11855793/", "https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/32599587/", "https://www.tga.gov.au/sites/default/files/2024-06/cosmetics-therapeutic-goods-guidance-for-advertisers-suppliers.pdf", "https://www.legislation.gov.au/F2026L00633/asmade/text", "https://www.law.cornell.edu/cfr/text/21/310.527", "https://paper.people.com.cn/rmrbwap/html/2020-11/02/nw.D110000renmrb_20201102_1-11.htm", "https://www.nmpa.gov.cn/directory/web/nmpa/images/1617955301585009428.doc" ], "use_level_pct": { "min": 0.2, "max": 2 }, "ph": { "min": 4, "max": 7 }, "solubility_tags": [ "water" ], "sensitivities": [], "packaging_icons": [ "squeeze-bottle", "dropper-bottle", "pump-bottle" ], "regional": [ { "market": "Australia", "note": "Caffeine is Schedule 6 as a raw material, but preparations for external use are exempt, so topical products need no poison labelling. Hair-growth or hair-loss claims make it a therapeutic good." }, { "market": "United States", "note": "FDA regards any OTC product claiming to grow hair or prevent hair loss as a new drug that needs an approved new drug application, so US caffeine shampoos and serums must stay with cosmetic claims about how hair looks." }, { "market": "China", "note": "Any anti-hair-loss claim makes the product a special cosmetic that needs NMPA registration before import, and products claiming to promote hair growth cannot be sold as cosmetics." } ] }, { "slug": "hydrolysed-keratin", "name": "Hydrolysed keratin", "inci": "Hydrolyzed Keratin", "aka": [ "Keratin protein", "Keratin peptides", "Keratin hydrolysate", "Hair proteins" ], "group": "body-hair", "family": "Peptide", "supplied_as": "liquid", "origin": "animal-derived", "one_liner": "Small protein fragments that cling to damaged hair, helping it feel stronger, smoother and less prone to breakage.", "plain_explainer": "Hydrolysed keratin is the protein of hair and wool, broken into small pieces so it dissolves in water and can attach to hair. It fills weak, damaged spots on the hair surface, so hair feels stronger, smoother and easier to manage. Plant proteins such as wheat, rice, pea and quinoa do a similar job for vegan ranges.", "good_for": [ "Damaged hair", "Coloured hair", "Breakage", "Frizz" ], "typical_use_level": "0.1–2%", "use_level_note": "Shampoos use 0.1–0.5%, and conditioners, masks and leave-ins 0.5–2%, quoted as active protein.", "how_it_works": "Damaged hair has gaps and a more negatively charged surface, and protein fragments bind preferentially to these areas. Larger fragments mostly coat the surface and reinforce it, while smaller peptides can reach the inner cortex and help hair hold moisture. A 2021 study found mid- and high-weight keratin peptides made hair fibres stiffer and less prone to breaking.", "scores": { "evidence": { "score": 3, "note": "Consistent lab studies on hair fibres, but few consumer trials." }, "gentleness": { "score": 5, "note": "Very low irritation, and a 2021 review found it safe as used." }, "formulation_difficulty": { "score": 2, "note": "Water-soluble and easy to add, but needs good preservation." }, "cost": { "score": 3, "note": "Mid-priced, with plant proteins usually cheaper." }, "popularity": { "score": 4, "note": "'Keratin' is a familiar claim in shampoos, conditioners and masks." } }, "pairs_well_with": [ "Panthenol", "Amino acids", "Conditioning quats", "Argan oil", "Macadamia oil" ], "avoid_with": [ "Formaldehyde-releasing smoothing systems (a different, regulated product type)", "Hydrolysed wheat protein above 3.5 kDa average peptide weight (sensitisation risk, capped in the EU)" ], "formats": [ "shampoo", "conditioner", "hair-mask", "leave-in", "hair-serum", "styling-cream" ], "categories": [ "haircare" ], "in_the_lab": { "solubility": "Water phase. It is often supplied as a 20–30% solution, so dose the raw material for active protein, and quaternised grades give more substantivity in rinse-offs.", "ph_range": "4–7; conditioners usually 4–5.5.", "stability": "Add below about 60 °C to limit colour and odour, and run a thorough preservative efficacy test, as proteins feed microbes.", "packaging": "No special needs.", "regulatory_au": "Cosmetic ingredient in Australia (AICIS), with no restriction. CIR (2021) assessed eight keratin ingredients as safe and urged GMP control of impurities in animal-derived material.", "claims_caution": "Cosmetic claims include 'strengthens against breakage', 'smooths' and 'repairs the look of damaged hair', and keratin percentages must be accurate, as the ACCC took action over a '35% natural keratin' claim. Animal origin, usually sheep wool and sometimes feathers or horn, rules out vegan claims." }, "australian_note": "Australia is a large wool producer, but confirm the source and country of processing before making a local-ingredient claim.", "sources": [ "https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/34514894/", "https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC7820954/", "https://www.accc.gov.au/media-release/hair-straightening-products-recalled-by-suppliers", "https://ec.europa.eu/growth/tools-databases/cosing/details/28761", "https://www.cirs-group.com/en/cosmetics/indonesia-confirms-mandatory-halal-certification-will-be-implemented-as-scheduled-from-october-18-2026" ], "use_level_pct": { "min": 0.1, "max": 2 }, "ph": { "min": 4, "max": 7 }, "solubility_tags": [ "water" ], "sensitivities": [ "heat" ], "packaging_icons": [ "squeeze-bottle", "tube", "jar" ], "regional": [ { "market": "Australia", "note": "No scheduling or concentration limits. Australia is a major wool producer, but confirm the source and country of processing before making a local-ingredient claim." }, { "market": "European Union", "note": "Keratin from wool, feathers or horn is unrestricted, but keratin of human origin, such as from human hair, is banned under Annex II, so specify an animal source on the spec sheet." }, { "market": "ASEAN", "note": "Indonesia announced on 16 October 2026 that compulsory halal certification for cosmetics is deferred to October 2028. Animal-derived keratin will then need a halal-certified source, or the product must carry a non-halal statement." } ] }, { "slug": "shea-butter", "name": "Shea butter", "inci": "Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter", "aka": [ "Shea", "Karité" ], "group": "body-hair", "family": "Lipid", "supplied_as": "butter", "origin": "plant-derived", "one_liner": "A rich, plant-based butter that softens and cushions dry skin and helps hold in moisture.", "plain_explainer": "Shea butter is pressed from the nuts of the shea tree, which grows across West Africa's savanna belt. It melts at skin temperature, leaving a soft, protective layer that reduces water loss. It suits body butters, hand creams, lip balms and baby care, and shoppers know the name well.", "good_for": [ "Dry skin", "Dry hands", "Dry hair", "Frizz", "Baby skin" ], "typical_use_level": "2–10%", "use_level_note": "Lotions use 2–5%, rich creams and body butters 10–25%, and water-free balms and sticks up to 100%.", "how_it_works": "Shea is mostly a blend of solid and liquid fats, chiefly stearic and oleic acids, with a small fraction of plant compounds such as triterpenes. Its film fills gaps between rough surface cells, so skin feels smoother. Unrefined grades keep more of these minor compounds and a nutty scent.", "scores": { "evidence": { "score": 3, "note": "Well established as an emollient, but other claims are less tested." }, "gentleness": { "score": 5, "note": "Very well tolerated, with a 2024 safety review behind it." }, "formulation_difficulty": { "score": 2, "note": "Easy in emulsions, but water-free balms can turn grainy." }, "cost": { "score": 2, "note": "Moderate commodity cost, with certified grades costing more." }, "popularity": { "score": 5, "note": "Used in thousands of products, with 5,447 US uses in 2017." } }, "pairs_well_with": [ "Glycerin", "Colloidal oatmeal", "Panthenol", "Macadamia oil" ], "avoid_with": [], "formats": [ "body-butter", "body-cream", "hand-cream", "lip-balm", "nappy-cream", "conditioner", "hair-mask", "bar-soap", "styling-cream" ], "categories": [ "body", "baby", "haircare", "skincare" ], "in_the_lab": { "solubility": "Oil phase, heated fully to about 75–80 °C. It melts at about 32–45 °C.", "ph_range": "Not pH-dependent; finished products typically 5–7.", "stability": "Cool quickly to limit graininess, especially in water-free balms, where slow cooling and strongly solubilising esters such as C12–15 alkyl benzoate both speed it up. Add tocopherol to unrefined grades, which can oxidise.", "packaging": "Jars, tubes and sticks; keep below 30 °C in transit to avoid melt-and-regrain.", "regulatory_au": "Cosmetic ingredient in Australia, with no restriction. CIR (2024) assessed 13 shea-derived ingredients as safe in current use when formulated to be non-sensitising.", "claims_caution": "Cosmetic claims include 'nourishes', 'softens' and 'helps lock in moisture'. Fair-trade or 'supports women's co-operatives' claims need a traceable supply chain and evidence, such as fair-trade certification or a supplier's documented sourcing programme; Global Shea Alliance membership alone is not a certification." }, "australian_note": "", "sources": [ "https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/38166445/", "https://ulprospector.ul.com/20766/pcc-innovate-with-shea-the-impact-of-the-oil-phase-and-practical-strategies-to-prevent-grainy-formulations/", "https://globalshea.com/10years/", "https://www.legislation.gov.au/F2026L00633/asmade/text", "https://ec.europa.eu/growth/tools-databases/cosing/details/84401", "https://www.hsa.gov.sg/cosmetic-products/asean-cosmetic-directive", "https://ulprospector.ul.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/02/UL-Prospector-2026_AAK_final_v2.pdf" ], "use_level_pct": { "min": 2, "max": 10 }, "ph": null, "solubility_tags": [ "oil" ], "sensitivities": [ "heat", "oxygen" ], "packaging_icons": [ "jar", "tube", "stick" ], "regional": [ { "market": "Australia", "note": "No scheduling or concentration limits, and none in the EU or ASEAN ingredient annexes either, so shea itself needs no market-specific reformulation." }, { "market": "Climate", "note": "Heat in transit or storage partly melts shea, and slow re-setting grows gritty crystals (bloom). Cool batches quickly, choose a low-bloom grade and heat-cycle test before shipping to hot markets." } ] }, { "slug": "colloidal-oatmeal", "name": "Colloidal oatmeal", "inci": "Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Flour", "aka": [ "Colloidal oat", "Oat kernel flour" ], "group": "body-hair", "family": "Botanical", "supplied_as": "powder", "origin": "plant-derived", "one_liner": "Finely milled oats that soothe and protect dry, sensitive skin, including baby skin.", "plain_explainer": "Colloidal oatmeal is whole oat kernels ground to a very fine powder that disperses in water. It leaves a soft, protective layer on skin and carries natural compounds that calm the look of redness. It is a long-standing choice for baby care, sensitive skin and very dry skin.", "good_for": [ "Dry skin", "Sensitive skin", "Baby skin", "Redness" ], "typical_use_level": "0.5–2%", "use_level_note": "Lotions and creams use 0.5–2%. Bath soaks are almost pure oatmeal and are diluted in the bath water.", "how_it_works": "Oat starches and beta-glucans hold water and form a light film that protects the skin's surface. Oat lipids support the skin barrier, and antioxidants called avenanthramides are behind its calming effect. Natural saponins give a mild cleansing action, which suits wash products.", "scores": { "evidence": { "score": 4, "note": "Clinical studies in dry, sensitive skin, including in children." }, "gentleness": { "score": 5, "note": "Very low irritation, with long use in infant products." }, "formulation_difficulty": { "score": 3, "note": "Insoluble powder that needs good dispersion and suspension." }, "cost": { "score": 2, "note": "Low to moderate, with certified gluten-free grades costing more." }, "popularity": { "score": 4, "note": "Strong demand in baby and sensitive-skin ranges." } }, "pairs_well_with": [ "Shea butter", "Glycerin", "Ceramides", "Panthenol" ], "avoid_with": [ "Clear gel formats (it clouds them)" ], "formats": [ "body-lotion", "body-wash", "baby-wash", "baby-lotion", "bath-soak", "hand-cream", "nappy-cream" ], "categories": [ "body", "baby", "skincare" ], "in_the_lab": { "solubility": "Pre-disperse in glycerin or the water phase, as it stays as insoluble particles. Thin systems need a suspending agent to stop it settling.", "ph_range": "5–7.", "stability": "Specify low bioburden and run a thorough preservative efficacy test. Allow for starch and beta-glucans thickening or shifting viscosity, though it is heat-stable.", "packaging": "No special needs.", "regulatory_au": "Cosmetic ingredient in Australia. In the US it is an over-the-counter skin protectant (21 CFR 347), so US 'eczema' labels do not transfer to Australia.", "claims_caution": "Cosmetic claims include 'soothes dry skin' and 'gentle for sensitive skin', while claims to relieve eczema, rashes or dermatitis, or eczema imagery, can make it therapeutic (TGA). Take care with 'gluten-free': Australian food standards bar the claim on foods containing oats, so even with a certified oat supply it needs careful substantiation." }, "australian_note": "Australia grows oats, but confirm the origin of the colloidal grade with the supplier before making a local-ingredient claim.", "sources": [ "https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/22777219/", "https://www.law.cornell.edu/cfr/text/21/347.10", "https://www.tga.gov.au/sites/default/files/2024-06/cosmetics-therapeutic-goods-guidance-for-advertisers-suppliers.pdf", "https://www.law.cornell.edu/cfr/text/21/347.50" ], "use_level_pct": { "min": 0.5, "max": 2 }, "ph": { "min": 5, "max": 7 }, "solubility_tags": [ "water-dispersible", "particulate" ], "sensitivities": [], "packaging_icons": [ "pump-bottle", "tube", "pouch" ], "regional": [ { "market": "Australia", "note": "A cosmetic while claims stay with soothing and moisturising dry skin; claims to treat or relieve eczema make it a therapeutic good. Confirm oat origin before an Australian-grown claim." }, { "market": "United States", "note": "An OTC skin-protectant drug active at 0.007% minimum (0.003% with mineral oil), so US products can claim to relieve itch from eczema, rashes and insect bites, with a Drug Facts panel." } ] }, { "slug": "glycerin", "name": "Glycerin", "inci": "Glycerin", "aka": [ "Glycerol", "Vegetable glycerine" ], "group": "body-hair", "family": "Humectant", "supplied_as": "liquid", "origin": "plant-derived", "one_liner": "A clear, plant-derived humectant that draws water into skin; the backbone of moisturisers, washes and hand creams.", "plain_explainer": "Glycerin is a clear, syrupy liquid, usually made from plant oils. It pulls water into the outer layer of skin and keeps it there, so skin feels softer and less tight. It is gentle, and at higher levels it is the hero of classic hand creams for hard-working hands.", "good_for": [ "Dry skin", "Dehydrated skin", "Dry hands", "Sensitive skin" ], "typical_use_level": "3–10%", "use_level_note": "Most lotions use 3–7%, while intensive hand creams go to 15–40%. Above about 10% it can feel tacky unless balanced with silicones or esters.", "how_it_works": "Glycerin is a humectant, and skin also makes its own glycerol, which helps keep the barrier flexible and resilient. Higher levels give a stronger effect.", "scores": { "evidence": { "score": 5, "note": "Well established, with consistent clinical benefit in reviews." }, "gentleness": { "score": 5, "note": "Not an irritant or sensitiser at cosmetic levels." }, "formulation_difficulty": { "score": 1, "note": "Water-soluble and stable, though it can feel tacky at high levels." }, "cost": { "score": 1, "note": "Inexpensive commodity." }, "popularity": { "score": 5, "note": "Present in a large share of products, with over 15,000 US uses." } }, "pairs_well_with": [ "Urea", "Panthenol", "Shea butter", "Hyaluronic acid" ], "avoid_with": [ "Very high levels in light textures (tacky feel)" ], "formats": [ "hand-cream", "body-lotion", "body-wash", "shampoo", "conditioner", "baby-lotion", "serum" ], "categories": [ "body", "skincare", "haircare", "baby" ], "in_the_lab": { "solubility": "Water phase. It also mixes with alcohol.", "ph_range": "Any; neutral.", "stability": "Specify a pharmacopoeia grade such as USP or EP, and keep drums sealed, as it is hygroscopic. It lowers water activity and improves freeze–thaw resistance.", "packaging": "No special needs.", "regulatory_au": "Cosmetic ingredient in Australia, with no restriction. CIR (2019) found it safe as used in cosmetics.", "claims_caution": "Cosmetic claims include 'hydrates', 'moisturises' and 'softens', while 'heals cracked skin' or 'repairs damaged skin' are therapeutic. 'Vegetable', 'palm-free' or RSPO claims need supplier documentation, as plant grades come from palm, coconut or rapeseed oil." }, "australian_note": "", "sources": [ "https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/18510666/", "https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/31840548/", "https://www.tga.gov.au/sites/default/files/2024-06/cosmetics-therapeutic-goods-guidance-for-advertisers-suppliers.pdf", "https://www.law.cornell.edu/cfr/text/21/347.10", "https://ec.europa.eu/growth/tools-databases/cosing/details/87717", "https://www.canada.ca/en/health-canada/services/consumer-product-safety/cosmetics/cosmetic-ingredient-hotlist-prohibited-restricted-ingredients/hotlist.html" ], "use_level_pct": { "min": 3, "max": 10 }, "ph": null, "solubility_tags": [ "water", "alcohol" ], "sensitivities": [], "packaging_icons": [ "tube", "pump-bottle", "squeeze-bottle" ], "regional": [ { "market": "Australia", "note": "Unscheduled with no limit. Claims to protect or moisturise dry, chapped skin are cosmetic; claims to heal or repair damaged skin make the product a therapeutic good." }, { "market": "United States", "note": "At 20–45% glycerin is an OTC skin-protectant drug active, so hand creams can be sold as drugs claiming to protect chapped or cracked skin, with a Drug Facts panel." }, { "market": "European Union", "note": "No limit on glycerin, but diethylene glycol, a toxic contaminant, is banned except as a trace of up to 0.1%, so buy pharmacopoeia-grade glycerin with a DEG test." }, { "market": "Canada", "note": "Health Canada requires glycerin in leave-on and oral products to meet a recognised pharmacopoeia's diethylene glycol limit, such as the USP glycerin monograph." } ] }, { "slug": "piroctone-olamine", "name": "Piroctone olamine", "inci": "Piroctone Olamine", "aka": [ "Octopirox", "PO" ], "group": "body-hair", "family": "Anti-dandruff agent", "supplied_as": "powder", "origin": "synthetic", "one_liner": "A widely used scalp-care ingredient that helps control visible flaking; a common alternative to zinc pyrithione.", "plain_explainer": "Piroctone olamine has been used in shampoos and scalp products for more than 30 years to keep a flaky scalp in check. With regular use, flakes are visibly reduced and the scalp feels cleaner and more comfortable.", "good_for": [ "Flaky scalp", "Oily scalp", "Visible flakes" ], "typical_use_level": "0.5–1%", "use_level_note": "Anti-dandruff shampoos use 0.5–1% and leave-on scalp care 0.1–0.5%. At 0.05–0.1% it works as a preservative booster.", "how_it_works": "Visible flaking is linked to Malassezia, a yeast found on most scalps. Piroctone olamine binds iron the yeast needs, slowing it down so the scalp sheds fewer visible flakes. In a shampoo it must stay on the scalp long enough to work, so delivery and contact time matter.", "scores": { "evidence": { "score": 4, "note": "Several shampoo trials show results comparable to zinc pyrithione." }, "gentleness": { "score": 4, "note": "Low irritation at the levels used in rinse-off products." }, "formulation_difficulty": { "score": 3, "note": "Dissolves well in surfactants, but less so at acidic pH." }, "cost": { "score": 3, "note": "Mid-priced and a noticeable share of shampoo cost at 0.5–1%." }, "popularity": { "score": 4, "note": "Widely used for over 30 years and now a common alternative to zinc pyrithione, banned in EU cosmetics since 2022." } }, "pairs_well_with": [ "Salicylic acid", "Climbazole", "Panthenol", "Caffeine" ], "avoid_with": [ "Strongly acidic bases (lower solubility)" ], "formats": [ "shampoo", "conditioner-hair-mask" ], "categories": [ "haircare" ], "in_the_lab": { "solubility": "Surfactant phase, glycols or alcohol–water, as it is poorly soluble in water and many oils. It dissolves best near neutral pH, so shampoos usually sit at 5–7.", "ph_range": "4–10 (supplier); solubility is better near neutral, so shampoos usually sit at 5–7.", "stability": "Keep processing below 80 °C and avoid prolonged heating, following supplier guidance. Even 1 ppm iron forms a visible yellow complex that usual chelators do not prevent, so limit iron and copper in raw materials and equipment.", "packaging": "Opaque or tinted bottles, as it is light-sensitive in clear packs.", "regulatory_au": "Cosmetic ingredient in Australia and not listed in the Poisons Standard. Zinc pyrithione has been banned from EU cosmetics since March 2022.", "claims_caution": "Anti-dandruff products stay cosmetic only if claims are limited to controlling dandruff by cleansing, moisturising, exfoliating or drying the scalp (TGA Excluded Goods). 'Antifungal', itch-relief or 'treats seborrhoeic dermatitis' claims make it therapeutic." }, "australian_note": "", "sources": [ "https://www.clariant.com/Business-Units/Care-Chemicals/Personal-Care/Functional-Claims/Octopirox", "https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/10773717/", "https://eur-lex.europa.eu/eli/reg/2021/1902/oj", "https://www.legislation.gov.au/F2018L01350/latest/text", "https://ec.europa.eu/growth/tools-databases/cosing/details/36604", "https://www.hsa.gov.sg/cosmetic-products/asean-cosmetic-directive", "https://www.fda.gov/drugs/historical-status-otc-rulemakings/rulemaking-history-otc-dandruff-seborrheic-dermatitis-and-psoriasis-drug-products", "https://www.industrialchemicals.gov.au/sites/default/files/2022-11/Anti-dandruff%20anti-acne%20explainer.pdf" ], "use_level_pct": { "min": 0.5, "max": 1 }, "ph": { "min": 4, "max": 10 }, "solubility_tags": [ "alcohol", "water-dispersible" ], "sensitivities": [ "light", "metal-ions", "low-ph", "heat" ], "packaging_icons": [ "squeeze-bottle", "bottle" ], "regional": [ { "market": "Australia", "note": "Unscheduled. Anti-dandruff shampoos stay cosmetics only if they claim to control dandruff by cleansing, moisturising, exfoliating or drying the scalp; antifungal claims make them therapeutic goods." }, { "market": "European Union", "note": "The EU preservatives annex caps it at 1% in rinse-off and 0.5% in all other products, so plan leave-on scalp tonics at 0.5% or less. ASEAN sets the same limits." }, { "market": "United States", "note": "Not an active in the US anti-dandruff OTC monograph. FDA asked for data in 2004 but never added it, so US products cannot make anti-dandruff drug claims based on it." } ] }, { "slug": "aloe-vera", "name": "Aloe vera", "inci": "Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice", "aka": [ "Aloe", "Aloe barbadensis", "Aloe vera gel" ], "group": "body-hair", "family": "Botanical", "supplied_as": "liquid", "origin": "plant-derived", "one_liner": "The clear inner-leaf gel of the aloe plant, used to hydrate, cool and refresh skin, especially after sun.", "plain_explainer": "Aloe vera juice comes from the gel inside the leaves of Aloe barbadensis, purified and often concentrated. Its water-binding sugars help skin feel hydrated and cool, with a light, non-greasy finish. It is a familiar name in after-sun gels, body lotions, baby products and hair care.", "good_for": [ "Sun-exposed skin", "Dry skin", "Dehydrated skin", "Sensitive skin" ], "typical_use_level": "1–10%", "use_level_note": "Creams and lotions use 1–10%, and after-sun gels can be mostly aloe. Levels assume single-strength juice, so 10× and 200× concentrates are diluted back.", "how_it_works": "Aloe gel is almost entirely water plus polysaccharides such as acemannan, which hold water on the skin and leave a light, cooling film. It also carries small amounts of vitamins, amino acids and plant compounds that may calm the look of redness.", "scores": { "evidence": { "score": 2, "note": "Mostly small or anecdotal studies, so clinical evidence is limited." }, "gentleness": { "score": 4, "note": "Gentle in decolourised inner-leaf grades, but aloin can irritate." }, "formulation_difficulty": { "score": 2, "note": "Water-phase addition that needs cool-down and robust preservation." }, "cost": { "score": 2, "note": "Low to moderate, with organic and certified grades costing more." }, "popularity": { "score": 5, "note": "A highly recognised botanical in body, sun and baby care." } }, "pairs_well_with": [ "Panthenol", "Glycerin", "Allantoin", "Hyaluronic acid" ], "avoid_with": [], "formats": [ "after-sun-gel", "gel", "lotion", "baby-wash", "shampoo", "conditioner-hair-mask", "body-wash" ], "categories": [ "suncare", "body", "baby", "haircare", "skincare" ], "in_the_lab": { "solubility": "Water phase, added during cool-down.", "ph_range": "Juice about 3.5–5; finished products 4.5–6.5.", "stability": "Specify decolourised inner-leaf juice that meets the CIR aloin limit, and keep heating below 40 °C to protect the polysaccharides. Preserve robustly, as it is prone to microbial growth and browning.", "packaging": "Opaque or UV-protective packs reduce browning.", "regulatory_au": "Cosmetic ingredient in Australia (AICIS). CIR considers aloe ingredients safe when anthraquinones (aloin) are 50 ppm or less.", "claims_caution": "Cosmetic claims include 'hydrates' and 'cools and refreshes skin after sun', while 'soothes sunburn', 'treats burns' or 'repairs psoriasis patches' are therapeutic (TGA). A hero 'with aloe' claim should reflect real aloe content, which varies widely by supplier." }, "australian_note": "", "sources": [ "https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/17613130/", "https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC2763764/", "https://www.iasc.org/aloe_faqs", "https://www.tga.gov.au/sites/default/files/2024-06/cosmetics-therapeutic-goods-guidance-for-advertisers-suppliers.pdf", "https://oehha.ca.gov/chemicals/aloe-vera-non-decolorized-whole-leaf-extract", "https://www.legislation.gov.au/F2018L01350/latest/text" ], "use_level_pct": { "min": 1, "max": 10 }, "ph": { "min": 4.5, "max": 6.5 }, "solubility_tags": [ "water" ], "sensitivities": [ "heat", "light" ], "packaging_icons": [ "tube", "pump-bottle", "squeeze-bottle" ], "regional": [ { "market": "Australia", "note": "After-sun gels stay cosmetics if they claim to cool and moisturise; claims to treat or relieve sunburn or burns make them therapeutic goods that must be on the ARTG." }, { "market": "United States", "note": "California's Prop 65 lists non-decolorised whole-leaf aloe extract as a carcinogen, so use inner-leaf gel or decolorised juice to avoid cancer-warning labels on California sales." } ] }, { "slug": "allantoin", "name": "Allantoin", "inci": "Allantoin", "aka": [ "Comfrey-derived compound (now usually made synthetically)", "Glyoxyldiureide" ], "group": "body-hair", "family": "Skin conditioner", "supplied_as": "powder", "origin": "synthetic", "one_liner": "A gentle skin-conditioning ingredient that helps dry, rough skin feel softer and more comfortable.", "plain_explainer": "Allantoin occurs naturally in comfrey but is now usually made in the lab. It softens dry, rough skin and makes products feel more comfortable on sensitive or chapped areas. It is a quiet supporting ingredient in body lotions, hand creams, lip balms, baby care and after-sun.", "good_for": [ "Dry skin", "Rough texture", "Chapped lips", "Sensitive skin", "Sun-exposed skin" ], "typical_use_level": "0.1–0.5%", "use_level_note": "Most creams use 0.1–0.5%, with use up to 2% reported. Only about 0.5% dissolves in water at room temperature, so higher levels are carried as a fine suspension.", "how_it_works": "Allantoin helps loosen and smooth rough surface cells and holds a little water in the skin, so dry patches feel softer. It is also thought to calm the look of irritation, which is why it appears in comfort-focused products.", "scores": { "evidence": { "score": 2, "note": "Long use and US skin-protectant status, but few modern trials." }, "gentleness": { "score": 5, "note": "Very low irritation and found safe at use levels up to 2%." }, "formulation_difficulty": { "score": 2, "note": "Only about 0.5% dissolves in water, and more can recrystallise." }, "cost": { "score": 1, "note": "Inexpensive commodity raw material." }, "popularity": { "score": 3, "note": "Common as a supporting ingredient with little pull on its own." } }, "pairs_well_with": [ "Panthenol", "Glycerin", "Aloe vera", "Shea butter" ], "avoid_with": [ "Bases above about pH 9 (it breaks down)" ], "formats": [ "lotion", "body-lotion", "hand-cream", "lip-balm", "balm", "shampoo", "after-sun" ], "categories": [ "body", "baby", "skincare", "haircare", "suncare" ], "in_the_lab": { "solubility": "Water phase, where about 0.5–0.6% dissolves at 25 °C, as it barely dissolves in alcohols or glycols and not at all in oils. Above about 0.5%, add it during cooling below 50 °C so it stays as a fine suspension rather than forming crystals; clear gels need to stay at or below about 0.5%.", "ph_range": "4–9 (supplier guidance).", "stability": "Formulate within pH 4–9, where it is stable in water-based products.", "packaging": "No special needs.", "regulatory_au": "Cosmetic ingredient in Australia (AICIS), not listed in the Poisons Standard, and found safe as used by CIR (2010). Its US over-the-counter skin protectant status does not carry over to Australia.", "claims_caution": "Cosmetic claims include 'softens', 'conditions' and 'comforts dry skin', while 'heals chapped or cracked skin', 'protects minor cuts' or 'relieves irritation from rashes' are therapeutic (TGA)." }, "australian_note": "", "sources": [ "https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/20448269/", "https://www.sigmaaldrich.com/deepweb/assets/sigmaaldrich/product/documents/200/052/ronacare-allantoin-ms.pdf", "https://www.law.cornell.edu/cfr/text/21/347.10", "https://www.tga.gov.au/sites/default/files/2024-06/cosmetics-therapeutic-goods-guidance-for-advertisers-suppliers.pdf", "https://www.law.cornell.edu/cfr/text/21/347.50" ], "use_level_pct": { "min": 0.1, "max": 0.5 }, "ph": { "min": 4, "max": 9 }, "solubility_tags": [ "water" ], "sensitivities": [ "high-ph" ], "packaging_icons": [ "tube", "pump-bottle", "stick" ], "regional": [ { "market": "Australia", "note": "Unscheduled cosmetic ingredient. Claims about healing cuts or burns or repairing damaged skin make the product a therapeutic good, so US cut-and-burn protectant claims do not carry over." }, { "market": "United States", "note": "At 0.5–2% allantoin is an OTC skin-protectant drug active, so products can claim to protect minor cuts, scrapes, burns and chapped skin, but only as drugs with a Drug Facts panel." } ] }, { "slug": "argan-oil", "name": "Argan oil", "inci": "Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil", "aka": [ "Moroccan argan oil", "Argania spinosa" ], "group": "body-hair", "family": "Lipid", "supplied_as": "liquid", "origin": "plant-derived", "one_liner": "A silky Moroccan kernel oil used to soften skin, tame frizz and add shine to hair.", "plain_explainer": "Argan oil is pressed from the kernels of the argan tree, which grows in south-west Morocco. It is rich in oleic and linoleic acids and in vitamin E, and it absorbs readily without a heavy feel. It is a familiar name in hair oils, conditioners and body care.", "good_for": [ "Frizz", "Dry hair", "Dull hair", "Dry skin" ], "typical_use_level": "1–5%", "use_level_note": "Creams and lotions use 1–5%, while hair and body oils use it at up to 100%.", "how_it_works": "As an emollient, argan oil coats the hair surface, smoothing the cuticle so hair combs more easily, looks shinier and frizzes less. On skin it forms a light film that softens and reduces water loss. One small 60-day trial in postmenopausal women reported better skin elasticity, but evidence beyond emollient effects is limited.", "scores": { "evidence": { "score": 2, "note": "Good emollient performance, with little evidence beyond that." }, "gentleness": { "score": 4, "note": "Generally well tolerated, with rare allergy reports." }, "formulation_difficulty": { "score": 2, "note": "Simple oil-phase ingredient, best protected with tocopherol." }, "cost": { "score": 3, "note": "Moderate to high for pure, certified oil." }, "popularity": { "score": 3, "note": "Common in hair oils and conditioners, though demand has levelled." } }, "pairs_well_with": [ "Hydrolysed keratin", "Shea butter", "Vitamin E", "Macadamia oil" ], "avoid_with": [ "Unverified bulk supply (adulteration risk)" ], "formats": [ "hair-oil", "conditioner", "hair-mask", "body-lotion", "cream", "balm" ], "categories": [ "haircare", "body", "skincare" ], "in_the_lab": { "solubility": "Oil phase. Blends readily with other oils.", "ph_range": "Not applicable (oil phase).", "stability": "Add 0.05–0.1% tocopherol and store cool, as its oxidative stability is moderate. Cosmetic unroasted grades are paler and less fragrant than culinary oil.", "packaging": "Opaque or amber packs, as long storage in clear packs turns it rancid.", "regulatory_au": "Cosmetic ingredient in Australia, with no restriction. Covered by CIR's 2017 assessment of plant-derived fatty acid oils as safe in cosmetics.", "claims_caution": "Cosmetic claims include 'nourishes', 'tames frizz', 'adds shine' and 'softens skin', while 'promotes hair growth' or 'reduces hair loss' are therapeutic (TGA). 'Pure' or 'organic' claims must be substantiated, ideally with certified, authenticated supply." }, "australian_note": "Macadamia oil is the Australian alternative where a local-ingredient claim is wanted.", "sources": [ "https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC4321565/", "https://journals.sagepub.com/doi/10.1177/1091581817740569", "https://www.wipo.int/ipadvantage/en/details.jsp?id=2656", "https://www.legislation.gov.au/F2026L00633/asmade/text", "https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/24797024/" ], "use_level_pct": { "min": 1, "max": 5 }, "ph": null, "solubility_tags": [ "oil" ], "sensitivities": [ "oxygen", "light", "heat" ], "packaging_icons": [ "dropper-bottle", "pump-bottle", "bottle" ], "regional": [ { "market": "Australia", "note": "No scheduling or concentration limits. Macadamia oil is the usual Australian-grown alternative where a local-ingredient claim is wanted." }, { "market": "Climate", "note": "Heat speeds rancidity: cosmetic argan oil lost quality quickly at 40°C in a one-year study, and even at 25°C use within 6 months is advised. Use opaque packs and fresh lots for hot markets." } ] }, { "slug": "biotin", "name": "Biotin", "inci": "Biotin", "aka": [ "Vitamin B7", "Vitamin H" ], "group": "body-hair", "family": "Vitamin", "supplied_as": "powder", "origin": "synthetic", "one_liner": "A B vitamin with strong shopper appeal for hair, but little evidence it helps when applied topically.", "plain_explainer": "Biotin is a B vitamin widely known from hair and nail supplements. There is no good evidence that biotin in a shampoo or serum changes how hair looks or feels. It is used mostly because shoppers recognise the name.", "good_for": [ "Fine hair", "Flat hair", "Thickening shampoos" ], "typical_use_level": "0.01–0.1%", "use_level_note": "Shampoos, conditioners and scalp serums use 0.01–0.1%, the maximum reported for hair products. The 0.6% on record was in a face product in 1999.", "how_it_works": "Inside the body, biotin helps enzymes that make fats and proteins, including keratin. A 2017 review found that biotin taken by mouth improved hair or nails only in people with low biotin levels or specific hair and nail conditions.", "scores": { "evidence": { "score": 1, "note": "Weak, with no good evidence for topical hair benefits." }, "gentleness": { "score": 5, "note": "Very low irritation at cosmetic levels, reaffirmed safe in 2023." }, "formulation_difficulty": { "score": 2, "note": "Poor water solubility, so pre-dissolve it or keep levels low." }, "cost": { "score": 2, "note": "Inexpensive at the low levels used." }, "popularity": { "score": 4, "note": "High shopper recognition, common on 'thickening' shampoo labels." } }, "pairs_well_with": [ "Caffeine", "Hydrolysed keratin", "Niacinamide", "Panthenol" ], "avoid_with": [], "formats": [ "shampoo", "conditioner", "hair-mask" ], "categories": [ "haircare" ], "in_the_lab": { "solubility": "Water phase, but only about 0.02% dissolves at 25 °C, so pre-dissolve it in dilute alkali or glycols. Over-dosing leads to crystals.", "ph_range": "4–8.", "stability": "Add at any stage, as it is heat- and light-stable at cosmetic levels.", "packaging": "No special needs.", "regulatory_au": "Cosmetic ingredient in Australia (AICIS) and not listed in the Poisons Standard. CIR first assessed it in 2001 and reaffirmed it as safe in 2023.", "claims_caution": "Hair-growth, 'reduces hair loss' or 'treats thinning' claims are therapeutic and need ARTG entry (TGA). Cosmetic claims such as 'fuller-looking hair' must reflect the whole formula, as implying biotin alone does it could mislead (ACCC)." }, "australian_note": "", "sources": [ "https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC5582478/", "https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/37749781/", "https://www.tga.gov.au/sites/default/files/2024-06/cosmetics-therapeutic-goods-guidance-for-advertisers-suppliers.pdf", "https://www.law.cornell.edu/cfr/text/21/310.527", "https://paper.people.com.cn/rmrbwap/html/2020-11/02/nw.D110000renmrb_20201102_1-11.htm", "https://www.nmpa.gov.cn/directory/web/nmpa/images/1617955301585009428.doc", "https://www.fnnews.com/news/202605181630507950" ], "use_level_pct": { "min": 0.01, "max": 0.1 }, "ph": { "min": 4, "max": 8 }, "solubility_tags": [ "water" ], "sensitivities": [], "packaging_icons": [ "squeeze-bottle", "bottle", "jar" ], "regional": [ { "market": "Australia", "note": "Unscheduled cosmetic ingredient. Claims to promote hair growth or reduce hair loss make the product a therapeutic good; cosmetic claims are limited to hair condition and appearance." }, { "market": "United States", "note": "Biotin is named in FDA's hair-grower rule, under which OTC products claiming to grow hair or prevent hair loss are unapproved new drugs, so US claims must stay cosmetic." }, { "market": "China", "note": "Anti-hair-loss claims make a biotin product a special cosmetic that needs NMPA registration before import, and hair-growth claims are not permitted on cosmetics." }, { "market": "Korea", "note": "Biotin is one of four MFDS-listed actives for functional cosmetics that help relieve hair-loss symptoms, so it can carry that claim in Korea after MFDS functional-cosmetic approval at the listed dose." } ] }, { "slug": "menthol", "name": "Menthol", "inci": "Menthol", "aka": [ "L-menthol", "Mint camphor" ], "group": "body-hair", "family": "Sensory", "supplied_as": "powder", "origin": "plant-derived", "one_liner": "The cooling compound from mint, used for a fresh, tingling feel in scalp, foot and body care.", "plain_explainer": "Menthol is the compound that makes mint feel cold, taken from mint oils or made synthetically. It gives an instant cooling, refreshing feel. It suits scalp tonics, shampoos for a flaky scalp, foot care, body washes and after-sun gels.", "good_for": [ "Scalp refreshment", "Tired feet", "Sun-exposed skin" ], "typical_use_level": "0.1–1%", "use_level_note": "Scalp tonics and foot products go up to about 1% for a strong cooling effect, while lip and face products stay much lower to avoid stinging.", "how_it_works": "Menthol switches on TRPM8, the nerve receptor that senses cold, so skin feels cool even though its temperature has not changed. At higher levels it can also sting or tingle strongly. The effect is sensory: it changes how a product feels rather than the skin itself.", "scores": { "evidence": { "score": 4, "note": "Cooling mechanism well established, but the benefit is sensory." }, "gentleness": { "score": 3, "note": "Can sting or redden at higher levels, so keep it away from eyes." }, "formulation_difficulty": { "score": 2, "note": "Dissolves in alcohol, glycols or oils but is volatile and pungent." }, "cost": { "score": 1, "note": "Inexpensive raw material." }, "popularity": { "score": 3, "note": "Common in scalp, foot and sport body care, and niche elsewhere." } }, "pairs_well_with": [ "Piroctone olamine", "Salicylic acid", "Aloe vera", "Eucalyptus oil" ], "avoid_with": [ "Products for babies and young children (can sting)", "Eye-area products (can sting)", "High levels on broken or sun-reddened skin (can sting or redden)" ], "formats": [ "shampoo", "body-wash", "gel", "after-sun", "mist", "balm", "lip-balm" ], "categories": [ "haircare", "body", "suncare" ], "in_the_lab": { "solubility": "Dissolve in alcohol, glycols or oils, or add to the surfactant phase, as it is only very slightly soluble in water.", "ph_range": "Not pH-dependent; stable across typical cosmetic pH.", "stability": "Add below 40 °C and keep packs sealed, as it is volatile. Watch for recrystallisation at high loads in the cold.", "packaging": "Well-sealed packs to hold the cooling effect over shelf life.", "regulatory_au": "Menthol is not listed in the Poisons Standard, and peppermint oil is in Appendix B. Camphor, often paired with menthol, is scheduled at higher levels, so check blends.", "claims_caution": "Cosmetic claims include 'cooling', 'refreshing' and 'invigorating', while 'relieves itch', 'relieves muscle or joint pain' or 'soothes sunburn pain' are therapeutic and need ARTG entry (TGA)." }, "australian_note": "", "sources": [ "https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/17498839/", "https://www.legislation.gov.au/F2026L00633/asmade/text", "https://www.tga.gov.au/sites/default/files/2024-06/cosmetics-therapeutic-goods-guidance-for-advertisers-suppliers.pdf", "https://www.accessdata.fda.gov/drugsatfda_docs/omuf/monographs/OTC%20Monograph_M017-External%20Analgesic%20Drug%20Products%20for%20OTC%20Human%20Use%2005.02.2023.pdf", "https://ec.europa.eu/growth/tools-databases/cosing/details/100411", "https://www.fnnews.com/news/202605181630507950" ], "use_level_pct": { "min": 0.1, "max": 1 }, "ph": null, "solubility_tags": [ "alcohol", "oil" ], "sensitivities": [ "heat" ], "packaging_icons": [ "squeeze-bottle", "spray-bottle", "tube" ], "regional": [ { "market": "Australia", "note": "Menthol is unscheduled and peppermint oil exempt, but camphor in cooling blends is Schedule 6 above 2.5% in liquids or 12.5% in creams and balms. Pain-relief claims make it a therapeutic good." }, { "market": "United States", "note": "An OTC drug active at 0.1–1% for itch relief and 1.25–16% as a cooling pain reliever. Those claims need a Drug Facts panel; cosmetic cooling or refreshing claims do not." }, { "market": "European Union", "note": "Since 31 July 2026, new EU products must name menthol, including menthol from peppermint oil or fragrance, above 0.001% leave-on or 0.01% rinse-off. Older stock has until 31 July 2028." }, { "market": "Korea", "note": "L-menthol is one of four MFDS-listed actives for functional cosmetics that help relieve hair-loss symptoms, so menthol scalp tonics can carry that claim after MFDS functional-cosmetic approval." } ] }, { "slug": "zinc-pyrithione", "name": "Zinc pyrithione", "inci": "Zinc Pyrithione", "aka": [ "ZPT", "Pyrithione zinc" ], "group": "body-hair", "family": "Anti-dandruff agent", "supplied_as": "liquid", "origin": "synthetic", "one_liner": "A long-established scalp-care active that helps control visible flaking, used in rinse-off shampoos for decades.", "plain_explainer": "Zinc pyrithione has been a mainstay of shampoos for a flaky scalp for decades. It is a fine powder that stays on the scalp after rinsing, so flakes are visibly reduced and the scalp feels cleaner with regular use. It suits rinse-off shampoos and conditioners.", "good_for": [ "Flaky scalp", "Visible flakes", "Tight scalp" ], "typical_use_level": "0.5–2% (rinse-off)", "use_level_note": "Anti-dandruff shampoos use 0.5–2%. It is insoluble, so the formula needs a suspending system to keep the particles evenly dispersed.", "how_it_works": "Zinc pyrithione particles deposit on the scalp and release pyrithione, which slows Malassezia, the scalp yeast linked to visible flaking. Because it works as particles, particle size, deposition polymers and the shampoo base strongly affect results. Products with the same level can perform very differently.", "scores": { "evidence": { "score": 5, "note": "Decades of controlled trials on visible scalp flaking." }, "gentleness": { "score": 4, "note": "Low irritation when rinsed off, and the EU ban is not skin-related." }, "formulation_difficulty": { "score": 4, "note": "Insoluble particles that need suspension and deposition aids." }, "cost": { "score": 2, "note": "Inexpensive at typical levels." }, "popularity": { "score": 3, "note": "Still common in shampoos for a flaky scalp, but declining." } }, "pairs_well_with": [ "Climbazole", "Salicylic acid", "Menthol", "Zinc carbonate" ], "avoid_with": [ "Strong chelators such as EDTA (can strip zinc)", "Soluble iron (turns the product grey-blue)", "Oxidising agents (supplier-listed incompatibility)" ], "formats": [ "shampoo", "conditioner" ], "categories": [ "haircare" ], "in_the_lab": { "solubility": "Disperse in the water phase as a suspension, often supplied at 48%, since it is practically insoluble in water. Structure with acrylates or glycol distearate to keep particles suspended.", "ph_range": "Roughly 4.5–9.5 for stability; shampoos usually 6–7.5.", "stability": "Keep iron out of the batch, since it turns the product grey-blue, and avoid strong chelators such as EDTA, which can strip zinc. Protect from strong light.", "packaging": "Opaque packs preferred.", "regulatory_au": "Permitted in Australian cosmetics, and Schedule 6 in the Poisons Standard except scalp preparations at 2% or less that carry the required advisory statements. Therapeutic use outside that exemption is Schedule 2.", "claims_caution": "Cosmetic only if claims are limited to controlling dandruff by cleansing, moisturising, exfoliating or drying the scalp (TGA Excluded Goods). 'Antifungal', itch-relief or 'treats seborrhoeic dermatitis' claims are therapeutic." }, "australian_note": "Suited to Australian-only ranges, with piroctone olamine the alternative for brands exporting to the EU.", "sources": [ "https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/26885780/", "https://eur-lex.europa.eu/eli/reg/2021/1902/oj", "https://www.legislation.gov.au/F2026L00633/asmade/text", "https://www.legislation.gov.au/F2018L01350/latest/text", "https://ec.europa.eu/growth/tools-databases/cosing/details/100284", "https://www.legislation.gov.uk/uksi/2022/659/made", "https://gazette.govt.nz/notice/id/2024-sl388", "https://www.law.cornell.edu/cfr/text/21/358.710" ], "use_level_pct": { "min": 0.5, "max": 2 }, "ph": { "min": 4.5, "max": 9.5 }, "solubility_tags": [ "particulate", "water-dispersible" ], "sensitivities": [ "light", "metal-ions" ], "packaging_icons": [ "squeeze-bottle", "bottle" ], "regional": [ { "market": "Australia", "note": "Scalp products at 2% or less are unscheduled if they carry the TGA's required advisory statements; other uses are Schedule 6 (Schedule 2 if therapeutic). Antifungal or 'cures dandruff' claims make it a therapeutic good." }, { "market": "New Zealand", "note": "From 1 January 2026, cosmetics may use it only at 0.1% in leave-on hair products or as a rinse-off preservative (1% hair, 0.5% other). Anti-dandruff shampoos with it fall under the Medicines Act unless Medsafe's exclusion applies." }, { "market": "European Union", "note": "Banned in EU cosmetics since 1 March 2022 as a reproductive toxicant, and in Great Britain since 15 October 2022. Piroctone olamine is the usual swap for EU and UK exports." }, { "market": "United States", "note": "An OTC anti-dandruff drug active at 0.3–2% in rinse-off and 0.1–0.25% in leave-on products, so US dandruff products are sold as OTC drugs with a Drug Facts panel." } ] }, { "slug": "tea-tree-oil", "name": "Tea tree oil", "inci": "Melaleuca Alternifolia (Tea Tree) Leaf Oil", "aka": [ "Melaleuca oil", "TTO", "Melaleuca alternifolia" ], "group": "australian", "family": "Botanical", "supplied_as": "liquid", "origin": "plant-derived", "one_liner": "A native Australian essential oil with a fresh, medicinal scent, used in clarifying skin, scalp and body care.", "plain_explainer": "Tea tree oil is steam-distilled from the leaves of Melaleuca alternifolia, grown on plantations in northern New South Wales and Queensland. It gives cleansers, body washes and shampoos a fresh, clean feel and is a familiar choice for oily skin and an oily, flaky scalp. The Bundjalung people of northern New South Wales used the crushed leaves long before the oil was distilled.", "good_for": [ "Oily skin", "Oily scalp", "Flaky scalp" ], "typical_use_level": "0.5–5%", "use_level_note": "Body washes and shampoos use 0.5–2% for a clean, herbal note; leave-on gels and scalp and foot products use 1–5%.", "how_it_works": "Its main component, terpinen-4-ol, disrupts the cell membranes of microbes in lab studies, which supports a clean, fresh feel on skin and scalp. Lab work also suggests it can calm the look of redness.", "scores": { "evidence": { "score": 4, "note": "Extensive lab data and several clinical trials." }, "gentleness": { "score": 3, "note": "Fine at low levels, but it is a moderate skin sensitiser, more so when oxidised." }, "formulation_difficulty": { "score": 3, "note": "Needs solubilisers in water-based products and protection from air." }, "cost": { "score": 2, "note": "Moderate, with verified Australian oil costing more than blends." }, "popularity": { "score": 5, "note": "Used in skin, scalp and body care around the world." } }, "pairs_well_with": [ "Salicylic acid", "Niacinamide", "Piroctone olamine", "Aloe vera" ], "avoid_with": [ "Baby products (can sensitise skin)", "Leave-on use near the eyes (harsh on the eye area)" ], "formats": [ "body-wash", "cleanser", "shampoo", "scalp-serum", "gel", "foot-cream", "hand-wash", "deodorant" ], "categories": [ "skincare", "body", "haircare" ], "in_the_lab": { "solubility": "Oil phase, or solubilise into water-based products with polysorbate 20, PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil or a natural solubiliser.", "ph_range": "Not pH-dependent; finished products typically 4.5–7.", "stability": "Add below 40 °C with an antioxidant, and store the oil cool, dark and in full containers. Oxidation raises p-cymene and peroxides, and aged, oxidised oil is harsher on skin and a known sensitiser.", "packaging": "Opaque, well-sealed packs. Neat oil carries Poisons Standard packaging and labelling requirements.", "regulatory_au": "Specify oil to ISO 4730:2025, which replaced the 2017 edition (terpinen-4-ol 35–48%, 1,8-cineole 10% max) in June 2025; it is a cosmetic ingredient (AICIS). Poisons Standard Schedule 6 applies except to preparations with 25% or less and to small restricted-flow packs with warnings.", "claims_caution": "Cosmetic claims include 'purifying', 'clarifying' and 'helps keep skin clean', while 'antiseptic', 'antifungal' or 'treats acne' are therapeutic (TGA). 'Antibacterial' is cosmetic only within the Excluded Goods conditions." }, "australian_note": "More than 100 growers, mainly in the Northern Rivers of NSW and south-east Queensland, produce about 500–1,200 tonnes a year, but blended and non-Australian oils are also traded, so ask for origin documentation.", "sources": [ "https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC1360273/", "https://agrifutures.com.au/news/tea-tree-oil-from-cottage-industry-to-export-powerhouse/", "https://www.iso.org/standard/69082.html", "https://www.legislation.gov.au/F2026L00633/asmade/text", "https://www.legislation.gov.au/F2026L01327/latest/text", "https://health.ec.europa.eu/document/download/827f8a57-c6f2-4d6d-9bbd-2ef12384ffbf_en?filename=sccs_o_303.pdf", "https://www.hse.gov.uk/chemical-classification/assets/docs/cwbsd-abbl-0980.pdf", "https://www.nmpa.gov.cn/xxgk/ggtg/hzhpggtg/jmhzhptg/20250624153604180.html" ], "use_level_pct": { "min": 0.5, "max": 5 }, "ph": null, "solubility_tags": [ "oil" ], "sensitivities": [ "oxygen", "light", "heat" ], "packaging_icons": [ "squeeze-bottle", "tube", "roll-on" ], "regional": [ { "market": "Australia", "note": "Neat oil is Schedule 6 unless packed at 15 mL or less with a restricted-flow insert and warnings, or at 25 mL or less with a restricted-flow insert, child-resistant closure and warnings; products at 25% or less are unscheduled. 'Antiseptic' or acne-treatment claims make it a TGA medicine." }, { "market": "European Union", "note": "The EU is moving to class it a reproductive toxicant; expected limits follow the SCCS: 2% shampoo, 1% body or face wash, 0.1% face cream, adults only, no sprays. Allergens it contains, such as alpha-terpinene, terpinolene and limonene, must be labelled above 0.001% (leave-on) or 0.01% (rinse-off)." }, { "market": "United Kingdom", "note": "In August 2025 Great Britain's HSE proposed not classifying tea tree oil as a reproductive toxicant for now, pending further assessment, so the EU's expected limits are not set to apply in GB." }, { "market": "China", "note": "Listed in China's IECIC as Melaleuca Alternifolia (Tea Tree) Leaf Oil, so it needs no new-ingredient filing with NMPA." } ] }, { "slug": "kakadu-plum", "name": "Kakadu plum", "inci": "Terminalia Ferdinandiana Fruit Extract", "aka": [ "Gubinge", "Billygoat plum", "Terminalia ferdinandiana" ], "group": "australian", "family": "Antioxidant", "supplied_as": "liquid", "origin": "plant-derived", "one_liner": "A northern Australian bush fruit naturally rich in vitamin C, used for brighter, more even-looking skin.", "plain_explainer": "Kakadu plum is a small green fruit from the Top End and the Kimberley, long eaten and used by Aboriginal people. The fruit is very high in vitamin C and in plant antioxidants such as ellagic and gallic acids. Extracts are used in serums, creams and body care for a brighter, more radiant look.", "good_for": [ "Dull skin", "Uneven tone", "Antioxidant care" ], "typical_use_level": "0.5–3%", "use_level_note": "Serums and creams use 0.5–3%; vitamin C content varies widely between extracts, so dose by the supplier's analysed level.", "how_it_works": "Its vitamin C, reported at about 2,300–3,150 mg per 100 g of fresh fruit, and its polyphenols are antioxidants that help protect skin from everyday oxidative stress. Levels vary with harvest site, ripeness and processing.", "scores": { "evidence": { "score": 2, "note": "Strong composition data, but skin benefits rest mainly on lab work." }, "gentleness": { "score": 4, "note": "Generally well tolerated, though acidic extracts may tingle." }, "formulation_difficulty": { "score": 3, "note": "Vitamin C and polyphenols oxidise and darken without protection." }, "cost": { "score": 3, "note": "Mid-priced, with wild harvest and benefit-sharing adding cost." }, "popularity": { "score": 4, "note": "A well-known Australian native active in local and export brands." } }, "pairs_well_with": [ "Niacinamide", "Vitamin E", "Hyaluronic acid", "Finger lime" ], "avoid_with": [ "High-pH bases (speed vitamin C loss)" ], "formats": [ "serum", "cream", "body-lotion", "mist", "mask" ], "categories": [ "skincare", "body" ], "in_the_lab": { "solubility": "Water phase, as a glycerin–water extract. Kakadu plum seed oil is a separate oil-phase ingredient.", "ph_range": "3.5–5.5.", "stability": "Add below 40 °C, protect from air and light, and add a chelator against iron and copper traces. Expect some colour drift as polyphenols oxidise.", "packaging": "Airless or opaque packs, not clear jars.", "regulatory_au": "Cosmetic ingredient in Australia, so confirm the extract's AICIS Inventory status with the supplier. Exporting some wild-harvested native plant material needs an EPBC wildlife trade approval.", "claims_caution": "Cosmetic claims include 'brightens the look of skin' and 'antioxidant-rich', but vitamin C comparisons with oranges describe the fruit, not the product, and content claims need finished-product testing. Use Indigenous knowledge in storytelling only with consent." }, "australian_note": "Wild-harvested by Aboriginal communities in the Northern Territory and the Kimberley, including NAAKPA, a cooperative of Aboriginal-owned enterprises harvesting up to 20 tonnes a year, so ask suppliers to document origin and benefit-sharing.", "sources": [ "https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC10056586/", "https://www.austrade.gov.au/en/news-and-analysis/news/naakpa-harvests-plum-rewards-for-first-nations-producers", "https://www.clariant.com/es/Solutions/Products/2025/08/12/11/24/SuperoxC-AF--Skincare", "https://www.legislation.gov.au/F2005B02138/latest/text", "https://www.nmpa.gov.cn/xxgk/ggtg/hzhpggtg/jmhzhptg/20250624153604180.html", "https://www.gov.cn/zhengce/content/2020-06/29/content_5522593.htm", "https://www.cbd.int/abs/nagoya-protocol/signatories/" ], "use_level_pct": { "min": 0.5, "max": 3 }, "ph": { "min": 3.5, "max": 5.5 }, "solubility_tags": [ "water" ], "sensitivities": [ "oxygen", "light", "high-ph", "metal-ions" ], "packaging_icons": [ "airless-pump", "tube", "pump-bottle" ], "regional": [ { "market": "Australia", "note": "Not on the EPBC exempt list, so exporting the fruit or extract needs a wildlife trade permit from an approved harvest source. Aboriginal-harvest or benefit-sharing claims must be provable under consumer law." }, { "market": "China", "note": "Listed in China's IECIC as Terminalia Ferdinandiana Fruit Extract, but whitening or spot-fading claims make the product a special cosmetic needing NMPA registration with human efficacy testing." }, { "market": "European Union", "note": "Listed in CosIng with no EU restriction. Australia has signed but not ratified the Nagoya Protocol, so EU access-and-benefit-sharing due diligence does not apply to Australian supply." }, { "market": "Climate", "note": "Its vitamin C breaks down faster in heat, so for hot or tropical markets use airless packs, avoid hot transit and expect earlier browning." } ] }, { "slug": "macadamia-oil", "name": "Macadamia oil", "inci": "Macadamia Integrifolia Seed Oil", "aka": [ "Macadamia nut oil", "Queensland nut oil", "Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil" ], "group": "australian", "family": "Lipid", "supplied_as": "liquid", "origin": "plant-derived", "one_liner": "A light, silky oil from Australia's native nut, rich in palmitoleic acid and slow to go rancid.", "plain_explainer": "Macadamia oil is pressed from the nuts of a rainforest tree native to south-east Queensland and northern New South Wales. It absorbs readily and leaves skin and hair soft without heaviness. It contains palmitoleic acid, a fatty acid also found in skin's own oils.", "good_for": [ "Dry skin", "Dry hair", "Frizz" ], "typical_use_level": "2–10%", "use_level_note": "Creams and lotions use 2–10% as a light emollient; body, hair and massage oils use it at up to 100%.", "how_it_works": "The oil is mostly oleic acid plus palmitoleic acid, with very little fragile polyunsaturated fat. It forms a light film that softens skin, slows water loss and smooths the hair surface to reduce frizz.", "scores": { "evidence": { "score": 3, "note": "Emollient action is well understood, but specific trials are few." }, "gentleness": { "score": 4, "note": "Very low irritation, though tree-nut origin may concern some." }, "formulation_difficulty": { "score": 1, "note": "Simple oil-phase ingredient with good oxidative stability." }, "cost": { "score": 3, "note": "Above commodity oils, especially Australian cold-pressed grades." }, "popularity": { "score": 3, "note": "Steady, less trend-driven use in hair oils and body care." } }, "pairs_well_with": [ "Shea butter", "Vitamin E", "Kakadu plum", "Lemon myrtle" ], "avoid_with": [ "Unrefined grades in fragrance-free products (nutty odour)", "Allergen-free positioning without supplier protein data (tree-nut origin)" ], "formats": [ "body-oil", "face-oil", "hair-oil", "body-cream", "hand-cream", "lip-balm", "conditioner" ], "categories": [ "body", "skincare", "haircare" ], "in_the_lab": { "solubility": "Oil phase. Blends readily with other oils.", "ph_range": "Not applicable (oil phase).", "stability": "Add 0.05–0.1% tocopherol for long shelf lives, though its oleic (about 55–65%) and palmitoleic (about 12–24%) acids and low polyunsaturated content already resist rancidity. Cold-pressed grades carry more colour and odour.", "packaging": "No special needs; avoid prolonged heat.", "regulatory_au": "Cosmetic ingredient in Australia, with no restriction. CIR (2017) assessed plant-derived fatty acid oils, including macadamia, as safe in cosmetics.", "claims_caution": "Cosmetic claims include 'nourishes', 'softens' and 'adds shine', and say it contains a fatty acid found in skin's own oils rather than that it matches them. Consider tree-nut information on pack." }, "australian_note": "Grown commercially around Bundaberg and the Northern Rivers, with a 2025 crop of 43,800 tonnes in-shell, but South Africa is also a major producer, so request Australian-origin documentation.", "sources": [ "https://trade.australian-macadamias.org/2025-australian-macadamia-crop-finalised-following-challenging-season", "https://journals.sagepub.com/doi/10.1177/1091581817740569", "https://www.cosmeticsbusiness.com/news/article_page/The_magic_of_Macadamia/101653", "https://www.legislation.gov.au/F2005B02138/latest/text", "https://www.nmpa.gov.cn/xxgk/ggtg/hzhpggtg/jmhzhptg/20250624153604180.html" ], "use_level_pct": { "min": 2, "max": 10 }, "ph": null, "solubility_tags": [ "oil" ], "sensitivities": [ "oxygen", "heat" ], "packaging_icons": [ "bottle", "pump-bottle", "dropper-bottle" ], "regional": [ { "market": "Australia", "note": "Unrestricted cosmetic ingredient in Australia, and macadamia oil is on the EPBC exempt list, so it can be exported without a wildlife trade permit." }, { "market": "China", "note": "Listed in China's IECIC as Macadamia Integrifolia Seed Oil, so it needs no new-ingredient filing with NMPA." }, { "market": "United States", "note": "The US Cosmetic Ingredient Review panel (2017) assessed plant-derived fatty acid oils, macadamia included, as safe in cosmetics as used." } ] }, { "slug": "lemon-myrtle", "name": "Lemon myrtle", "inci": "Backhousia Citriodora Leaf Oil", "aka": [ "Lemon-scented myrtle", "Backhousia citriodora" ], "group": "australian", "family": "Botanical", "supplied_as": "liquid", "origin": "plant-derived", "one_liner": "A native rainforest leaf with a bright lemon scent, used in fresh, cleansing body and hand care.", "plain_explainer": "Lemon myrtle is a rainforest tree from coastal Queensland whose leaves are distilled into a lemon-scented essential oil. The oil is mostly citral, which gives it a bright, clean scent and a fresh, cleansing feel. It gives hand washes, body washes and deodorants a distinctly Australian character.", "good_for": [ "Body odour", "Oily skin", "Skin refreshment" ], "typical_use_level": "0.1–1%", "use_level_note": "Washes and soaps use up to about 1% for a strong lemon scent; body lotions about 0.1–0.15%, and deodorants only a trace.", "how_it_works": "Citral, made up of geranial and neral, disrupts microbes in lab tests. Neat, the oil is harsh on skin cells, so finished products rely on it for fragrance and a fresh, cleansing feel.", "scores": { "evidence": { "score": 3, "note": "Good lab antimicrobial and toxicity data, but few skin studies." }, "gentleness": { "score": 2, "note": "Citral is a known skin sensitiser, so keep levels low." }, "formulation_difficulty": { "score": 3, "note": "Citral breaks down in acidic and alkaline bases, shifting scent." }, "cost": { "score": 2, "note": "Moderate, as plantation supply keeps the price reasonable." }, "popularity": { "score": 3, "note": "A familiar Australian scent in hand, body and home care." } }, "pairs_well_with": [ "Tea tree oil", "Macadamia oil", "Aloe vera", "Finger lime" ], "avoid_with": [ "Baby products (citral can sensitise)", "High leave-on levels (citral sensitisation)", "Strongly acidic or alkaline bases (citral breakdown)" ], "formats": [ "hand-wash", "body-wash", "bar-soap", "deodorant", "body-lotion", "shampoo" ], "categories": [ "body", "haircare" ], "in_the_lab": { "solubility": "Oil phase, or solubilise into water-based products. Water-soluble leaf extracts are also available.", "ph_range": "Ideally 5–7; citral breaks down at low pH and in alkaline soap.", "stability": "Add below 40 °C with tocopherol or BHT, and expect the scent to fade or shift over shelf life.", "packaging": "Opaque, well-sealed packs.", "regulatory_au": "Cosmetic ingredient in Australia, and citral is Schedule 5 only above 5% in cosmetic preparations, so finished products at normal levels are unscheduled. Citral is also an EU-labelled fragrance allergen with IFRA limits.", "claims_caution": "Cosmetic claims include 'cleansing', 'refreshing' and 'naturally fragranced'. 'Antibacterial' must meet the Excluded Goods conditions, and 'antiseptic' or 'antifungal' are therapeutic (TGA)." }, "australian_note": "Grown in plantations in Queensland and on the NSW north coast, with certified organic supply available, and myrtle rust is the main supply risk.", "sources": [ "https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/11893412/", "https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC9370046/", "https://agrifutures.com.au/product/focus-on-lemon-myrtle", "https://www.legislation.gov.au/F2026L00633/asmade/text", "https://www.legislation.gov.au/F2026L01327/latest/text", "https://ifrafragrance.org/docs/default-source/51st-amendment/ifra-standards---51st-amendment.pdf", "https://eur-lex.europa.eu/eli/reg/2023/1545/oj", "https://www.nmpa.gov.cn/xxgk/ggtg/hzhpggtg/jmhzhptg/20250624153604180.html" ], "use_level_pct": { "min": 0.1, "max": 1 }, "ph": { "min": 5, "max": 7 }, "solubility_tags": [ "oil" ], "sensitivities": [ "oxygen", "heat", "light", "low-ph", "high-ph" ], "packaging_icons": [ "pump-bottle", "squeeze-bottle", "bar" ], "regional": [ { "market": "Australia", "note": "Citral is Schedule 5 in cosmetic and household cleaning preparations above 5%, so neat lemon myrtle oil (about 90% citral) sold for those uses is scheduled, while finished products at normal levels are not. The oil is on the EPBC exempt list for export." }, { "market": "European Union", "note": "Citral must be named in the ingredient list above 0.001% leave-on or 0.01% rinse-off, as in Canada. Regulation (EU) 2026/909 now caps citral, in line with IFRA, at 0.15% in leave-on skin products such as body lotion, 1.2% in rinse-off products and 0.032% in deodorants, for products placed on the market from 1 January 2027." }, { "market": "China", "note": "Listed in China's IECIC as Backhousia Citriodora Leaf Oil, so it needs no new-ingredient filing with NMPA." }, { "market": "Climate", "note": "Citral breaks down with heat and light, so in hot, sunny markets the lemon scent fades faster and can develop off-notes; use opaque packs and an antioxidant." } ] }, { "slug": "finger-lime", "name": "Finger lime", "inci": "Microcitrus Australasica Fruit Extract", "aka": [ "Caviar lime", "Citrus australasica", "Citrus Australasica Fruit Extract" ], "group": "australian", "family": "Botanical", "supplied_as": "liquid", "origin": "plant-derived", "one_liner": "Native 'caviar lime' extract with natural fruit acids, used for gentle exfoliation and smoother, brighter-looking skin.", "plain_explainer": "Finger lime is a native citrus from the subtropical rainforests of south-east Queensland and northern New South Wales, known for its caviar-like pearls. Extracts carry natural fruit acids and are offered as a gentle alternative to stronger AHAs. They suit face and body products aiming for smoother, more radiant-looking skin.", "good_for": [ "Dull skin", "Rough texture", "Sensitive skin" ], "typical_use_level": "1–3%", "use_level_note": "Serums, toners and cleansers use 1–3% for gentle surface exfoliation; strengths differ between supplier extracts, so follow the data sheet.", "how_it_works": "Finger lime pulp contains citric and other fruit acids that loosen dead surface cells. One supplier (Clariant, Lime Pearl AF) attributes its extract's gentle exfoliation to stimulating synthesis of TRPV3, an ion channel in surface skin cells. Independent studies are limited, so regard it as a mild texture booster.", "scores": { "evidence": { "score": 2, "note": "Supplier and lab data, but little independent clinical work." }, "gentleness": { "score": 4, "note": "Milder than conventional AHAs at typical levels." }, "formulation_difficulty": { "score": 2, "note": "Glycerin–water extract to add at cool-down and preserve well." }, "cost": { "score": 3, "note": "Mid-priced speciality extract." }, "popularity": { "score": 3, "note": "Growing use in Australian and global launches, but still niche." } }, "pairs_well_with": [ "Kakadu plum", "Niacinamide", "Glycerin" ], "avoid_with": [ "Layering with strong AHA or BHA products (combination not yet tested)" ], "formats": [ "serum", "toner", "body-serum", "body-lotion", "cleanser", "mask" ], "categories": [ "skincare", "body" ], "in_the_lab": { "solubility": "Water phase, as a glycerin–water extract.", "ph_range": "4–6.", "stability": "Add below 40 °C and preserve the finished formula well, as supplier grades are often preservative-free and the extract is sugar-rich.", "packaging": "No special needs; opaque packs preferred.", "regulatory_au": "Cosmetic ingredient in Australia, so confirm AICIS Inventory status with the supplier. Clariant's Lime Pearl AF is COSMOS- and NATRUE-approved.", "claims_caution": "Cosmetic claims include 'gently exfoliates' and 'smoother, brighter-looking skin', but avoid claims of skin renewal or structural change, which are therapeutic. Present supplier data as supplier data." }, "australian_note": "Orchards along the east coast of NSW and Queensland, and now WA, produce about 100 tonnes a year, but it is also grown in the US and Europe, so specify Australian-grown fruit for a local claim.", "sources": [ "https://www.clariant.com/en/Solutions/Products/2025/08/13/07/52/Lime-Pearl-AF", "https://agrifutures.com.au/product/australian-native-finger-lime-rde-plan-2023-2028/", "https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC7143387/", "https://www.legislation.gov.au/F2005B02138/latest/text", "https://www.nmpa.gov.cn/xxgk/ggtg/hzhpggtg/jmhzhptg/20250624153604180.html", "https://www.gov.cn/zhengce/content/2020-06/29/content_5522593.htm", "https://ec.europa.eu/growth/tools-databases/cosing/details/88738" ], "use_level_pct": { "min": 1, "max": 3 }, "ph": { "min": 4, "max": 6 }, "solubility_tags": [ "water" ], "sensitivities": [ "heat" ], "packaging_icons": [ "dropper-bottle", "pump-bottle", "bottle" ], "regional": [ { "market": "Australia", "note": "The species is not on the EPBC exempt list, but extract from Plant Breeder's Rights or cultivated-only varieties is; other material needs an export permit from an approved source. Confirm AICIS status." }, { "market": "China", "note": "Not in China's IECIC, but a Hainan-grown finger lime powder was filed with NMPA as a new ingredient in 2023 (filing 20230034), with three years of safety monitoring before it can join the IECIC. Other grades may need their own filing, so confirm status with the supplier before products are sold in China." }, { "market": "European Union", "note": "Listed in CosIng as Microcitrus Australasica Fruit Extract, with no EU restriction or labelling requirement of its own." } ] }, { "slug": "davidson-plum", "name": "Davidson plum", "inci": "Davidsonia Jerseyana Fruit Extract", "aka": [ "Davidson's plum", "Davidsonia", "Davidsonia jerseyana" ], "group": "australian", "family": "Antioxidant", "supplied_as": "liquid", "origin": "plant-derived", "one_liner": "A tart, deep-purple rainforest plum rich in anthocyanin antioxidants, used for radiant-looking skin and natural colour.", "plain_explainer": "Davidson plum is a sour, dark-purple fruit from the rainforests of northern New South Wales and Queensland. It is rich in anthocyanins, the pigments that colour berries, and other plant antioxidants. Extracts appear in serums, masks and body washes, adding antioxidants and a natural rosy tint.", "good_for": [ "Dull skin", "Radiance", "Antioxidant care" ], "typical_use_level": "0.5–3%", "use_level_note": "Serums, masks and washes use 0.5–3% as an antioxidant fruit extract; higher levels add more red colour.", "how_it_works": "Anthocyanins and other polyphenols neutralise free radicals in lab tests, which is why the extract is used as an antioxidant ingredient. In a 2020 study of three native fruits, Davidson plum (named there as D. pruriens, a related species) had the highest iron-reducing (FRAP) antioxidant power, ahead of finger lime and pepperberry.", "scores": { "evidence": { "score": 2, "note": "Antioxidant activity in lab studies, with no published skin trials." }, "gentleness": { "score": 4, "note": "No irritation concerns reported, though acidic extracts may tingle." }, "formulation_difficulty": { "score": 3, "note": "Its red pigment turns blue-grey near neutral pH and fades in light." }, "cost": { "score": 3, "note": "Mid-priced, as orchard supply is small." }, "popularity": { "score": 2, "note": "Niche, used mainly by Australian natural brands." } }, "pairs_well_with": [ "Kakadu plum", "Vitamin E", "Glycerin", "Finger lime" ], "avoid_with": [ "Neutral-to-alkaline bases if a red tint is wanted (turns blue-grey)" ], "formats": [ "serum", "mask", "body-wash", "cream", "toner" ], "categories": [ "skincare", "body" ], "in_the_lab": { "solubility": "Water phase, as a glycerin–water extract.", "ph_range": "3–5; the red colour is strongest towards pH 3 and fades by pH 4–5, turning purple to blue-grey nearer neutral.", "stability": "Add below 40 °C, and choose a grade preserved with sorbate and benzoate or order it unpreserved to suit the formula's own preservation.", "packaging": "Opaque packs, as strong light through clear packs fades the colour.", "regulatory_au": "Cosmetic ingredient in Australia, so confirm AICIS Inventory status with the supplier, who lists CAS 1174401-42-3.", "claims_caution": "Cosmetic claims include 'antioxidant-rich' and 'radiant-looking skin', but avoid 'anti-ageing at the cellular level', which is therapeutic. Do not present lab antioxidant data as clinical results." }, "australian_note": "The NSW species (D. jerseyana) is endangered and its fruit cannot be collected from the wild in NSW without a permit, so supply comes from cultivated orchards in the Northern Rivers and Queensland.", "sources": [ "https://www.nativeextracts.com/products/davidson-plum-cellular-extract", "https://threatenedspecies.bionet.nsw.gov.au/profile.aspx?id=10208", "https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC7143387/", "https://www.dcceew.gov.au/environment/wildlife-trade/natives", "https://www.nmpa.gov.cn/xxgk/ggtg/hzhpggtg/jmhzhptg/20250624153604180.html", "https://www.gov.cn/zhengce/content/2020-06/29/content_5522593.htm" ], "use_level_pct": { "min": 0.5, "max": 3 }, "ph": { "min": 3, "max": 5 }, "solubility_tags": [ "water" ], "sensitivities": [ "light", "high-ph", "heat" ], "packaging_icons": [ "airless-pump", "tube", "pump-bottle" ], "regional": [ { "market": "Australia", "note": "Davidsonia jerseyana is listed as endangered, so supply must be cultivated and exports need a wildlife trade permit backed by an approved propagation source. Confirm AICIS status with the supplier." }, { "market": "China", "note": "Not in China's IECIC, so it must be notified to NMPA as a new ingredient before use; if it is used to colour the product, it needs full NMPA registration instead." }, { "market": "European Union", "note": "Listed in CosIng as Davidsonia Jerseyana Fruit Extract, with no EU restriction or labelling requirement of its own." }, { "market": "Climate", "note": "Its anthocyanin colour fades with heat and strong UV, so for hot or high-UV markets use opaque packs and keep the formula towards the low end of pH 3–5." } ] }, { "slug": "tasmanian-pepperberry", "name": "Tasmanian pepperberry", "inci": "Tasmannia Lanceolata Leaf Extract", "aka": [ "Mountain pepper", "Tasmannia lanceolata", "Tasmannia Lanceolata Fruit/Leaf Extract" ], "group": "australian", "family": "Botanical", "supplied_as": "liquid", "origin": "plant-derived", "one_liner": "A native mountain pepper extract used to calm the look of redness and comfort reactive skin.", "plain_explainer": "Tasmanian pepperberry is a shrub from the cool forests of Tasmania and south-east Australia, also used as a bush spice. Its leaf and berry extracts contain polygodial and antioxidant polyphenols. Suppliers offer it as a soothing active for sensitive skin, after-shave and after-sun care, and for the look of stretch marks.", "good_for": [ "Sensitive skin", "Redness", "Stretch marks" ], "typical_use_level": "0.5–2%", "use_level_note": "Calming serums, creams and after-sun products use 0.5–2%; follow the supplier's recommended dose for its grade.", "how_it_works": "Supplier studies report that the leaf extract dampens TRPV1, a skin sensor behind stinging and burning sensations, and lowers some markers linked to skin discomfort. A placebo-controlled trial in 29 women, run by an ingredient company, found smoother, firmer-looking stretch marks after eight weeks.", "scores": { "evidence": { "score": 3, "note": "One industry-run randomised trial plus supplier and lab data." }, "gentleness": { "score": 4, "note": "Positioned for sensitive skin, but spice extracts are pungent." }, "formulation_difficulty": { "score": 2, "note": "Simple glycerin–water extract, added at cool-down." }, "cost": { "score": 3, "note": "Mid-priced speciality active with seasonal wild supply." }, "popularity": { "score": 2, "note": "Niche, used by some Australian and international brands." } }, "pairs_well_with": [ "Panthenol", "Aloe vera", "Niacinamide", "Ceramides" ], "avoid_with": [ "Culinary pepperberry extracts in leave-ons (pungent)" ], "formats": [ "serum", "cream", "after-sun", "body-lotion", "aftershave-balm" ], "categories": [ "skincare", "body", "suncare" ], "in_the_lab": { "solubility": "Water phase for the glycerin–water leaf extract. CO2 extracts are oil-soluble and go into the oil phase.", "ph_range": "Follow supplier guidance; typically 4.5–7.", "stability": "Add below 40 °C and preserve the finished formula fully; Clariant's Tazman Pepper C is preservative-free, while some suppliers' standard grades contain sorbate and benzoate.", "packaging": "No special needs.", "regulatory_au": "Cosmetic ingredient in Australia, so confirm AICIS Inventory status with the supplier. Clariant's Tazman Pepper C is COSMOS- and NATRUE-approved.", "claims_caution": "Cosmetic claims include 'calms the look of redness', 'comforts sensitive skin' and 'improves the appearance of stretch marks', while 'reduces inflammation', 'relieves pain' or 'treats dermatitis' are therapeutic (TGA)." }, "australian_note": "Most Tasmanian supply is still wild-harvested by licensed collectors, so drought and bushfire can cut harvests, though orchards are emerging in the south of the state.", "sources": [ "https://www.clariant.com/en/Solutions/Products/2025/08/12/11/11/Tazman-Pepper-C--Skincare", "https://doi.org/10.1111/jocd.13780", "https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC7143387/", "https://www.legislation.gov.au/F2005B02138/latest/text", "https://www.legislation.gov.au/F2025N00425/asmade", "https://www.nmpa.gov.cn/xxgk/ggtg/hzhpggtg/jmhzhptg/20250624153604180.html", "https://ec.europa.eu/growth/tools-databases/cosing/details/82756" ], "use_level_pct": { "min": 0.5, "max": 2 }, "ph": { "min": 4.5, "max": 7 }, "solubility_tags": [ "water", "oil" ], "sensitivities": [ "heat" ], "packaging_icons": [ "pump-bottle", "tube", "airless-pump" ], "regional": [ { "market": "Australia", "note": "Not on the EPBC exempt list, so exporting wild-harvested leaf or extract needs a wildlife trade permit and an approved source, such as an approved wildlife trade operation." }, { "market": "China", "note": "Listed in China's IECIC as Tasmannia Lanceolata Leaf Extract, so it needs no new-ingredient filing with NMPA." }, { "market": "European Union", "note": "Listed in CosIng as Tasmannia Lanceolata Leaf Extract, with no EU restriction or labelling requirement of its own." } ] }, { "slug": "eucalyptus-oil", "name": "Eucalyptus oil", "inci": "Eucalyptus Polybractea Branch/Leaf Oil", "aka": [ "Blue mallee oil", "Eucalyptus Oil (generic INCI)", "Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Oil (blue gum, mostly imported)" ], "group": "australian", "family": "Botanical", "supplied_as": "liquid", "origin": "plant-derived", "one_liner": "A cooling, fresh native essential oil used in body washes, foot care and invigorating scalp products.", "plain_explainer": "Eucalyptus oil is steam-distilled from eucalyptus leaves and is rich in 1,8-cineole, which gives its familiar cool, clean smell. In skin and body care it is used mainly for fragrance and a fresh, tingling feel, with some cleansing and deodorising support.", "good_for": [ "Body odour", "Foot odour", "Scalp refreshment" ], "typical_use_level": "0.1–1%", "use_level_note": "Washes, soaps and bath soaks use 0.5–1% for a strong, fresh scent; leave-on balms and foot creams use about 0.1–0.5%.", "how_it_works": "1,8-cineole (eucalyptol), the oil's main component, creates a cooling sensation on skin and shows antimicrobial activity in lab studies. In a finished product this gives a fresh, invigorating feel and helps keep skin and feet smelling fresh.", "scores": { "evidence": { "score": 2, "note": "Good lab antimicrobial data, but little clinical skin evidence." }, "gentleness": { "score": 2, "note": "Concentrated oil irritates and can sensitise, so keep levels low." }, "formulation_difficulty": { "score": 2, "note": "Easy to solubilise at low levels but volatile, so add at cool-down." }, "cost": { "score": 1, "note": "Inexpensive, though Australian-grown oil costs more than imported." }, "popularity": { "score": 3, "note": "Common in body washes, foot care and scalp products." } }, "pairs_well_with": [ "Tea tree oil", "Menthol", "Peppermint oil", "Lemon myrtle" ], "avoid_with": [ "Products for babies and young children (can irritate; 1,8-cineole can trigger airway spasm in under-twos)", "Leave-on use near the eyes (can irritate)", "High levels in leave-on products (irritates and can sensitise)" ], "formats": [ "body-wash", "foot-cream", "shampoo", "scalp-scrub", "bar-soap", "bath-soak", "balm" ], "categories": [ "body", "haircare" ], "in_the_lab": { "solubility": "Oil phase, or solubilise into water-based products.", "ph_range": "Not pH-dependent.", "stability": "Add below 40 °C and store sealed and cool, as the oil, often 70–90% 1,8-cineole, is volatile and prone to oxidation.", "packaging": "Well-sealed packs. Neat oil carries Poisons Standard packaging and labelling requirements.", "regulatory_au": "Poisons Standard Schedule 6 applies except to preparations with 25% or less and to packs of up to 15 mL (or 25 mL with a child-resistant cap) fitted with a restricted flow insert and warnings, so finished cosmetics are normally unscheduled. It is a cosmetic ingredient (AICIS), and the INCI name varies by species, so match it to the supplier's oil.", "claims_caution": "Cosmetic claims include 'refreshing', 'invigorating' and 'cooling', while 'relieves muscle pain', 'clears congestion' or 'antiseptic' are therapeutic and need ARTG entry (TGA)." }, "australian_note": "Australian production centres on cultivated blue mallee around Bendigo in Victoria and West Wyalong in NSW, but most oil traded worldwide is blue gum oil from China and elsewhere, so specify Australian-distilled oil for a local claim.", "sources": [ "https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/28758221/", "https://fgb.com.au/our-story/", "https://www.legislation.gov.au/F2026L00633/asmade/text", "https://www.tga.gov.au/sites/default/files/2024-06/cosmetics-therapeutic-goods-guidance-for-advertisers-suppliers.pdf", "https://www.legislation.gov.au/F2026L01327/latest/text", "https://eur-lex.europa.eu/eli/reg/2023/1545/oj", "https://www.nmpa.gov.cn/xxgk/ggtg/hzhpggtg/jmhzhptg/20250624153604180.html", "https://www.accessdata.fda.gov/drugsatfda_docs/omuf/Order/OTC%20Monograph_M012-Cough%20Cold%20Allergy%20Bronchodilator%20and%20Antiasthmatic%20Drug%20Products%20for%20OTC%20Human%20Use%2010.14.2022_0.pdf" ], "use_level_pct": { "min": 0.1, "max": 1 }, "ph": null, "solubility_tags": [ "oil" ], "sensitivities": [ "oxygen", "heat" ], "packaging_icons": [ "squeeze-bottle", "bar", "tin" ], "regional": [ { "market": "Australia", "note": "Neat oil is Schedule 6 and needs a child-resistant cap on packs up to 2 L; small packs with a restricted flow insert and warnings, and products at 25% or less, are exempt. Congestion or muscle-pain claims make it a TGA medicine." }, { "market": "European Union", "note": "Eucalyptus globulus oil must be named as an allergen above 0.001% leave-on or 0.01% rinse-off. Blue mallee oil and eucalyptol are not listed, though the oil's limonene and pinene may need naming." }, { "market": "China", "note": "Eucalyptus Polybractea oil is not in China's IECIC, though Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Oil and eucalyptol are; use a listed oil or notify NMPA of a new ingredient." }, { "market": "United States", "note": "Cough or congestion claims make it an OTC drug, and FDA's monograph allows eucalyptus oil only at 1.2–1.3% with camphor and menthol in an ointment." } ] }, { "slug": "quandong", "name": "Quandong", "inci": "Santalum Acuminatum Fruit Extract", "aka": [ "Desert quandong", "Native peach", "Santalum acuminatum" ], "group": "australian", "family": "Antioxidant", "supplied_as": "liquid", "origin": "plant-derived", "one_liner": "A bright red desert peach whose extract carries antioxidant polyphenols; evidence is lab-based only.", "plain_explainer": "Quandong, or desert peach, is the tart red fruit of a semi-parasitic shrub from arid southern Australia and a traditional Aboriginal food. It is rich in antioxidant polyphenols, and extracts suit antioxidant serums, body washes and masks.", "good_for": [ "Dull skin", "Radiance", "Antioxidant care" ], "typical_use_level": "0.5–3%", "use_level_note": "Serums, masks, creams and washes use 0.5–3% as an antioxidant fruit extract.", "how_it_works": "Its phenolic compounds include rutin and chlorogenic acid, and in a 2010 lab study of eight commercially grown native fruits, quandong showed higher antioxidant activity than blueberry. These antioxidants may help protect skin from everyday oxidative stress, but this has not been tested in people.", "scores": { "evidence": { "score": 1, "note": "Lab antioxidant data only, with no published skin studies." }, "gentleness": { "score": 4, "note": "No irritation concerns reported, but little data beyond food use." }, "formulation_difficulty": { "score": 2, "note": "Glycerin–water extract to add at cool-down, and colour may drift." }, "cost": { "score": 3, "note": "Mid-priced, as supply is small and seasonal." }, "popularity": { "score": 2, "note": "Niche, used by Australian natural brands and a mass-market wash." } }, "pairs_well_with": [ "Desert lime", "Kakadu plum", "Vitamin E", "Glycerin" ], "avoid_with": [], "formats": [ "serum", "body-wash", "mask", "cream", "lotion" ], "categories": [ "skincare", "body" ], "in_the_lab": { "solubility": "Water phase, as a glycerin–water extract.", "ph_range": "4–6.", "stability": "Add below 40 °C, and choose a grade preserved with sorbate and benzoate or an unpreserved one only where the formula is robustly preserved. Colour may shift over shelf life.", "packaging": "Opaque packs preferred.", "regulatory_au": "Cosmetic ingredient in Australia, so confirm AICIS Inventory status with the supplier.", "claims_caution": "Honest claims include 'with Australian quandong' and 'antioxidant-rich fruit extract', without presenting lab antioxidant data as clinical results. Avoid collagen, firming or anti-ageing claims, as no published study supports them." }, "australian_note": "Most fruit has come from wild harvest in arid South Australia, about three-quarters according to older CSIRO material, and quandong moth and variable seasons limit supply.", "sources": [ "https://doi.org/10.1016/j.foodchem.2010.05.060", "https://www.nativeextracts.com/products/quandong-cellular-extract", "https://www.nativeextracts.com/blogs/news/native-extracts-x-colgate-palmolives-skin-food-range", "https://ausbushfoods.com/bushfoodsonline/reports/Fact%20Sheets/csiro%20quandong.htm", "https://www.legislation.gov.au/F2005B02138/latest/text", "https://www.nmpa.gov.cn/xxgk/ggtg/hzhpggtg/jmhzhptg/20250624153604180.html", "https://www.gov.cn/zhengce/content/2020-06/29/content_5522593.htm", "https://ec.europa.eu/growth/tools-databases/cosing/details/59716" ], "use_level_pct": { "min": 0.5, "max": 3 }, "ph": { "min": 4, "max": 6 }, "solubility_tags": [ "water" ], "sensitivities": [ "heat", "light" ], "packaging_icons": [ "pump-bottle", "tube", "squeeze-bottle" ], "regional": [ { "market": "Australia", "note": "Not on the EPBC exempt list, so exporting wild-harvested fruit or extract needs a wildlife trade permit and an approved source. Confirm AICIS status with the supplier." }, { "market": "China", "note": "Not in China's IECIC, so it is a new ingredient there and must be notified to NMPA, with three years of annual safety reporting, before products using it can be sold in China." }, { "market": "European Union", "note": "Listed in CosIng as Santalum Acuminatum Fruit Extract, with no EU restriction or labelling requirement of its own." } ] }, { "slug": "desert-lime", "name": "Desert lime", "inci": "Citrus Glauca Fruit Extract", "aka": [ "Wild lime", "Outback lime", "Citrus glauca" ], "group": "australian", "family": "Antioxidant", "supplied_as": "liquid", "origin": "plant-derived", "one_liner": "A tiny, tangy outback lime rich in vitamin C, used in fresh-scented face and body products for a brighter look.", "plain_explainer": "Desert lime is a small, hardy citrus native to semi-arid inland Queensland, New South Wales and South Australia. Its extract brings a fresh citrus character to serums, mists and body washes.", "good_for": [ "Dull skin", "Radiance", "Antioxidant care" ], "typical_use_level": "0.5–3%", "use_level_note": "Serums, mists and toners use 0.5–3% as a fresh, vitamin C-rich fruit extract; follow the supplier's data sheet for its grade.", "how_it_works": "Desert lime contains vitamin C (University of Queensland work reported more than six times the level in Tahitian lime) plus flavonoids such as rutin and naringin. These antioxidants and mild fruit acids could support a fresher, brighter-looking complexion. No published study has tested the extract on skin.", "scores": { "evidence": { "score": 1, "note": "Composition and lab antioxidant data only, with no skin studies." }, "gentleness": { "score": 4, "note": "Generally well tolerated, though acidic extracts may tingle." }, "formulation_difficulty": { "score": 2, "note": "Glycerin–water extract whose vitamin C fades with heat and air." }, "cost": { "score": 3, "note": "Mid-priced, as supply is small." }, "popularity": { "score": 2, "note": "Niche, used by Australian natural brands and a mass-market wash." } }, "pairs_well_with": [ "Finger lime", "Quandong", "Kakadu plum", "Niacinamide" ], "avoid_with": [ "High-pH bases (speed vitamin C loss)" ], "formats": [ "serum", "mist", "toner", "body-wash", "lotion" ], "categories": [ "skincare", "body" ], "in_the_lab": { "solubility": "Water phase, as a glycerin–water extract.", "ph_range": "3.5–5.5.", "stability": "Add below 40 °C and limit air exposure in processing and pack. Supplier grades come preserved with sorbate and benzoate or unpreserved to order.", "packaging": "Opaque or airless packs.", "regulatory_au": "Cosmetic ingredient in Australia, so confirm AICIS Inventory status with the supplier, who lists CAS 1174331-62-4.", "claims_caution": "Honest claims include 'with Australian desert lime', 'fresh, zesty' and 'from a fruit naturally rich in vitamin C'. Vitamin C content claims for the product need testing, and 'reduces pigmentation' is therapeutic (TGA)." }, "australian_note": "Wild fruit varies in quality and volume, so fruit from grafted orchards is preferred. Plantings were established near Roma and Gympie in Queensland and in Victoria, SA and WA, though some, including Roma, have since closed.", "sources": [ "https://www.nativeextracts.com/products/desert-lime-cellular-extract", "https://doi.org/10.1016/j.foodchem.2010.05.060", "https://www.publications.qld.gov.au/dataset/e4735717-754b-48d5-9348-01f87a5096a2/resource/cf0dd02a-12cf-43fa-ae1c-eb45a79e8725/download/qmdb-crop-summarydesert-lime.pdf", "https://www.legislation.gov.au/F2005B02138/latest/text", "https://www.nmpa.gov.cn/xxgk/ggtg/hzhpggtg/jmhzhptg/20250624153604180.html", "https://www.gov.cn/zhengce/content/2020-06/29/content_5522593.htm", "https://ec.europa.eu/growth/tools-databases/cosing/details/55372" ], "use_level_pct": { "min": 0.5, "max": 3 }, "ph": { "min": 3.5, "max": 5.5 }, "solubility_tags": [ "water" ], "sensitivities": [ "oxygen", "light", "heat", "high-ph" ], "packaging_icons": [ "airless-pump", "spray-bottle", "pump-bottle" ], "regional": [ { "market": "Australia", "note": "The species is not on the EPBC exempt list, but extract from Plant Breeder's Rights or cultivated-only varieties is; other material needs an export permit from an approved source. Confirm AICIS status." }, { "market": "China", "note": "Not in China's IECIC, so it is a new ingredient there and must be notified to NMPA, with three years of annual safety reporting, before products using it can be sold in China." }, { "market": "European Union", "note": "Listed in CosIng as Citrus Glauca Fruit Extract, with no EU restriction or labelling requirement of its own." } ] }, { "slug": "wattleseed", "name": "Wattleseed", "inci": "Acacia Victoriae Seed Extract", "aka": [ "Wattle seed", "Elegant wattle", "Bardi bush", "Acacia victoriae" ], "group": "australian", "family": "Botanical", "supplied_as": "liquid", "origin": "plant-derived", "one_liner": "A roasted native acacia seed with a coffee-chocolate aroma; in skin care it is mainly a story ingredient.", "plain_explainer": "Wattleseed comes from a few edible Australian acacias, mainly Acacia victoriae, and is a traditional Aboriginal food now roasted and ground as a spice. Extracts carry amino acids and phenolic compounds, and finely ground seed can act as a gentle natural scrub.", "good_for": [ "Rough texture", "Flaky skin", "Dry skin" ], "typical_use_level": "0.5–3%", "use_level_note": "Extracts are used at 0.5–3% in creams, lotions and washes; finely ground roasted seed is used at a few per cent in polishing washes and masks.", "how_it_works": "Wattleseed is rich in protein, fibre and minerals. The extract's amino acids, such as tryptophan, and phenolic compounds may add mild conditioning and antioxidant activity, though no study has tested this on skin. Ground seed works physically, buffing away dry surface flakes.", "scores": { "evidence": { "score": 1, "note": "No published skin studies found, only nutrition and flavour work." }, "gentleness": { "score": 4, "note": "No irritation concerns reported if ground seed is finely milled." }, "formulation_difficulty": { "score": 2, "note": "The extract is simple, but ground seed needs suspending." }, "cost": { "score": 3, "note": "Moderate, with limited, mostly wild-harvested supply." }, "popularity": { "score": 1, "note": "Rare in cosmetics and known mainly as a food ingredient." } }, "pairs_well_with": [ "Macadamia oil", "Shea butter", "Quandong", "Lemon myrtle" ], "avoid_with": [ "Coarse grinds in face products (can irritate if not finely milled)" ], "formats": [ "body-wash", "mask", "cream", "lotion", "balm" ], "categories": [ "body", "skincare" ], "in_the_lab": { "solubility": "Water phase for the glycerin–water extract. Ground seed is insoluble, so suspend it.", "ph_range": "5–7.", "stability": "Add extracts below 40 °C. For ground seed, specify roasted, food-grade, low-bioburden material and test preservation carefully.", "packaging": "No special needs.", "regulatory_au": "Cosmetic ingredient in Australia, and Acacia Victoriae Seed Extract is a listed INCI name, so confirm AICIS Inventory status with the supplier. Only some acacia species are edible, so specify the species.", "claims_caution": "Honest claims include 'with Australian wattleseed' and, for ground seed, 'gently polishes'. No published evidence supports anti-ageing, nourishing or firming claims." }, "australian_note": "Mostly wild-harvested in arid and semi-arid Australia, including under permit in South Australia, with Aboriginal-led harvesting growing, for example through the Wattleseed Collective in the Kimberley.", "sources": [ "https://www.nativeextracts.com/products/wattleseed-cellular-extract", "https://news.uq.edu.au/2024-02-08-uq-research-reveals-nutrition-potential-budding-bushfood", "https://plantnet.rbgsyd.nsw.gov.au/PlantNet/wattle/econ.html", "https://www.legislation.gov.au/F2005B02138/latest/text", "https://www.nmpa.gov.cn/xxgk/ggtg/hzhpggtg/jmhzhptg/20250624153604180.html", "https://www.gov.cn/zhengce/content/2020-06/29/content_5522593.htm", "https://www.cbd.int/abs/nagoya-protocol/signatories/" ], "use_level_pct": { "min": 0.5, "max": 3 }, "ph": { "min": 5, "max": 7 }, "solubility_tags": [ "water", "particulate" ], "sensitivities": [ "heat" ], "packaging_icons": [ "tube", "jar", "squeeze-bottle" ], "regional": [ { "market": "Australia", "note": "Seed is covered by the general seed exemption on the EPBC exempt list, but extracts are not, so exporting an extract of wild-harvested seed needs a wildlife trade permit and an approved source. Aboriginal-harvest claims must be provable under consumer law." }, { "market": "China", "note": "Not in China's IECIC, so it is a new ingredient there and must be notified to NMPA before products using it can be sold in China; the notifier then reports its use and safety to NMPA each year for three years." }, { "market": "European Union", "note": "Listed in CosIng as Acacia Victoriae Seed Extract. Australia has not ratified the Nagoya Protocol, so EU access-and-benefit-sharing due diligence does not apply to Australian supply." } ] }, { "slug": "lilly-pilly", "name": "Lilly pilly", "inci": "Syzygium Luehmannii Fruit Extract", "aka": [ "Riberry", "Small-leaved lilly pilly", "Clove lilli pilli", "Syzygium luehmannii" ], "group": "australian", "family": "Antioxidant", "supplied_as": "liquid", "origin": "plant-derived", "one_liner": "A small, spicy rainforest berry rich in anthocyanins, used for antioxidant care and a native story.", "plain_explainer": "Riberry is the small red fruit of Syzygium luehmannii, a lilly pilly tree from the rainforests of Queensland and northern New South Wales, with a clove-like flavour. Its colour comes from anthocyanins, the antioxidant pigments also found in berries. Extracts appear in antioxidant serums and creams.", "good_for": [ "Dull skin", "Radiance", "Antioxidant care" ], "typical_use_level": "0.5–3%", "use_level_note": "Serums, creams and masks use 0.5–3% as an antioxidant berry extract; higher levels add more pink-red colour.", "how_it_works": "Riberry contains anthocyanins and other phenolic compounds that neutralise free radicals in lab assays. In principle this helps protect skin from everyday oxidative stress, as with other berry extracts.", "scores": { "evidence": { "score": 1, "note": "Lab composition and antioxidant data only, with no skin studies." }, "gentleness": { "score": 4, "note": "No irritation concerns reported at typical levels." }, "formulation_difficulty": { "score": 3, "note": "Its berry colour shifts with pH and fades in light." }, "cost": { "score": 3, "note": "Mid-priced, as orchard supply is small." }, "popularity": { "score": 2, "note": "Niche, appearing in some Australian brands and supplier blends." } }, "pairs_well_with": [ "Davidson plum", "Kakadu plum", "Vitamin E", "Glycerin" ], "avoid_with": [ "Neutral-to-alkaline bases if colour matters (turns dull purple)" ], "formats": [ "serum", "cream", "mask", "toner", "lotion" ], "categories": [ "skincare", "body" ], "in_the_lab": { "solubility": "Water phase, as a glycerin–water extract.", "ph_range": "3–5; the red colour is strongest near pH 3 and fades as pH rises towards 5.", "stability": "Add below 40 °C and keep the formula acidic, as its pigments shift from pink-red to dull purple near neutral.", "packaging": "Opaque packs, as strong light through clear packs fades the colour.", "regulatory_au": "Cosmetic ingredient in Australia, with INCI spelling that varies (Luehmannii or Leuhmannii), so confirm AICIS Inventory status with the supplier.", "claims_caution": "Honest claims include 'with Australian riberry' and 'antioxidant-rich berry extract', without clinical-sounding antioxidant claims. Avoid anti-ageing claims. Any sun-protection claim makes it a sunscreen: primary sunscreens and moisturisers above SPF 15 are therapeutic; moisturisers up to SPF 15 (300 mL or less, not water resistant) and sunscreen lip products and tinted foundations that meet the Determination’s conditions are excluded cosmetics." }, "australian_note": "Grown commercially only on a small scale in Queensland and northern NSW, and exposed to myrtle rust, so supply is limited.", "sources": [ "https://doi.org/10.1016/j.foodchem.2010.05.060", "https://www.agrifutures.com.au/product/Understanding-the-Cropping-Behaviour-of-Riberry-Syzygium-leuhnmannii/", "https://www.nativeextracts.com/collections/australian-native", "https://www.legislation.gov.au/F2005B02138/latest/text", "https://www.nmpa.gov.cn/xxgk/ggtg/hzhpggtg/jmhzhptg/20250624153604180.html", "https://www.gov.cn/zhengce/content/2020-06/29/content_5522593.htm", "https://ec.europa.eu/growth/tools-databases/cosing/details/60009" ], "use_level_pct": { "min": 0.5, "max": 3 }, "ph": { "min": 3, "max": 5 }, "solubility_tags": [ "water" ], "sensitivities": [ "light", "high-ph", "heat" ], "packaging_icons": [ "airless-pump", "tube", "pump-bottle" ], "regional": [ { "market": "Australia", "note": "The species is not on the EPBC exempt list, but extract from Plant Breeder's Rights or cultivated-only varieties is; other material needs an export permit from an approved source. Confirm AICIS status." }, { "market": "China", "note": "Not in China's IECIC, so it must be notified to NMPA as a new ingredient before use; if it is used to colour the product, it needs full NMPA registration instead." }, { "market": "European Union", "note": "Listed in CosIng as Syzygium Luehmannii Fruit Extract, so use the 'Luehmannii' spelling on EU labels; there is no EU restriction." }, { "market": "Climate", "note": "Its anthocyanin colour fades with heat and strong UV, weakens as pH rises above about 3 and turns dull purple near neutral pH, so for hot or high-UV markets use opaque packs and keep pH towards the low end of 3–5." } ] } ], "formats": [ { "slug": "cream", "name": "Cream", "group": "skin", "system": "Oil-in-water emulsion", "one_liner": "A thick, spoonable moisturiser of oil droplets held in water, the everyday workhorse of skin care.", "plain_explainer": "A cream is an emulsion: tiny drops of oil spread evenly through water and held there by emulsifiers. It spreads with light pressure and leaves skin soft without a heavy film. Textures run from light day creams to richer night creams, with water-in-oil versions for very dry skin.", "feel": "Soft and cushioning, absorbing over a minute or two to a supple finish.", "typical_uses": [ "Day and night moisturiser", "Barrier-support cream", "Neck and décolletage cream", "Base for treatment creams" ], "suits": [ "Normal to dry skin", "Very dry skin" ], "typical_actives": [ "Ceramides", "Niacinamide", "Hyaluronic acid", "Peptides", "Retinol" ], "key_components": [ { "role": "Emulsifier", "examples": "Glyceryl stearate, cetearyl alcohol, cetearyl glucoside, polyglyceryl esters" }, { "role": "Emollient", "examples": "Caprylic/capric triglyceride, squalane, shea butter, plant oils" }, { "role": "Humectant", "examples": "Glycerin, propanediol, sodium PCA" }, { "role": "Thickener", "examples": "Xanthan gum, carbomer, fatty alcohols" }, { "role": "Preservative", "examples": "Phenoxyethanol with ethylhexylglycerin, or sodium benzoate with potassium sorbate" } ], "how_it_is_made": "The water and oil phases are heated separately to about 70–80 °C. The oil phase is added to the water under high-shear homogenisation in a vacuum emulsifying vessel, which forms fine droplets and keeps air out. The batch is cooled with slow sweep mixing; heat-sensitive actives, fragrance and preservative go in below about 40 °C, then pH is adjusted before QC release.", "packaging": [ "Jar", "Airless pump", "Tube", "Pump bottle" ], "fill_notes": "Filled at or near room temperature once the batch has cooled and been released. Thick creams need a piston filler; airless packs need priming checks and jars need fill-height control. Tubes are filled from the open end, then crimped or heat-sealed.", "pros": [ "Familiar, versatile format that suits most actives.", "Texture can be tuned from light to rich.", "Suits jars, tubes, pumps and airless packs." ], "cons": [ "Needs a robust preservative system.", "Jars expose the product to air and fingers.", "Emulsion stability needs time-based testing." ], "shelf_life": "Main risks are separation, viscosity drift, microbial growth and oxidation of oils or actives.", "in_the_lab": { "viscosity_range": "About 20,000–100,000 mPa·s (Brookfield; spindle and speed set per product).", "ph_range": "Usually 4.5–6.5, set by the actives and preservative system.", "preservation": "Required; a broad-spectrum system validated by challenge test to ISO 11930. Airless packs lower in-use risk.", "stability_tests": "Accelerated storage at 40–45 °C for up to 3 months with room-temperature and 4 °C controls, plus freeze–thaw cycling, centrifuge, light exposure and pack compatibility.", "batch_sizes": "Pilot 50 L; production to 5,000 L.", "regulatory_au": "Cosmetic when claims stay with moisturising and appearance; with SPF 15 or less, a pack of 300 mL or 300 g or less, no water-resistance claim and the Excluded Goods Determination's other conditions met (including broad-spectrum testing to AS/NZS 2604:2021), it can remain a cosmetic; otherwise, including above SPF 15, it is a therapeutic sunscreen. Label ingredients under the Consumer Goods (Cosmetics) Information Standard 2020." }, "sustainability": "Refillable jars and refill pouches suit this format, as do mono-material tubes and airless packs with recyclable bodies. Lower-water, concentrated versions reduce freight weight.", "sources": [ "https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC5849435/", "https://www.iso.org/standard/63465.html", "https://www.iso.org/standard/75058.html", "https://www.legislation.gov.au/F2018L01350/latest/text" ], "shelf_life_months": { "unopened": [ 24, 36 ], "after_opening": [ 6, 12 ] }, "ph": { "min": 4.5, "max": 6.5 }, "viscosity_cp": { "min": 20000, "max": 100000 }, "fill": { "method": "cold", "temperature_c": 25, "note": "Thick creams go through a piston filler, with priming checks for airless packs and fill-height control for jars." }, "process_steps": [ { "step": "Heat both phases", "detail": "Water and oil heated separately to 70–80 °C." }, { "step": "Emulsify under vacuum", "detail": "Oil added to water under high-shear homogenising." }, { "step": "Cool with sweep mixing", "detail": "Slow mixing down to about 40 °C." }, { "step": "Add heat-sensitive ingredients", "detail": "Actives, fragrance and preservative go in below 40 °C." }, { "step": "Adjust and release", "detail": "Set pH and check viscosity before release." } ], "packaging_icons": [ "jar", "airless-pump", "tube", "pump-bottle" ] }, { "slug": "lotion", "name": "Lotion", "group": "skin", "system": "Oil-in-water emulsion", "one_liner": "A pourable, lighter emulsion for face or body, thinner than a cream.", "plain_explainer": "A lotion is built like a cream but with more water and less oil and thickener, so it flows from a pump or bottle. It spreads easily over large areas and leaves a light, non-greasy finish. It is the usual format for body moisturisers, lighter facial moisturisers and cleansing milks.", "feel": "Light and fluid, sinking in quickly to a soft, dry-touch finish.", "typical_uses": [ "Body lotion", "Light facial moisturiser", "Cleansing milk", "Hand and body lotion" ], "suits": [ "Normal to oily skin", "Warm, humid climates" ], "typical_actives": [ "Glycerin", "Urea", "Niacinamide", "Lactic acid", "Panthenol" ], "key_components": [ { "role": "Emulsifier", "examples": "Glyceryl stearate, cetearyl olivate, sorbitan olivate, polymeric emulsifiers" }, { "role": "Emollient", "examples": "Caprylic/capric triglyceride, isononyl isononanoate, sunflower oil" }, { "role": "Humectant", "examples": "Glycerin, propanediol, butylene glycol" }, { "role": "Stabiliser", "examples": "Xanthan gum, carbomer, acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer" }, { "role": "Preservative", "examples": "Phenoxyethanol or organic acid systems" } ], "how_it_is_made": "Made like a cream: heated water and oil phases are combined under homogenisation in a vacuum emulsifying vessel, then cooled with sweep mixing. Less fatty alcohol and wax keep it pourable, and a polymer stabiliser holds the droplets in place. Heat-sensitive ingredients and preservative are added during cooling, then pH and viscosity are checked.", "packaging": [ "Pump bottle", "Flip-top bottle", "Tube", "Refill pouch" ], "fill_notes": "Filled cold on a liquid or piston filler into bottles with pumps or caps. Viscosity must suit the chosen pump, so check pump output and dose consistency on the line.", "pros": [ "Fast-absorbing and easy to spread over large areas.", "Pump packs limit in-use contamination.", "Works for face, body and cleansing milks." ], "cons": [ "Low viscosity makes any separation easier to see.", "Less occlusive than a cream.", "Needs a robust preservative system." ], "shelf_life": "Main risks are creaming or separation, viscosity drop over time and microbial growth.", "in_the_lab": { "viscosity_range": "About 2,000–15,000 mPa·s; must match the pump specification.", "ph_range": "Usually 4.5–6.5; lactic acid lotions may sit lower, and urea lotions are buffered near pH 6.", "preservation": "Required; a broad-spectrum system validated by challenge test to ISO 11930. Pumps lower in-use contamination compared with open-neck bottles.", "stability_tests": "Accelerated storage at 40–45 °C, freeze–thaw, centrifuge for separation, viscosity tracking and pump compatibility.", "batch_sizes": "Pilot 50 L; production to 5,000 L.", "regulatory_au": "Cosmetic for moisturising and appearance claims; body lotions with SPF follow the same Excluded Goods conditions as creams (SPF 15 or less, a pack of 300 mL or 300 g or less, no water-resistance claim, broad-spectrum testing to AS/NZS 2604:2021); otherwise they are therapeutic sunscreens. Label ingredients under the Consumer Goods (Cosmetics) Information Standard 2020." }, "sustainability": "Large packs and refill pouches suit lotions well; recycled-content bottles and mono-material pumps are widely available.", "sources": [ "https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC5849435/", "https://www.lubrizol.com/-/media/Lubrizol/Health/TDS/TDS-114_Introducing_Pemulen_Polymeric_Emulsifiers.pdf", "https://www.iso.org/standard/63465.html", "https://www.legislation.gov.au/F2020L01469/latest/text" ], "shelf_life_months": { "unopened": [ 24, 36 ], "after_opening": [ 6, 12 ] }, "ph": { "min": 4.5, "max": 6.5 }, "viscosity_cp": { "min": 2000, "max": 15000 }, "fill": { "method": "cold", "temperature_c": 25, "note": "Uses a liquid or piston filler, with pump output and dose consistency checked against the chosen pump." }, "process_steps": [ { "step": "Heat both phases", "detail": "Water and oil phases to about 70–80 °C." }, { "step": "Emulsify under vacuum", "detail": "Oil homogenised into water with less wax." }, { "step": "Add polymer stabiliser", "detail": "Holds droplets in place at low viscosity." }, { "step": "Cool and finish", "detail": "Actives and preservative go in below about 40 °C." }, { "step": "Check pH and flow", "detail": "Confirm the viscosity suits the chosen pump." } ], "packaging_icons": [ "pump-bottle", "squeeze-bottle", "tube", "pouch" ] }, { "slug": "serum", "name": "Serum", "group": "skin", "system": "Aqueous gel", "one_liner": "A light, concentrated product, usually a water-based gel, applied in small doses before moisturiser.", "plain_explainer": "A serum is a thin, fast-absorbing product that delivers a higher level of a targeted ingredient in a few drops. Many are lightly thickened, clear water-based gels; emulsion serums add a little oil for a silkier, more nourishing finish.", "feel": "Fluid and silky, absorbing within seconds with little or no residue.", "typical_uses": [ "Hydrating serum", "Tone or brightening serum", "Firming serum", "Targeted treatment step" ], "suits": [ "All skin types", "Oily skin (gel serums)", "Dry skin (emulsion serums)" ], "typical_actives": [ "Hyaluronic acid", "Niacinamide", { "name": "Vitamin C and derivatives", "slug": "vitamin-c" }, "Peptides", { "name": "Retinol", "slug": "retinol" } ], "key_components": [ { "role": "Gelling agent", "examples": "Xanthan gum, sclerotium gum, carbomer, hydroxyethylcellulose" }, { "role": "Humectant", "examples": "Glycerin, propanediol, butylene glycol, sodium hyaluronate" }, { "role": "Solubiliser", "examples": "Polysorbate 20, PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, polyglyceryl esters" }, { "role": "Emulsifier (emulsion serums)", "examples": "Polymeric emulsifiers, sucrose esters, lecithin" }, { "role": "Chelating agent and preservative", "examples": "Sodium phytate; phenoxyethanol or organic acid systems" } ], "how_it_is_made": "The gelling agent is dispersed and hydrated in water, usually cold, with humectants added. Actives are dissolved in the water phase or pre-solubilised, then pH is set; carbomer gels are neutralised to build viscosity. Emulsion serums add a small oil phase under homogenisation, and vacuum mixing keeps clear gels free of bubbles.", "packaging": [ "Glass dropper bottle", "Airless pump", "Pump bottle", "Single-dose ampoule or sachet" ], "fill_notes": "Filled cold on a liquid filler. Oxygen- or light-sensitive actives are better in airless or opaque packs, sometimes with nitrogen flushing. Droppers need compatibility checks for the bulb and pipette.", "pros": [ "A few drops cover the face.", "Delivers a higher level of a targeted ingredient.", "Easy to layer under other products." ], "cons": [ "Shelf life is often set by the active.", "Clear gels show haze, colour change and bubbles.", "Droppers let air in with each use." ], "shelf_life": "Often limited by the stability of the active. Main risks are colour change, pH drift, viscosity loss and haze.", "in_the_lab": { "viscosity_range": "Gel serums about 500–5,000 mPa·s; emulsion serums about 2,000–15,000 mPa·s.", "ph_range": "Usually 4.5–6.5; some acid or vitamin C systems run much lower.", "preservation": "Required, as high-water, low-oil systems are prone to contamination. Challenge test to ISO 11930.", "stability_tests": "Accelerated storage at 40–45 °C, light exposure for clear packs, assay of the key active over time, and colour and pH tracking.", "batch_sizes": "Pilot 50 L; production to 5,000 L, though small-dose serums often run at the lower end.", "regulatory_au": "Cosmetic when claims stay with appearance and hydration; claims to prevent or treat a disease or ailment, or to change a physiological process such as collagen production, make it a therapeutic good. Label ingredients under the Consumer Goods (Cosmetics) Information Standard 2020." }, "sustainability": "Small packs mean a high packaging-to-product ratio; glass bottles recycle well once the dropper is removed, and refill cartridges are available for some airless packs.", "sources": [ "https://www.lubrizol.com/-/media/Lubrizol/Health/TDS/TDS-237_Neutralizing_Carbopol_Pemulen_in_Aqueous_Hydroalcoholic_Systems--PH.pdf", "https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC5172479/", "https://www.iso.org/standard/75058.html", "https://www.tga.gov.au/resources/guidance/determining-if-your-product-cosmetic-or-therapeutic-good" ], "shelf_life_months": { "unopened": [ 12, 36 ], "after_opening": [ 3, 12 ] }, "ph": { "min": 4.5, "max": 6.5 }, "viscosity_cp": { "min": 500, "max": 15000 }, "fill": { "method": "cold", "temperature_c": 25, "note": "Airless or opaque packs, sometimes with nitrogen flushing, protect oxygen- or light-sensitive actives." }, "process_steps": [ { "step": "Hydrate the gelling agent", "detail": "Disperse gum or polymer in cold water." }, { "step": "Dissolve the actives", "detail": "Add humectants and water-soluble actives." }, { "step": "Add oil phase (optional)", "detail": "Homogenise a small oil phase for emulsion serums." }, { "step": "Set pH and thicken", "detail": "Neutralise carbomer or adjust pH for the active." }, { "step": "De-aerate and filter", "detail": "Vacuum mixing keeps clear gels bubble-free." } ], "packaging_icons": [ "dropper-bottle", "airless-pump", "pump-bottle", "ampoule" ] }, { "slug": "facial-oil", "name": "Facial oil", "group": "skin", "system": "Anhydrous", "one_liner": "A blend of plant oils and light esters for the face, made without water.", "plain_explainer": "A facial oil is a mix of oils and oil-soluble ingredients with no water at all. A few drops are pressed into skin, alone or over a serum, to soften it and leave a sheen. It is a simple format that suits natural and certified-organic formulas.", "feel": "Slippery at first, settling to a soft satin sheen.", "typical_uses": [ "Face oil", "Night treatment oil", "Facial massage oil", "Beard oil" ], "suits": [ "Dry skin", "Mature skin" ], "typical_actives": [ "Squalane", "Rosehip oil", "Bakuchiol", "Vitamin E", "Retinyl esters" ], "key_components": [ { "role": "Carrier oil", "examples": "Jojoba, rosehip, sunflower, macadamia, Kakadu plum seed oil" }, { "role": "Light ester or hydrocarbon", "examples": "Squalane, caprylic/capric triglyceride, coco-caprylate" }, { "role": "Antioxidant", "examples": "Tocopherol, rosemary leaf extract" }, { "role": "Fragrance", "examples": "Essential oils within IFRA limits" } ], "how_it_is_made": "Oils are weighed and blended at room temperature with gentle stirring; waxy ingredients are warmed just enough to melt. Antioxidant goes in early to protect the oils. The blend is filtered for clarity, often under a nitrogen blanket, and filled with no emulsifying step.", "packaging": [ "Amber or violet glass dropper bottle", "Glass bottle with pump", "Roller bottle" ], "fill_notes": "Filled cold on a liquid filler; low viscosity flows easily. Nitrogen flushing of the headspace slows oxidation. Check that dropper bulbs and seals tolerate oils.", "pros": [ "No water, so low microbial risk.", "Short, simple ingredient lists.", "Suits natural and certified-organic formulas." ], "cons": [ "Oils oxidise and can turn rancid.", "Can feel greasy on oily skin.", "Plant oils vary from harvest to harvest." ], "shelf_life": "Limited mainly by oxidation of the oils. Keep from heat and light, and watch for changes in odour and colour.", "in_the_lab": { "viscosity_range": "Low, about 20–100 mPa·s.", "ph_range": "Not applicable; there is no water phase.", "preservation": "Usually not needed if truly anhydrous; justify with an ISO 29621 risk assessment. An antioxidant is needed to slow rancidity.", "stability_tests": "Oxidative stability (peroxide value, Rancimat), storage at 40–45 °C, light exposure, odour and colour checks, and pack compatibility.", "batch_sizes": "Pilot 50 L; production to 5,000 L.", "regulatory_au": "Cosmetic for softening and appearance claims; therapeutic claims, including for its essential oils, make it a therapeutic good. Keep essential oils within IFRA limits and declare fragrance as 'fragrance' or 'parfum'. Label ingredients under the Consumer Goods (Cosmetics) Information Standard 2020." }, "sustainability": "Waterless, so freight per dose is low; glass is widely recycled. Local oils such as macadamia or Kakadu plum seed oil can shorten supply chains.", "sources": [ "https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC5796020/", "https://www.iso.org/standard/68310.html", "https://www.iso.org/standard/63465.html" ], "shelf_life_months": { "unopened": [ 12, 24 ], "after_opening": [ 6, 12 ] }, "ph": null, "viscosity_cp": { "min": 20, "max": 100 }, "fill": { "method": "cold", "temperature_c": 25, "note": "Nitrogen flushing of the headspace slows oxidation, and dropper bulbs and seals are checked for oil tolerance." }, "process_steps": [ { "step": "Weigh and blend oils", "detail": "Mix oils and esters at room temperature." }, { "step": "Melt waxy ingredients", "detail": "Warm gently only if solids are used." }, { "step": "Add antioxidant early", "detail": "Tocopherol protects the oils from oxidation." }, { "step": "Filter and blanket", "detail": "Filter for clarity, often under nitrogen." } ], "packaging_icons": [ "dropper-bottle", "pump-bottle", "roll-on" ] }, { "slug": "gel", "name": "Gel", "group": "skin", "system": "Aqueous gel", "one_liner": "A clear or translucent water-based gel made with little or no oil.", "plain_explainer": "A gel is water thickened with a polymer or gum so it holds its shape. It spreads into a thin, cooling layer that dries down quickly without shine. It suits oily or reactive skin, eye gels, spot products and soothing aloe-style gels.", "feel": "Cool and bouncy, drying down quickly to a clean, non-greasy finish.", "typical_uses": [ "Oil-free moisturiser", "Eye gel", "Soothing aloe gel", "Spot or blemish gel" ], "suits": [ "Oily and combination skin", "Teenage skin", "Hot, humid climates" ], "typical_actives": [ "Aloe vera", "Hyaluronic acid", "Niacinamide", "Salicylic acid", "Caffeine" ], "key_components": [ { "role": "Gelling agent", "examples": "Carbomer, acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, xanthan gum, hydroxyethylcellulose" }, { "role": "Neutraliser", "examples": "Sodium hydroxide, tromethamine, arginine" }, { "role": "Humectant", "examples": "Glycerin, propanediol, butylene glycol" }, { "role": "Solubiliser", "examples": "Polysorbate 20, PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil" }, { "role": "Chelating agent and preservative", "examples": "Disodium EDTA or sodium phytate; phenoxyethanol or organic acids" } ], "how_it_is_made": "The polymer is sprinkled into water under good mixing and left to hydrate fully, usually without heat. Humectants and water-soluble actives are added, fragrance is pre-mixed with a solubiliser, and carbomer gels are neutralised at the end to build viscosity. Mixing under vacuum keeps the gel clear and free of air bubbles.", "packaging": [ "Tube", "Jar", "Pump bottle", "Airless pump" ], "fill_notes": "Filled cold. Avoid drawing air in during transfer and filling, because bubbles stay suspended in a clear gel. Thick gels need a piston filler.", "pros": [ "Cooling, quick-drying feel.", "Leaves no shine on oily skin.", "Suits eye gels, spot gels and aloe gels." ], "cons": [ "Little emollience for dry skin.", "Carbomer gels are sensitive to salts and some actives.", "Clear gels show bubbles, haze and colour change." ], "shelf_life": "Main risks are viscosity loss from salts, UV light or low pH, plus colour change and microbial growth.", "in_the_lab": { "viscosity_range": "About 5,000–50,000 mPa·s depending on polymer and use level.", "ph_range": "Carbomer gels about 5.5–7 for high viscosity; gum-based gels can run lower, to about pH 3–4 for salicylic acid gels, where carbomer thickens poorly.", "preservation": "Required, as water activity is high. Challenge test to ISO 11930.", "stability_tests": "Storage at 40–45 °C, freeze–thaw, UV and light exposure (carbomer gels can thin), and clarity, colour and viscosity over time.", "batch_sizes": "Pilot 50 L; production to 5,000 L.", "regulatory_au": "Cosmetic for appearance and hydration claims; anti-acne gels stay cosmetic only when presented as controlling or preventing acne solely through cleansing, moisturising, exfoliating or drying the skin, with no Schedule 2, 3, 4 or 8 substances. Label ingredients under the Consumer Goods (Cosmetics) Information Standard 2020." }, "sustainability": "Mostly water, so freight per unit is high; concentrate or powder-to-gel formats reduce it. Mono-material tubes are available.", "sources": [ "https://www.lubrizol.com/-/media/Lubrizol/Health/TDS/TDS-237_Neutralizing_Carbopol_Pemulen_in_Aqueous_Hydroalcoholic_Systems--PH.pdf", "https://www.lubrizol.com/-/media/Lubrizol/Health/TDS/TDS-730_Viscosity_Carbopol_in_Aqueous-Systems.pdf", "https://www.legislation.gov.au/F2018L01350/latest/text", "https://www.iso.org/standard/75058.html" ], "shelf_life_months": { "unopened": [ 24, 36 ], "after_opening": [ 6, 12 ] }, "ph": { "min": 5.5, "max": 7.0 }, "viscosity_cp": { "min": 5000, "max": 50000 }, "fill": { "method": "cold", "temperature_c": 25, "note": "Transfer and filling avoid drawing in air, which stays suspended in a clear gel, and thick gels need a piston filler." }, "process_steps": [ { "step": "Hydrate the polymer", "detail": "Sprinkle into water and mix until fully swollen." }, { "step": "Add water-soluble ingredients", "detail": "Humectants, actives and solubilised fragrance." }, { "step": "Neutralise to thicken", "detail": "Raise pH to build carbomer viscosity." }, { "step": "De-aerate under vacuum", "detail": "Remove air so the gel stays clear." } ], "packaging_icons": [ "tube", "jar", "pump-bottle", "airless-pump" ] }, { "slug": "gel-cream", "name": "Gel-cream", "group": "skin", "system": "Oil-in-water emulsion", "one_liner": "A hybrid of gel and cream, with just a little oil for comfort.", "plain_explainer": "A gel-cream is a low-oil emulsion held together mainly by gelling polymers rather than traditional waxy emulsifiers. It looks like a soft white or translucent cream but breaks into a watery feel on contact with skin. It suits lightweight day or night moisturisers.", "feel": "Bouncy and fresh, breaking to a cool, watery feel and absorbing quickly.", "typical_uses": [ "Lightweight moisturiser", "Water cream", "Sleeping mask base", "Eye gel-cream" ], "suits": [ "Combination and oily skin", "Warm climates" ], "typical_actives": [ "Hyaluronic acid", "Niacinamide", "Panthenol", "Centella asiatica extract", "Peptides" ], "key_components": [ { "role": "Polymeric emulsifier or thickener", "examples": "Acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, sodium polyacrylate, hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer" }, { "role": "Emollient", "examples": "Squalane, light esters, dimethicone or silicone alternatives at about 3–15%" }, { "role": "Humectant", "examples": "Glycerin, propanediol, betaine" }, { "role": "Preservative", "examples": "Phenoxyethanol or organic acid systems" } ], "how_it_is_made": "Often made cold: the polymer is hydrated in water with humectants, then a small liquid oil phase is added under homogenisation so the polymer network traps the droplets. If waxes or butters are used, both phases are heated before emulsifying, as for a cream. Polymers that need it, such as acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, are then neutralised. Actives, fragrance and preservative go in last, under vacuum to keep air out.", "packaging": [ "Jar", "Airless pump", "Tube" ], "fill_notes": "Filled cold. The shear-thinning texture pumps well from airless packs but can trap air, so fill at a controlled speed and check fill weights.", "pros": [ "Light, fresh texture with some comfort.", "Low oil gives a non-greasy finish.", "Pumps well from airless packs." ], "cons": [ "Polymers can be sensitive to salts and some actives.", "Less rich than a cream for dry skin.", "Can pill under make-up at high polymer levels." ], "shelf_life": "Main risks are viscosity loss with electrolytes, oil separation and microbial growth.", "in_the_lab": { "viscosity_range": "About 10,000–50,000 mPa·s; strongly shear-thinning.", "ph_range": "Usually 5.0–6.5 to suit the polymer.", "preservation": "Required, as water activity is high. Challenge test to ISO 11930.", "stability_tests": "Storage at 40–45 °C, freeze–thaw, centrifuge, viscosity with and without actives, and electrolyte tolerance.", "batch_sizes": "Pilot 50 L; production to 5,000 L.", "regulatory_au": "Cosmetic for moisturising and appearance claims. Label ingredients under the Consumer Goods (Cosmetics) Information Standard 2020." }, "sustainability": "Cold processing reduces energy use. Refillable jars and airless refills suit this format.", "sources": [ "https://www.lubrizol.com/-/media/Lubrizol/Health/TDS/TDS-114_Introducing_Pemulen_Polymeric_Emulsifiers.pdf", "https://www.lubrizol.com/-/media/Lubrizol/Health/TDS/TDS-237_Neutralizing_Carbopol_Pemulen_in_Aqueous_Hydroalcoholic_Systems--PH.pdf", "https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC5849435/" ], "shelf_life_months": { "unopened": [ 24, 36 ], "after_opening": [ 6, 12 ] }, "ph": { "min": 5.0, "max": 6.5 }, "viscosity_cp": { "min": 10000, "max": 50000 }, "fill": { "method": "cold", "temperature_c": 25, "note": "The shear-thinning texture pumps well from airless packs but can trap air, so fill speed and fill weights are controlled." }, "process_steps": [ { "step": "Hydrate the polymer", "detail": "Polymeric emulsifier and humectants in water, usually cold." }, { "step": "Heat if butters used", "detail": "Warm both phases before emulsifying, as for a cream." }, { "step": "Add the oil phase", "detail": "Homogenise a small oil phase, then neutralise if needed." }, { "step": "Finish under vacuum", "detail": "Add actives, fragrance and preservative last." } ], "packaging_icons": [ "jar", "airless-pump", "tube" ] }, { "slug": "balm", "name": "Balm", "group": "skin", "system": "Anhydrous", "one_liner": "A solid or semi-solid blend of butters, waxes and oils that melts on contact with skin.", "plain_explainer": "A balm contains no water: oils are thickened with waxes and butters so it holds its shape in a tin or jar. It warms and melts as it is applied, leaving a rich, protective layer on dry patches, cuticles and lips. Its small, solid format also suits travel and outdoor kits.", "feel": "Firm in the pot, melting to a rich, cushioning layer that stays put.", "typical_uses": [ "Multi-purpose skin balm", "Cuticle and elbow balm", "Face balm for very dry skin", "Solid perfume or travel balm" ], "suits": [ "Very dry skin", "Weathered, exposed skin" ], "typical_actives": [ "Shea butter", "Calendula extract", "Vitamin E", "Bisabolol", "Ceramides" ], "key_components": [ { "role": "Wax", "examples": "Beeswax, candelilla wax, rice bran wax, sunflower seed wax" }, { "role": "Butter", "examples": "Shea, cocoa or mango butter" }, { "role": "Liquid oil", "examples": "Sunflower, jojoba, macadamia or olive oil" }, { "role": "Antioxidant", "examples": "Tocopherol, rosemary leaf extract" } ], "how_it_is_made": "Waxes and butters are melted with the oils, usually at 70–85 °C, and mixed until uniform. The melt is cooled a little, oil-soluble actives and fragrance are added, and it is poured hot into its packs. Cooling is controlled, because slowly cooled shea or cocoa butter can turn grainy.", "packaging": [ "Tin", "Glass or PP jar", "Twist-up stick", "Paper push-up tube" ], "fill_notes": "Hot filled from a heated, stirred holding tank at about 60–80 °C, then cooled on the line or in a cooling tunnel. Fill level, surface finish and shrinkage are checked after setting.", "pros": [ "No water, so low microbial risk.", "Concentrated, so small packs last.", "Suits plastic-free packs such as tins and paper tubes." ], "cons": [ "Can soften or melt in hot transport and storage.", "Butters can turn grainy if cooling is uncontrolled.", "Heavy feel limits daytime face use." ], "shelf_life": "Limited by oil oxidation. Main risks are graininess, oil sweating, surface bloom and rancid odour.", "in_the_lab": { "viscosity_range": "Semi-solid; specify hardness by penetrometer and melting or drop point instead of viscosity.", "ph_range": "Not applicable; there is no water phase.", "preservation": "Usually not needed if truly anhydrous; support with an ISO 29621 risk assessment. Antioxidant recommended.", "stability_tests": "Cycling between 5 °C and 40–45 °C for graininess and sweating, melting point, oxidation checks and transport heat simulation for Australian summers.", "batch_sizes": "Pilot 50 L; production to 5,000 L, with heated, stirred holding for hot fill.", "regulatory_au": "Cosmetic for moisturising and protecting claims; claims about wounds or skin conditions make it a therapeutic good. Label ingredients under the Consumer Goods (Cosmetics) Information Standard 2020." }, "sustainability": "Waterless and compact; suits tins, glass jars and paper push-up tubes.", "sources": [ "https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC5796020/", "https://www.iso.org/standard/68310.html", "https://www.tga.gov.au/resources/guidance/determining-if-your-product-cosmetic-or-therapeutic-good" ], "shelf_life_months": { "unopened": [ 18, 36 ], "after_opening": [ 12, 24 ] }, "ph": null, "viscosity_cp": null, "fill": { "method": "hot", "temperature_c": 70, "note": "Poured from a heated, stirred holding tank and cooled in a tunnel, with surface finish and shrinkage checked after setting." }, "process_steps": [ { "step": "Melt waxes and butters", "detail": "With the oils at about 70–85 °C." }, { "step": "Mix until uniform", "detail": "Stir until fully melted and even." }, { "step": "Add oil-soluble actives", "detail": "Actives and fragrance go in after slight cooling." }, { "step": "Pour hot", "detail": "Fill into tins, jars or sticks." }, { "step": "Cool under control", "detail": "Fast, even cooling limits grainy butters." } ], "packaging_icons": [ "tin", "jar", "stick" ] }, { "slug": "toner-essence-mist", "name": "Toner, essence and face mist", "group": "skin", "system": "Aqueous solution", "one_liner": "A thin after-cleanse step, applied by hand, pad or fine mist, that hydrates and preps skin.", "plain_explainer": "Toners, essences and face mists share one water-based system in different packs: a thin solution of humectants, soothing ingredients and sometimes mild acids. Toners are swept on with a pad, essences are patted in from a bottle, and mists are sprayed from a fine-mist pump. All three layer easily and suit refreshing top-ups during the day.", "feel": "Watery and refreshing, absorbing almost at once with no residue.", "typical_uses": [ "Hydrating toner", "Exfoliating toner", "Essence", "Hydrating face mist" ], "suits": [ "All skin types", "Hot climates" ], "typical_actives": [ "Hyaluronic acid", "Niacinamide", "Lactic acid", "Panthenol" ], "key_components": [ { "role": "Water or hydrosol", "examples": "Purified water; rose, witch hazel or other floral waters" }, { "role": "Humectant", "examples": "Glycerin, butylene glycol, propanediol, betaine" }, { "role": "Solubiliser", "examples": "Polysorbate 20, PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, polyglyceryl-4 caprate" }, { "role": "Light thickener (essences)", "examples": "Xanthan gum, sodium hyaluronate, hydroxyethylcellulose" }, { "role": "Preservative", "examples": "Phenoxyethanol, sodium benzoate or organic acid systems" } ], "how_it_is_made": "A cold process: humectants and water-soluble actives are dissolved in water, fragrance or essential oils are pre-mixed with a solubiliser, and pH is adjusted. Essences may include a trace of gum for slip. The solution is filtered for clarity; two-phase mists are filled as separate oil and water layers.", "packaging": [ "Bottle with orifice reducer", "Fine-mist pump bottle", "Pump bottle", "Bag-on-valve can" ], "fill_notes": "Filled cold on a liquid filler. Fine-mist pumps need spray-pattern and dose checks; bag-on-valve and aerosol packs are gassed on a specialist line.", "pros": [ "Easy to layer and reapply.", "Wide choice of packs, from bottles to mists.", "Mild acid versions add gentle exfoliation." ], "cons": [ "Mostly water, so heavy to ship.", "Needs gentle but robust preservation.", "Clear liquids show haze or colour change." ], "shelf_life": "Main risks are haze, colour change, pH drift and microbial growth; floral waters raise the microbial risk.", "in_the_lab": { "viscosity_range": "Water-like, below about 50 mPa·s; essences up to a few hundred mPa·s.", "ph_range": "Usually 4.5–6.5; exfoliating toners can sit at 3.5–4.", "preservation": "Required, as water activity is high and hydrosols need low starting microbial counts. Challenge test to ISO 11930.", "stability_tests": "Storage at 40–45 °C and 4 °C, light exposure for clear packs, clarity and cloud point, and spray pattern and pump function over time.", "batch_sizes": "Pilot 50 L; production to 5,000 L.", "regulatory_au": "Cosmetic; anti-acne toners stay cosmetic only when presented as controlling or preventing acne solely through cleansing, moisturising, exfoliating or drying the skin, and contain no substance in Schedules 2, 3, 4 or 8 of the Poisons Standard. Aerosol mists are dangerous goods for transport and storage." }, "sustainability": "Mostly water, so concentrates and refills help. Fine-mist pumps avoid the propellants used in aerosols.", "sources": [ "https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC5172479/", "https://www.legislation.gov.au/F2018L01350/latest/text", "https://www.iso.org/standard/75058.html", "https://www.ntc.gov.au/codes-and-guidelines/australian-dangerous-goods-code" ], "shelf_life_months": { "unopened": [ 24, 36 ], "after_opening": [ 6, 12 ] }, "ph": { "min": 4.5, "max": 6.5 }, "viscosity_cp": { "min": 1, "max": 50 }, "fill": { "method": "cold", "temperature_c": 25, "note": "Fine-mist pumps are checked for spray pattern and dose, and bag-on-valve and aerosol packs are gassed on a specialist line." }, "process_steps": [ { "step": "Dissolve humectants", "detail": "Glycerin and water-soluble actives in purified water." }, { "step": "Solubilise fragrance", "detail": "Pre-mix fragrance or essential oils with solubiliser." }, { "step": "Adjust pH", "detail": "Set to suit actives and preservative." }, { "step": "Filter for clarity", "detail": "Polish filter before filling." } ], "packaging_icons": [ "bottle", "spray-bottle", "pump-bottle", "aerosol" ] }, { "slug": "clay-mask", "name": "Clay mask", "group": "skin", "system": "Suspension", "one_liner": "A creamy paste of mineral clays that absorbs surface oil and is rinsed off after a few minutes.", "plain_explainer": "A clay mask is fine clay powder suspended in a water or light cream base. Left on for 5–15 minutes, the clay absorbs surface oil, and rinsing leaves skin feeling clean and matt. It is usually a weekly step, and waterless powder versions are mixed with water at home.", "feel": "Smooth and cool going on, setting to a firm, matt layer.", "typical_uses": [ "Purifying clay mask", "Pore-care mask", "Spot-treatment mask", "Powder-to-paste mask" ], "suits": [ "Oily and combination skin", "Congested skin" ], "typical_actives": [ "Salicylic acid", "Niacinamide", "Zinc PCA" ], "key_components": [ { "role": "Clay", "examples": "Kaolin, bentonite, montmorillonite, illite, Australian clays; activated charcoal" }, { "role": "Suspending agent", "examples": "Xanthan gum, magnesium aluminium silicate, carbomer" }, { "role": "Humectant", "examples": "Glycerin, propanediol" }, { "role": "Emollient or emulsifier (creamy masks)", "examples": "Cetearyl alcohol, glyceryl stearate, light esters" }, { "role": "Preservative", "examples": "Phenoxyethanol or organic acid systems" } ], "how_it_is_made": "Gums and humectants are hydrated in water, then the clays are added slowly under strong mixing so they wet out without lumps. A small emulsion phase can be added for a creamier mask. The paste is mixed under vacuum to remove air, then preservative and fragrance are added.", "packaging": [ "Jar", "Tube", "Single-use sachet", "Powder jar (waterless)" ], "fill_notes": "Filled cold with a piston filler able to handle thick pastes. Packs must seal well, because a clay mask dries out and cracks if it loses water.", "pros": [ "Leaves skin feeling clean and matt.", "Clays are natural and widely certifiable.", "Powder versions are waterless." ], "cons": [ "Clays can carry a high natural microbial load.", "Can dry out, crack or separate in the pack.", "Abrasive pastes wear filling equipment." ], "shelf_life": "Main risks are drying and cracking, water separation, colour change and microbial growth.", "in_the_lab": { "viscosity_range": "Thick paste, about 50,000–250,000 mPa·s.", "ph_range": "Usually 5.5–8; bentonite dispersions run alkaline and may need adjusting.", "preservation": "Required for wet masks, using low-count or treated clays and a challenge test to ISO 11930. Dry powder masks are low risk.", "stability_tests": "Storage at 40–45 °C, water loss through the pack, syneresis, freeze–thaw and microbial limits on incoming clays.", "batch_sizes": "Pilot 50 L; production to 5,000 L.", "regulatory_au": "Cosmetic for cleansing and appearance claims; anti-acne masks stay cosmetic only when presented as controlling or preventing acne solely through cleansing, moisturising, exfoliating or drying the skin, and contain no substance in Schedules 2, 3, 4 or 8 of the Poisons Standard. Label ingredients under the Consumer Goods (Cosmetics) Information Standard 2020." }, "sustainability": "Powder masks are waterless and light to ship. Glass jars and aluminium tubes suit this format.", "sources": [ "https://www.cambridge.org/core/journals/clays-and-clay-minerals/article/clays-in-cosmetics-and-personalcare-products/5FF07B41F3C4447ADE8B02C9D4849510", "https://doi.org/10.1111/jocd.12730", "https://www.legislation.gov.au/F2018L01350/latest/text", "https://www.iso.org/standard/75058.html" ], "shelf_life_months": { "unopened": [ 24, 36 ], "after_opening": [ 6, 12 ] }, "ph": { "min": 5.5, "max": 8.0 }, "viscosity_cp": { "min": 50000, "max": 250000 }, "fill": { "method": "cold", "temperature_c": 25, "note": "A piston filler built for thick pastes fills well-sealing packs, because the mask cracks if it loses water." }, "process_steps": [ { "step": "Hydrate the gums", "detail": "Suspending agent and humectants in water." }, { "step": "Wet out the clays", "detail": "Add clays slowly under strong mixing." }, { "step": "Add emulsion phase (optional)", "detail": "A small oil phase for a creamier mask." }, { "step": "De-aerate the paste", "detail": "Vacuum mixing removes trapped air." }, { "step": "Add preservative and fragrance", "detail": "Then check viscosity and pH." } ], "packaging_icons": [ "jar", "tube", "sachet" ] }, { "slug": "cream-mask", "name": "Cream or sleeping mask", "group": "skin", "system": "Oil-in-water emulsion", "one_liner": "A rich cream or gel-cream mask, left on for minutes or overnight for a concentrated moisture boost.", "plain_explainer": "A cream mask is a thicker, richer emulsion applied in a generous layer and either tissued off or left on. Sleeping masks are lighter gel-creams designed to stay on overnight without transferring to the pillow. Both suit an unhurried evening ritual.", "feel": "Plush and cushioning, settling to a soft, slightly occlusive layer.", "typical_uses": [ "Overnight sleeping mask", "Hydrating cream mask", "Lip sleeping mask", "Recovery mask" ], "suits": [ "Dry and dehydrated skin", "Tired-looking skin" ], "typical_actives": [ "Hyaluronic acid", "Ceramides", "Squalane", "Panthenol", "Peptides" ], "key_components": [ { "role": "Emulsifier or polymer", "examples": "Cetearyl alcohol and cetearyl glucoside, glyceryl stearate, polymeric emulsifiers" }, { "role": "Occlusive or emollient", "examples": "Shea butter, squalane, dimethicone, plant oils" }, { "role": "Humectant", "examples": "Glycerin, betaine, sodium PCA" }, { "role": "Film-former (sleeping masks)", "examples": "Polysaccharide film-formers, sodium hyaluronate" }, { "role": "Preservative", "examples": "Phenoxyethanol or organic acid systems" } ], "how_it_is_made": "Made like a cream or gel-cream in a vacuum emulsifying vessel: heated water and oil phases are homogenised together, or a polymer network is built cold. Sleeping masks use higher humectant and film-former levels. Heat-sensitive ingredients and preservative go in during cooling.", "packaging": [ "Jar", "Tube", "Airless jar", "Single-use sachet" ], "fill_notes": "Filled cold with a piston filler; thick textures need slower filling to avoid air pockets. Jars benefit from an inner seal and a spatula.", "pros": [ "Sleeping masks are designed to stay on overnight without transferring.", "Built on familiar cream and gel-cream processes.", "Generous dose suits jar packs." ], "cons": [ "Large dose per use empties packs faster.", "Jars expose the product to air and fingers.", "Rich versions can feel heavy on oily skin." ], "shelf_life": "Main risks are separation, viscosity change, oxidation and microbial growth.", "in_the_lab": { "viscosity_range": "About 30,000–120,000 mPa·s.", "ph_range": "Usually 4.5–6.5.", "preservation": "Required; jar packs need a strong challenge-test result to ISO 11930.", "stability_tests": "Storage at 40–45 °C, freeze–thaw, centrifuge, viscosity tracking, and transfer tests for overnight claims.", "batch_sizes": "Pilot 50 L; production to 5,000 L.", "regulatory_au": "Cosmetic for moisturising and appearance claims. Label ingredients under the Consumer Goods (Cosmetics) Information Standard 2020." }, "sustainability": "Refillable jars suit this format, and a spatula reduces contamination and waste.", "sources": [ "https://doi.org/10.1111/jocd.12730", "https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC5849435/", "https://www.iso.org/standard/75058.html" ], "shelf_life_months": { "unopened": [ 24, 36 ], "after_opening": [ 6, 12 ] }, "ph": { "min": 4.5, "max": 6.5 }, "viscosity_cp": { "min": 30000, "max": 120000 }, "fill": { "method": "cold", "temperature_c": 25, "note": "A piston filler runs slowly to avoid air pockets, and jars benefit from an inner seal and a spatula." }, "process_steps": [ { "step": "Heat both phases", "detail": "Or build a polymer network cold." }, { "step": "Emulsify under vacuum", "detail": "Homogenise the oil phase into water." }, { "step": "Cool with sweep mixing", "detail": "Slow mixing down to about 40 °C." }, { "step": "Add finishing ingredients", "detail": "Actives, film-formers and preservative during cooling." } ], "packaging_icons": [ "jar", "tube", "sachet" ] }, { "slug": "sheet-mask", "name": "Sheet mask", "group": "skin", "system": "Aqueous gel", "one_liner": "A single-use fabric or gel sheet soaked in serum, sealed in a sachet and worn for minutes.", "plain_explainer": "A sheet mask is a face-shaped sheet of non-woven fibre, bio-cellulose or hydrogel, folded into a foil sachet with a generous dose of serum-like essence. It is worn for 10–20 minutes, and the sheet slows evaporation so the essence stays on the skin. Single sachets also suit gifting and sampling.", "feel": "Cool and wet on the face, leaving skin dewy and slightly tacky.", "typical_uses": [ "Hydrating sheet mask", "Brightening sheet mask", "Under-eye patches", "Hydrogel mask" ], "suits": [ "All skin types", "Dehydrated skin" ], "typical_actives": [ "Hyaluronic acid", "Niacinamide", "Centella asiatica extract", "Panthenol", "Glycerin" ], "key_components": [ { "role": "Sheet substrate", "examples": "Non-woven cotton, cupro or lyocell; bio-cellulose; hydrogel" }, { "role": "Humectant", "examples": "Glycerin, butylene glycol, sodium hyaluronate" }, { "role": "Light thickener", "examples": "Xanthan gum, carbomer, hydroxyethylcellulose" }, { "role": "Solubiliser", "examples": "Polysorbate 20, PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil" }, { "role": "Preservative", "examples": "Phenoxyethanol or organic acid systems" } ], "how_it_is_made": "The essence is made like a light gel or toner in a mixing vessel, filtered and released. Sheets are folded, inserted into foil sachets and dosed with essence, then the sachets are heat-sealed. Hydrogel masks are cast as a gel sheet and cut to shape before packing.", "packaging": [ "Foil sachet", "Multi-pack carton", "Tray for eye patches" ], "fill_notes": "Essence is dosed into pre-loaded sachets on a dedicated sheet-mask line that folds and inserts the sheet, doses (often 15–30 mL) and heat-seals. Seal integrity and fill volume are checked every batch.", "pros": [ "Clear sensory moment and visible ritual.", "Single dose, so each unit is fresh.", "Sheet keeps the essence on skin longer." ], "cons": [ "Single-use waste from sheets and foil.", "Needs specialist folding and insertion equipment.", "Wet sheets are hard to preserve." ], "shelf_life": "Each sachet is single-use, so there is no after-opening period. Main risks are seal failure, essence loss, discoloured sheets and microbial growth.", "in_the_lab": { "viscosity_range": "Essence about 50–2,000 mPa·s, thin enough to soak the sheet evenly.", "ph_range": "Usually 5.0–6.5.", "preservation": "Required; challenge test the essence on the substrate, not only on its own, to ISO 11930. Specify low starting counts on sheets.", "stability_tests": "Storage of sealed sachets at 40–45 °C, seal strength, weight loss, substrate compatibility and colour.", "batch_sizes": "Essence pilot 50 L; production to 5,000 L. Sheet folding and sachet insertion need a dedicated mask line.", "regulatory_au": "Cosmetic for hydration and appearance claims. Label ingredients under the Consumer Goods (Cosmetics) Information Standard 2020." }, "sustainability": "Single-use by design; biodegradable substrates such as cupro or lyocell and lighter sachets reduce the footprint.", "sources": [ "https://doi.org/10.1111/jocd.12730", "https://doi.org/10.1111/jocd.13051", "https://www.specialchem.com/cosmetics/guide/cosmetic-face-masks-and-formulation", "https://www.iso.org/standard/75058.html" ], "shelf_life_months": { "unopened": [ 24, 36 ], "after_opening": null }, "ph": { "min": 5.0, "max": 6.5 }, "viscosity_cp": null, "fill": { "method": "cold", "temperature_c": 25, "note": "Essence is dosed into foil sachets holding folded sheets on a dedicated sheet-mask line, then heat-sealed." }, "process_steps": [ { "step": "Make the essence", "detail": "Mix a light gel or toner base." }, { "step": "Filter and release", "detail": "Check pH, viscosity and microbial limits." }, { "step": "Fold and insert sheets", "detail": "Place folded sheets into foil sachets." }, { "step": "Dose the essence", "detail": "Often 15–30 mL per sachet." }, { "step": "Heat-seal the sachets", "detail": "Check seal strength and fill volume." } ], "packaging_icons": [ "sheet-sachet", "sachet" ] }, { "slug": "eye-cream", "name": "Eye cream", "group": "skin", "system": "Oil-in-water emulsion", "one_liner": "A cream or gel-cream, usually fragrance-free, made for the thin, sensitive skin around the eyes.", "plain_explainer": "An eye cream is a small-dose emulsion made for the delicate skin under the eyes and on the eyelids. It is usually fragrance-free, low in known irritants and tested so it does not sting if it migrates into the eye. It suits routines for dryness and the look of puffiness and fine lines.", "feel": "Smooth and light, spreading easily with a gentle press and no sting.", "typical_uses": [ "Under-eye cream", "Eye gel-cream", "Eye contour balm", "Roller-ball eye treatment" ], "suits": [ "Sensitive skin", "Delicate under-eye skin", "Mature skin" ], "typical_actives": [ "Caffeine", "Peptides", "Hyaluronic acid", "Retinoids", "Niacinamide" ], "key_components": [ { "role": "Emulsifier", "examples": "Cetearyl olivate, sorbitan olivate, glyceryl stearate, polymeric emulsifiers" }, { "role": "Emollient", "examples": "Squalane, caprylic/capric triglyceride, dimethicone" }, { "role": "Humectant", "examples": "Glycerin, sodium hyaluronate" }, { "role": "Soft-focus powder", "examples": "Silica, boron nitride, mica" }, { "role": "Preservative", "examples": "A low-irritation system suited to the eye area" } ], "how_it_is_made": "Made like a cream or gel-cream in a vacuum emulsifying vessel, with care taken over fine droplet size and a smooth texture. Actives and soft-focus powders are added during cooling. Fragrance and known eye irritants are usually left out.", "packaging": [ "Small tube with nozzle", "Airless pump (15 mL)", "Tube with metal applicator tip", "Roller-ball pen" ], "fill_notes": "Filled cold in small volumes, often 15–20 mL, where dosing accuracy and tube sealing matter. Metal or ceramic applicator tips need compatibility checks.", "pros": [ "Low in known eye irritants.", "Soft-focus powders soften the look of fine lines.", "Clear place in a skin care routine." ], "cons": [ "Needs eye-area safety evidence.", "Narrow choice of fragrance and preservatives.", "Applicator tips can pick up contamination." ], "shelf_life": "Main risks are separation, loss of the active and contamination at applicator tips.", "in_the_lab": { "viscosity_range": "About 10,000–60,000 mPa·s; gel-creams sit at the lower end.", "ph_range": "Usually 5.5–7, closer to neutral for eye comfort.", "preservation": "Required; choose a system with low eye-irritation potential and challenge test to ISO 11930.", "stability_tests": "Storage at 40–45 °C, freeze–thaw, pack and applicator compatibility, and eye-area tolerance and in-use studies.", "batch_sizes": "Pilot 50 L; production to 5,000 L, though most runs sit at the small end.", "regulatory_au": "Cosmetic for appearance claims, such as the look of puffiness or fine lines; 'ophthalmologist tested' needs a supporting study. Label ingredients under the Consumer Goods (Cosmetics) Information Standard 2020." }, "sustainability": "Small packs mean a high pack-to-product ratio; refillable airless pens and recyclable aluminium tubes help.", "sources": [ "https://revistas.usp.br/bjps/article/view/97067", "https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC5849435/", "https://www.iso.org/standard/75058.html" ], "shelf_life_months": { "unopened": [ 24, 36 ], "after_opening": [ 6, 12 ] }, "ph": { "min": 5.5, "max": 7.0 }, "viscosity_cp": { "min": 10000, "max": 60000 }, "fill": { "method": "cold", "temperature_c": 25, "note": "Small volumes, often 15–20 mL, need precise dosing and tube sealing, and metal or ceramic tips are checked for compatibility." }, "process_steps": [ { "step": "Heat both phases", "detail": "Water and oil phases to about 70–80 °C." }, { "step": "Emulsify finely", "detail": "Homogenise under vacuum for small droplets." }, { "step": "Cool with sweep mixing", "detail": "Slow mixing down to about 40 °C." }, { "step": "Add actives and powders", "detail": "Soft-focus powders and actives during cooling." }, { "step": "Check texture and pH", "detail": "pH close to neutral for eye comfort." } ], "packaging_icons": [ "tube", "airless-pump", "roll-on" ] }, { "slug": "lip-balm", "name": "Lip balm", "group": "skin", "system": "Anhydrous", "one_liner": "A wax-and-oil stick or pot that softens lips and leaves a light protective layer.", "plain_explainer": "Lip balm is a waterless blend of waxes, butters and oils, poured hot into a stick or a small pot. It glides on, softens dry lips and leaves a light protective film. Tinted, flavoured and SPF versions are common.", "feel": "Smooth glide, leaving a soft, slightly glossy cushion on the lips.", "typical_uses": [ "Everyday lip balm", "Tinted lip balm", "SPF lip balm", "Overnight lip treatment" ], "suits": [ "All ages", "Dry lips" ], "typical_actives": [ "Shea butter", "Vitamin E", "Zinc oxide (SPF)", "Peptides" ], "key_components": [ { "role": "Wax", "examples": "Beeswax, candelilla, carnauba or rice bran wax" }, { "role": "Butter", "examples": "Shea, cocoa or mango butter; lanolin" }, { "role": "Oil", "examples": "Castor, jojoba, sunflower or macadamia oil" }, { "role": "Flavour or colour", "examples": "Flavours, iron oxides and other permitted colours" }, { "role": "Antioxidant", "examples": "Tocopherol" } ], "how_it_is_made": "Waxes, butters and oils are melted together at about 75–90 °C and mixed until clear. Colour is ground into oil, and flavour is added just before pouring. The melt is held hot, poured into tubes or pots and cooled quickly; some lines pass sticks under a brief heat flash for a smooth top.", "packaging": [ "Twist-up stick", "Paper push-up tube", "Tin", "Small jar or slide tin" ], "fill_notes": "Hot filled from a heated, stirred holding tank at about 70–85 °C, then cooled in a tunnel or on chilled racks. Check hardness, adhesion of the stick to the tube and the top finish.", "pros": [ "Waterless, low microbial risk.", "Small and portable for frequent reapplication.", "Suits plastic-free paper tubes and tins." ], "cons": [ "Softens or bends in hot cars and summer.", "Butters can bloom or turn grainy.", "SPF versions add testing and labelling requirements." ], "shelf_life": "Limited by oil oxidation and flavour fade. Main risks are bloom, sweating, graininess and rancid odour.", "in_the_lab": { "viscosity_range": "Solid; specify hardness (break or penetration test) and melting or drop point, often above 55 °C for Australian conditions.", "ph_range": "Not applicable; there is no water phase.", "preservation": "Usually not needed if anhydrous; support with an ISO 29621 risk assessment. Antioxidant recommended.", "stability_tests": "Heat cycling to 40–45 °C, break and bend tests, bloom and sweating checks, flavour stability and SPF testing where sun claims are made.", "batch_sizes": "Pilot 50 L; production to 5,000 L, with heated, stirred holding for hot fill.", "regulatory_au": "Cosmetic; SPF lip products remain cosmetics under the Excluded Goods Determination only if they are secondary sunscreens, contain no Schedule 2, 3, 4 or 8 substances and meet AS/NZS 2604:2021 SPF, broad-spectrum and labelling requirements. Flavours are declared as 'flavour' or 'aroma'." }, "sustainability": "Paper push-up tubes and tins replace plastic, and refillable metal cases are available.", "sources": [ "https://www.legislation.gov.au/F2018L01350/latest/text", "https://www.specialchem.com/cosmetics/guide/formulation-of-lipsticks", "https://www.iso.org/standard/68310.html", "https://www.legislation.gov.au/F2020L01469/latest/text" ], "shelf_life_months": { "unopened": [ 24, 36 ], "after_opening": [ 12, 24 ] }, "ph": null, "viscosity_cp": null, "fill": { "method": "hot", "temperature_c": 75, "note": "Poured from a heated, stirred holding tank and cooled in a tunnel, then checked for hardness and top finish." }, "process_steps": [ { "step": "Melt the base", "detail": "Waxes, butters and oils at 75–90 °C." }, { "step": "Disperse colour", "detail": "Pre-ground pigment in oil, if tinted." }, { "step": "Add flavour", "detail": "Just before pouring." }, { "step": "Pour hot", "detail": "Into stick tubes or pots." }, { "step": "Chill and finish", "detail": "Quick cooling, with an optional heat flash on top." } ], "packaging_icons": [ "stick", "tin", "jar" ] }, { "slug": "foaming-cleanser", "name": "Gel and foaming cleanser", "group": "cleansing", "system": "Surfactant system", "one_liner": "A rinse-off face wash of mild surfactants that lathers to lift oil, sunscreen and make-up.", "plain_explainer": "Clear cleansing gels and pump-foam cleansers share one surfactant base at different thicknesses. Gel cleansers come from a tube or pump and lather in wet hands; foam cleansers are thinner liquids that a foaming pump turns into ready-made foam. Both suit everyday morning and evening cleansing.", "feel": "Slippery gel or airy foam that rinses clean without a tight feel.", "typical_uses": [ "Daily face wash", "Pump-foam cleanser", "Clarifying gel cleanser", "Men's face wash" ], "suits": [ "Normal skin", "Combination skin", "Oily skin" ], "typical_actives": [ "Salicylic acid", "Glycolic acid", "Niacinamide", "Panthenol", "Allantoin" ], "key_components": [ { "role": "Primary surfactant", "examples": "Sodium cocoyl glutamate, sodium lauroyl methyl isethionate, sodium cocoyl isethionate, sodium laureth sulfate" }, { "role": "Co-surfactant", "examples": "Cocamidopropyl betaine, coco-glucoside, decyl glucoside" }, { "role": "Thickener", "examples": "Acrylates copolymer, xanthan gum, or sodium chloride with some anionics" }, { "role": "Skin-feel agent", "examples": "Glycerin, polyquaternium-7, PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate" }, { "role": "Preservative", "examples": "Sodium benzoate, potassium sorbate, phenoxyethanol" } ], "how_it_is_made": "Surfactants are blended into water with low-shear mixing to avoid foam, with gentle heat for paste or solid surfactants. Humectants, actives and preservative are added, pH is set, and viscosity is built at the end with polymer or salt. Pump-foam versions skip most of the thickening so the liquid passes through the foaming pump.", "packaging": [ "Tube", "Pump bottle", "Foaming pump bottle", "Refill pouch" ], "fill_notes": "Filled cold on a liquid filler at speeds that do not whip up foam. Foaming pumps need a low-viscosity liquid and a check of foam quality on the line.", "pros": [ "Familiar, easy daily format.", "Gel or ready-made foam from one base.", "Mild, sulfate-free systems are well established." ], "cons": [ "Harsh surfactants can dry or irritate skin.", "Viscosity can drift with pH, salt and temperature.", "Needs a robust preservative system." ], "shelf_life": "Main risks are viscosity drift, loss of clarity, colour change and microbial growth.", "in_the_lab": { "viscosity_range": "Gels about 3,000–12,000 mPa·s; foaming-pump liquids below about 50 mPa·s.", "ph_range": "Usually 5.0–6.5 for syndet systems; acid cleansers can sit lower.", "preservation": "Required, with a preservative suited to the pH. Challenge test to ISO 11930.", "stability_tests": "Storage at 40–45 °C and 4 °C, freeze–thaw, clarity, viscosity and pH tracking, and foaming-pump performance over time.", "batch_sizes": "Pilot 50 L; production to 5,000 L.", "regulatory_au": "Cosmetic for cleansing claims; anti-acne cleansers stay cosmetic only when presented as controlling or preventing acne solely through cleansing, moisturising, exfoliating or drying the skin, and contain no substance in Schedules 2, 3, 4 or 8 of the Poisons Standard. Label ingredients under the Consumer Goods (Cosmetics) Information Standard 2020." }, "sustainability": "Concentrates and refill pouches suit this format; readily biodegradable surfactants are widely available.", "sources": [ "https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/29231284/", "https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC3088928/", "https://www.legislation.gov.au/F2018L01350/latest/text", "https://www.iso.org/standard/75058.html" ], "shelf_life_months": { "unopened": [ 24, 36 ], "after_opening": [ 12, 18 ] }, "ph": { "min": 5.0, "max": 6.5 }, "viscosity_cp": { "min": 20, "max": 12000 }, "fill": { "method": "cold", "temperature_c": 25, "note": "A liquid filler runs at speeds that do not whip up foam, and foaming pumps are checked for foam quality." }, "process_steps": [ { "step": "Blend surfactants", "detail": "Into water with low-shear mixing." }, { "step": "Add humectants and actives", "detail": "Plus a preservative suited to the pH." }, { "step": "Set the pH", "detail": "Matched to the surfactants and preservative." }, { "step": "Build viscosity", "detail": "Salt or polymer; skipped for foaming pumps." } ], "packaging_icons": [ "tube", "pump-bottle", "pouch" ] }, { "slug": "cleansing-balm-oil", "name": "Cleansing balm or oil", "group": "cleansing", "system": "Anhydrous", "one_liner": "A waterless oil or balm cleanser for removing make-up and sunscreen.", "plain_explainer": "Cleansing balms and oils are oils mixed with an emulsifier that switches on when water is added. Massaged onto dry skin they dissolve make-up and sunscreen, and with a splash of water they turn milky and rinse off. Balms are set with waxes into a solid, while oils stay liquid in a pump bottle.", "feel": "Slips across dry skin, then turns milky and rinses off to a soft finish.", "typical_uses": [ "First-cleanse make-up remover", "Sunscreen removal", "Double-cleanse routines", "Facial massage cleanse" ], "suits": [ "Dry skin", "Normal skin" ], "typical_actives": [ "Vitamin E", "Bisabolol", "Calendula extract" ], "key_components": [ { "role": "Oil phase", "examples": "Caprylic/capric triglyceride, sunflower oil, jojoba oil, ethylhexyl palmitate" }, { "role": "Rinse-off emulsifier", "examples": "PEG-20 glyceryl triisostearate, polyglyceryl-4 oleate, polyglyceryl-10 esters, sorbeth-30 tetraoleate" }, { "role": "Structuring wax (balms)", "examples": "Candelilla wax, hydrogenated vegetable oils, polyethylene" }, { "role": "Antioxidant", "examples": "Tocopherol" } ], "how_it_is_made": "For an oil, oils and emulsifiers are blended at room temperature; for a balm, waxes are melted into the oils at about 75–85 °C. The batch is cooled slightly before fragrance and oil-soluble ingredients are added. Balms are hot filled into jars and left to set; oils are filtered and filled cold.", "packaging": [ "Jar", "Tin", "Pump bottle", "Glass bottle" ], "fill_notes": "Balms are hot filled and cooled to set, with surface and shrinkage checks. Oils are filled cold into packs with pumps rated for oils. Keep water out of the line, because it clouds the product.", "pros": [ "Removes long-wear make-up and water-resistant sunscreen.", "Waterless, so low microbial risk while kept dry.", "Gentle, non-foaming cleanse." ], "cons": [ "Wet fingers in a jar can bring in microbes.", "Too little emulsifier can leave a film.", "Balms can soften or melt in heat." ], "shelf_life": "Limited by oil oxidation. Main risks are cloudiness, sweating, graininess and rancid odour.", "in_the_lab": { "viscosity_range": "Oils about 20–100 mPa·s; balms are semi-solid and specified by hardness and melting point.", "ph_range": "Not applicable; there is no water phase.", "preservation": "Often unpreserved, supported by an ISO 29621 risk assessment. Some jar balms add an oil-soluble preservative because of wet-hand use.", "stability_tests": "Heat cycling, melting point, oxidation checks, rinse-off and emulsification tests with water, and pack compatibility.", "batch_sizes": "Pilot 50 L; production to 5,000 L, with heated holding for balms.", "regulatory_au": "Cosmetic for cleansing and make-up removal claims. Label ingredients under the Consumer Goods (Cosmetics) Information Standard 2020." }, "sustainability": "Waterless and concentrated; balms suit glass jars and tins, and a spatula reduces contamination and waste.", "sources": [ "https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/29231284/", "https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC3088928/", "https://www.iso.org/standard/68310.html" ], "shelf_life_months": { "unopened": [ 18, 24 ], "after_opening": [ 6, 12 ] }, "ph": null, "viscosity_cp": null, "fill": { "method": "hot", "temperature_c": 70, "note": "Cleansing oils skip the hot fill and go into oil-rated pumps, and water is kept off the line because it clouds the product." }, "process_steps": [ { "step": "Blend oils and emulsifier", "detail": "At room temperature for cleansing oils." }, { "step": "Melt in waxes (balms)", "detail": "At about 75–85 °C." }, { "step": "Add oil-soluble ingredients", "detail": "Fragrance and actives after slight cooling." }, { "step": "Fill and set", "detail": "Balms hot filled; oils filtered and filled cold." } ], "packaging_icons": [ "jar", "tin", "pump-bottle", "bottle" ] }, { "slug": "micellar-water", "name": "Micellar water", "group": "cleansing", "system": "Surfactant system", "one_liner": "A water-thin cleanser of very mild surfactants, used on a cotton pad and often not rinsed.", "plain_explainer": "Micellar water looks like water but holds a low level of very mild surfactants that gather into tiny clusters called micelles. These pick up make-up and oil when swept across skin on a pad. A shake-before-use two-phase version adds an oil layer for waterproof make-up.", "feel": "Like water on a pad, leaving skin fresh with no film.", "typical_uses": [ "Make-up remover", "Gentle morning cleanse", "Eye make-up removal", "Travel and gym cleanser" ], "suits": [ "Sensitive skin", "Dry skin" ], "typical_actives": [ "Glycerin", "Panthenol", "Niacinamide", "Cucumber extract", "Allantoin" ], "key_components": [ { "role": "Mild surfactant", "examples": "Poloxamer 184 or 188, PEG-6 caprylic/capric glycerides, polyglyceryl-4 caprate, coco-glucoside" }, { "role": "Humectant and solvent", "examples": "Glycerin, propanediol, hexylene glycol" }, { "role": "Chelating agent", "examples": "Disodium EDTA, sodium phytate" }, { "role": "Preservative", "examples": "Phenoxyethanol, sodium benzoate or a gentle multifunctional blend" } ], "how_it_is_made": "A cold process: surfactants and humectants are dissolved in purified water with gentle mixing to avoid foam. Chelating agent, actives and preservative are added, pH is set, and the solution is filtered for clarity. Two-phase versions are made as separate oil and water phases and combined at filling.", "packaging": [ "Flip-top bottle", "Pump-top bottle", "Large bottle with dispensing cap", "Refill bottle" ], "fill_notes": "Filled cold on a liquid filler; water-thin liquids fill quickly. Two-phase products need a two-step or ratio fill to get the layer split right.", "pros": [ "Very gentle, no-rinse convenience.", "Two-phase versions lift waterproof make-up.", "Suits eye make-up removal." ], "cons": [ "Leaves surfactant on skin if not rinsed.", "Mostly water, so heavy to ship.", "Needs gentle but effective preservation." ], "shelf_life": "Main risks are haze, odour change and microbial growth, plus poor layer separation in two-phase types.", "in_the_lab": { "viscosity_range": "Water-like, below about 10 mPa·s.", "ph_range": "Usually 5.0–6.5, close to skin pH.", "preservation": "Required, as water activity is high and packs are large. Challenge test to ISO 11930.", "stability_tests": "Storage at 40–45 °C and 4 °C, freeze–thaw, clarity and cloud point, and eye-tolerance testing for eye-area claims.", "batch_sizes": "Pilot 50 L; production to 5,000 L.", "regulatory_au": "Cosmetic; eye-area use needs suitable safety evidence, and 'ophthalmologist tested' needs a supporting study. Label ingredients under the Consumer Goods (Cosmetics) Information Standard 2020." }, "sustainability": "Mostly water, so concentrates and large refills help. Reusable cotton pads pair well with this format.", "sources": [ "https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/29231284/", "https://revistas.usp.br/bjps/article/view/97067", "https://www.iso.org/standard/75058.html" ], "shelf_life_months": { "unopened": [ 24, 36 ], "after_opening": [ 6, 12 ] }, "ph": { "min": 5.0, "max": 6.5 }, "viscosity_cp": { "min": 1, "max": 10 }, "fill": { "method": "cold", "temperature_c": 25, "note": "Uses a liquid filler, with a two-step or ratio fill so two-phase types get the right layer split." }, "process_steps": [ { "step": "Dissolve surfactants", "detail": "Mild surfactants and humectants in purified water." }, { "step": "Add chelator and preservative", "detail": "Plus actives, mixing gently to avoid foam." }, { "step": "Adjust pH", "detail": "Close to skin pH." }, { "step": "Filter for clarity", "detail": "Polish filter; two-phase types filled as layers." } ], "packaging_icons": [ "squeeze-bottle", "pump-bottle", "bottle" ] }, { "slug": "syndet-bar", "name": "Syndet bar", "group": "cleansing", "system": "Solid", "one_liner": "A solid cleansing bar made from mild synthetic surfactants instead of soap, so it is gentler on skin.", "plain_explainer": "A syndet bar looks like soap but is made from mild synthetic surfactants, so it cleans at a skin-friendly pH. It suits face and body cleansing and also makes a solid shampoo. It needs no plastic bottle, which suits plastic-free and low-water routines.", "feel": "Creamy, dense lather that rinses away to a soft, non-tight finish.", "typical_uses": [ "Face and body bar", "Solid shampoo", "Sensitive-skin cleansing bar", "Travel cleanser" ], "suits": [ "Sensitive skin", "Dry skin" ], "typical_actives": [ "Shea butter", "Colloidal oatmeal", "Ceramides", "Panthenol" ], "key_components": [ { "role": "Primary surfactant", "examples": "Sodium cocoyl isethionate, sodium lauroyl methyl isethionate, disodium lauryl sulfosuccinate" }, { "role": "Binder or filler", "examples": "Stearic acid, cetearyl alcohol, starch, maltodextrin, clays" }, { "role": "Co-surfactant", "examples": "Cocamidopropyl betaine, sodium cocoyl glutamate" }, { "role": "Emollient and humectant", "examples": "Shea butter, plant oils, glycerin" } ], "how_it_is_made": "Surfactants, fatty acids and binders are melted or mixed into a dough with little water. The mass is milled, extruded through a plodder and stamped into bars, or pressed or poured into moulds for smaller runs. Bars are cured and dried before wrapping.", "packaging": [ "Paper or card wrap", "Carton", "Compostable film", "Tin for travel" ], "fill_notes": "Not filled: bars are extruded, cut and stamped, or moulded. Weight, hardness and dimensions are checked each batch before wrapping.", "pros": [ "Plastic-free, low-water format.", "Mild cleansing at near-skin pH.", "Light and compact to ship." ], "cons": [ "Needs milling, plodding and stamping equipment.", "Turns mushy if left wet.", "Fragrance can fade over time." ], "shelf_life": "Main risks are cracking, sweating, fragrance loss and softening in humidity.", "in_the_lab": { "viscosity_range": "Solid; specify hardness, moisture content and wear rate.", "ph_range": "Usually 5.5–7, measured on a 1–10% solution.", "preservation": "Usually not needed because water activity is low; confirm with an ISO 29621 risk assessment.", "stability_tests": "Heat and humidity storage, mush and wear-rate tests, cracking, and fragrance and colour stability.", "batch_sizes": "Made on bar-forming equipment rather than emulsifying vessels.", "regulatory_au": "Cosmetic for cleansing claims, following the same ingredient labelling standard as other cosmetics. If surfactants or fragrances are imported, the importer registers its business with AICIS and categorises each introduction." }, "sustainability": "Low-water, light to ship and plastic-free in paper, card or tin; paper wraps keep packaging minimal.", "sources": [ "https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC3088928/", "https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/29231284/", "https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/8901393/", "https://www.industrialchemicals.gov.au/cosmetics-and-soap/soap-making-and-importing" ], "shelf_life_months": { "unopened": [ 24, 36 ], "after_opening": [ 12, 24 ] }, "ph": { "min": 5.5, "max": 7.0 }, "viscosity_cp": null, "fill": { "method": "none", "temperature_c": null, "note": "Not liquid-filled: bars are extruded, cut and stamped or moulded, then checked for weight, hardness and size before wrapping." }, "process_steps": [ { "step": "Mix the dough", "detail": "Surfactants, fatty acids and binders with little water." }, { "step": "Mill for uniformity", "detail": "Roll-mill with fragrance and colour." }, { "step": "Extrude through plodder", "detail": "Forms a dense, continuous bar log." }, { "step": "Cut and stamp", "detail": "Or press or pour into moulds." }, { "step": "Cure and wrap", "detail": "Dry the bars before wrapping." } ], "packaging_icons": [ "bar", "tin" ] }, { "slug": "shampoo", "name": "Shampoo", "group": "hair", "system": "Surfactant system", "one_liner": "A foaming hair and scalp cleanser based on surfactants, often with light conditioning built in.", "plain_explainer": "Shampoo is a thickened blend of surfactants in water that lifts oil, sweat and styling product from hair and scalp. Conditioning polymers deposit as it rinses, so hair is easier to comb. Common variants include sulfate-free, colour-safe and scalp-care shampoos.", "feel": "Rich lather that rinses clean, leaving hair soft rather than squeaky.", "typical_uses": [ "Everyday shampoo", "Colour-safe shampoo", "Clarifying shampoo", "Scalp-care or anti-dandruff shampoo" ], "suits": [ "All hair types", "Coloured hair" ], "typical_actives": [ "Panthenol", "Hydrolysed keratin", "Salicylic acid", "Piroctone olamine", "Niacinamide" ], "key_components": [ { "role": "Primary surfactant", "examples": "Sodium laureth sulfate, sodium cocoyl isethionate, sodium lauroyl methyl isethionate, sodium cocoyl glutamate" }, { "role": "Co-surfactant", "examples": "Cocamidopropyl betaine, decyl glucoside, sodium lauroamphoacetate" }, { "role": "Conditioning polymer", "examples": "Guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, polyquaternium-10" }, { "role": "Thickener", "examples": "Sodium chloride, acrylates copolymer, PEG-150 distearate" }, { "role": "Preservative and pH adjuster", "examples": "Sodium benzoate, citric acid" } ], "how_it_is_made": "Surfactants are added to water with low-shear mixing to avoid foam; pearlescent agents or solid surfactants may need heating to about 70 °C. Conditioning polymer is pre-dispersed and added, followed by actives, fragrance and preservative. pH is adjusted and viscosity is built at the end with salt or polymer.", "packaging": [ "Flip-top bottle", "Pump bottle", "Refill pouch", "Salon litre bottle" ], "fill_notes": "Filled cold on a liquid or piston filler at speeds that do not create foam. Viscosity must suit the cap or pump.", "pros": [ "Leaves hair easier to comb.", "Many sulfate-free and naturally derived systems available.", "Variants for colour, scalp and clarifying care." ], "cons": [ "Viscosity is sensitive to salt, pH and fragrance.", "Harsh surfactants can strip colour or irritate the scalp.", "Needs a robust preservative system." ], "shelf_life": "Main risks are viscosity drift, separation of pearl or silicone, and colour or odour change.", "in_the_lab": { "viscosity_range": "About 3,000–12,000 mPa·s.", "ph_range": "Usually 4.5–6.5.", "preservation": "Required; a broad-spectrum system validated by challenge test to ISO 11930.", "stability_tests": "Storage at 40–45 °C and 4 °C, freeze–thaw, viscosity and pH tracking, and suspension stability for pearl or silicones.", "batch_sizes": "Pilot 50 L; production to 5,000 L.", "regulatory_au": "Cosmetic; anti-dandruff shampoos stay outside TGA regulation only when dandruff claims are limited to controlling or preventing dandruff through cleansing, moisturising, exfoliating or drying the scalp; other dandruff claims make them therapeutic goods. NSW bans plastic microbeads in rinse-off products." }, "sustainability": "Concentrates, refill pouches and solid shampoo bars reduce plastic and freight; readily biodegradable surfactants are widely available.", "sources": [ "https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC4458934/", "https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC4387693/", "https://www.legislation.gov.au/F2018L01350/latest/text", "https://www.epa.nsw.gov.au/your-environment/waste/reducing-your-household-waste/what-are-microbeads" ], "shelf_life_months": { "unopened": [ 24, 36 ], "after_opening": [ 12, 24 ] }, "ph": { "min": 4.5, "max": 6.5 }, "viscosity_cp": { "min": 3000, "max": 12000 }, "fill": { "method": "cold", "temperature_c": 25, "note": "A liquid or piston filler runs at speeds that do not create foam, with viscosity matched to the cap or pump." }, "process_steps": [ { "step": "Blend surfactants", "detail": "Into water with low-shear mixing." }, { "step": "Heat if needed", "detail": "About 70 °C for pearl or solid surfactants." }, { "step": "Add conditioning polymer", "detail": "Pre-dispersed, then actives and fragrance." }, { "step": "Adjust pH", "detail": "Usually with citric acid." }, { "step": "Build viscosity", "detail": "With salt or polymer at the end." } ], "packaging_icons": [ "squeeze-bottle", "pump-bottle", "pouch" ] }, { "slug": "conditioner-hair-mask", "name": "Conditioner and hair mask", "group": "hair", "system": "Oil-in-water emulsion", "one_liner": "A creamy rinse-off formula that smooths, detangles and softens hair; masks are thicker and richer.", "plain_explainer": "Conditioners and hair masks share one system: a cream made with positively charged conditioning agents that cling to hair as it is rinsed. Conditioner is used after every wash, while a mask carries more conditioning agents and oils and is left on longer. Both follow shampoo in the wash routine.", "feel": "Slippery and creamy, gliding easily through wet hair.", "typical_uses": [ "Daily conditioner", "Deep-conditioning hair mask", "Colour-care treatment", "Detangling conditioner" ], "suits": [ "All hair types", "Dry hair", "Coloured hair" ], "typical_actives": [ "Hydrolysed keratin", "Panthenol", "Ceramides", "Argan oil" ], "key_components": [ { "role": "Cationic conditioning agent", "examples": "Behentrimonium chloride, cetrimonium chloride, behentrimonium methosulfate, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine" }, { "role": "Fatty alcohol", "examples": "Cetearyl, cetyl or behenyl alcohol" }, { "role": "Conditioning oil or silicone", "examples": "Amodimethicone, dimethicone, plant oils, esters" }, { "role": "Humectant", "examples": "Glycerin, panthenol" }, { "role": "Preservative and pH adjuster", "examples": "Sodium benzoate, citric acid, lactic acid" } ], "how_it_is_made": "Fatty alcohols and the cationic conditioning agent are melted and added to hot water at about 70–80 °C. As the batch cools under controlled mixing, they form a gel network that thickens the cream and carries conditioning onto hair. Oils, actives, fragrance and preservative are added during cooling, then pH is set in the acidic range.", "packaging": [ "Flip-top bottle", "Pump bottle", "Jar (masks)", "Tube or sachet" ], "fill_notes": "Usually filled once cool. Conditioners suit bottles and pumps; thick masks need piston fillers and jars or tubes.", "pros": [ "Leaves wet hair easy to comb.", "One base stretches from light conditioner to rich mask.", "Well understood, robust system." ], "cons": [ "Cooling rate and mixing set the final thickness.", "Heavy versions can weigh down fine hair.", "Cationic agents need care for eye and skin safety." ], "shelf_life": "Main risks are thickening or thinning over time, separation and microbial growth.", "in_the_lab": { "viscosity_range": "Conditioners about 5,000–30,000 mPa·s; masks about 30,000–150,000 mPa·s.", "ph_range": "Usually 3.5–5.0.", "preservation": "Required; a broad-spectrum system validated by challenge test to ISO 11930.", "stability_tests": "Storage at 40–45 °C, freeze–thaw, centrifuge, and viscosity tracking over 3 months, because gel networks can keep building.", "batch_sizes": "Pilot 50 L; production to 5,000 L.", "regulatory_au": "Cosmetic; claims about hair loss or scalp conditions move a product toward therapeutic regulation. Label ingredients under the Consumer Goods (Cosmetics) Information Standard 2020." }, "sustainability": "Refill pouches suit this system, and the same cationic chemistry also makes waterless solid conditioner bars; readily biodegradable cationic agents are available.", "sources": [ "https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC4458934/", "https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC4387693/", "https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC12240587/" ], "shelf_life_months": { "unopened": [ 24, 36 ], "after_opening": [ 12, 24 ] }, "ph": { "min": 3.5, "max": 5.0 }, "viscosity_cp": { "min": 5000, "max": 150000 }, "fill": { "method": "cold", "temperature_c": 25, "note": "Conditioners suit bottles and pumps, while thick masks need a piston filler and jars or tubes." }, "process_steps": [ { "step": "Heat the water", "detail": "To about 70–80 °C." }, { "step": "Add melted fatty phase", "detail": "Fatty alcohols with the cationic conditioning agent." }, { "step": "Cool under control", "detail": "Forms the gel network that thickens it." }, { "step": "Add oils and actives", "detail": "Plus fragrance and preservative during cooling." }, { "step": "Set acidic pH", "detail": "With citric or lactic acid." } ], "packaging_icons": [ "squeeze-bottle", "pump-bottle", "jar", "tube" ] }, { "slug": "hair-oil-serum", "name": "Hair oil or serum", "group": "hair", "system": "Anhydrous", "one_liner": "A leave-in oil or silicone blend that smooths frizz, adds shine and helps protect ends.", "plain_explainer": "Hair oils and serums are waterless blends of plant oils, esters or silicones applied in a few drops to damp or dry hair. They coat the hair surface to reduce frizz and add shine, and some oils also condition the fibre. They work well as a finishing step after heat styling.", "feel": "Silky and slippery, leaving hair glossy without stiffness.", "typical_uses": [ "Smoothing hair serum", "Hair oil treatment", "Heat-protect serum", "Pre-wash oil" ], "suits": [ "Dry hair", "Curly hair", "Coloured hair" ], "typical_actives": [ "Argan oil", "Coconut oil", "Vitamin E" ], "key_components": [ { "role": "Silicone or alternative", "examples": "Dimethicone, amodimethicone; or C13-15 alkane, coco-caprylate" }, { "role": "Plant oil", "examples": "Argan, coconut, camellia or macadamia oil" }, { "role": "Antioxidant", "examples": "Tocopherol" }, { "role": "Fragrance", "examples": "Fragrance or essential oils" } ], "how_it_is_made": "Oils, esters and silicones are blended at room temperature until uniform and clear; oils that are solid when cool, such as coconut oil, are first warmed gently until melted. Antioxidant goes in early, then fragrance. The blend is filtered and filled, with no emulsifying step.", "packaging": [ "Glass or PET bottle with pump", "Dropper bottle", "Spray pump" ], "fill_notes": "Filled cold on a liquid filler. Check that pumps and seals are compatible with silicones and oils.", "pros": [ "A few drops go a long way.", "Waterless, low microbial risk.", "Works on damp or dry hair." ], "cons": [ "Can weigh down fine hair.", "Plant oils oxidise over time.", "Some cyclic silicones are restricted in the EU." ], "shelf_life": "Silicone-rich blends last longer than plant-oil blends. Main risks are oxidation, haze and odour change.", "in_the_lab": { "viscosity_range": "About 10–500 mPa·s.", "ph_range": "Not applicable; there is no water phase.", "preservation": "Usually not needed if anhydrous; support with an ISO 29621 risk assessment.", "stability_tests": "Oxidation checks, storage at 40–45 °C, clarity at low temperature and pack compatibility.", "batch_sizes": "Pilot 50 L; production to 5,000 L.", "regulatory_au": "Cosmetic; heat-protection claims should be supported by testing. Label ingredients under the Consumer Goods (Cosmetics) Information Standard 2020." }, "sustainability": "Concentrated, so a small pack lasts; silicone-free and readily biodegradable alternatives are available.", "sources": [ "https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/12715094/", "https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC12240587/", "https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC4387693/" ], "shelf_life_months": { "unopened": [ 18, 36 ], "after_opening": [ 12, 18 ] }, "ph": null, "viscosity_cp": { "min": 10, "max": 500 }, "fill": { "method": "cold", "temperature_c": 25, "note": "Pumps and seals are checked for compatibility with silicones and oils." }, "process_steps": [ { "step": "Blend oils and silicones", "detail": "At room temperature until clear; warm solid oils first." }, { "step": "Add antioxidant", "detail": "Tocopherol goes in early to protect the oils." }, { "step": "Add fragrance", "detail": "Mix until uniform." }, { "step": "Filter and fill", "detail": "No emulsifying needed." } ], "packaging_icons": [ "pump-bottle", "dropper-bottle", "spray-bottle" ] }, { "slug": "styling-cream", "name": "Styling cream", "group": "hair", "system": "Oil-in-water emulsion", "one_liner": "A leave-in cream that adds soft hold, defines texture and tames frizz without stiffness.", "plain_explainer": "A styling cream is a light emulsion with film-forming polymers and conditioning ingredients, worked through damp or dry hair. It gives flexible hold and definition while keeping hair soft and touchable. It suits curls, waves and smoothing styles, and doubles as a grooming cream.", "feel": "Soft and smooth between the fingers, leaving hair touchable and movable.", "typical_uses": [ "Curl cream", "Smoothing cream", "Texture or grooming cream", "Leave-in conditioner" ], "suits": [ "Curly hair", "Wavy hair", "Textured hair" ], "typical_actives": [ "Panthenol", "Hydrolysed keratin", "Shea butter" ], "key_components": [ { "role": "Emulsifier", "examples": "Cetearyl alcohol with behentrimonium chloride, glyceryl stearate, polymeric emulsifiers" }, { "role": "Film-forming polymer", "examples": "PVP, VP/VA copolymer, polyquaternium-11 or -69, acrylates copolymers, plant gums" }, { "role": "Emollient", "examples": "Plant oils, esters, silicones" }, { "role": "Humectant", "examples": "Glycerin, propanediol" }, { "role": "Preservative", "examples": "Phenoxyethanol or organic acid systems" } ], "how_it_is_made": "Made like a cream or conditioner: heated oil and water phases are homogenised in a vacuum emulsifying vessel and cooled. Styling polymers are pre-dissolved in water and added during cooling, followed by fragrance and preservative. Viscosity and hold are checked against the approved standard.", "packaging": [ "Tube", "Jar", "Pump bottle" ], "fill_notes": "Filled cold with a piston filler; jars suit thick grooming creams and tubes suit softer curl creams.", "pros": [ "Flexible hold with a conditioned feel.", "Works on damp or dry hair.", "One base covers curl, smoothing and grooming creams." ], "cons": [ "Polymers can flake at high levels.", "Hold and humidity resistance need testing.", "Salt and some polymers can destabilise it." ], "shelf_life": "Main risks are viscosity change, separation and microbial growth.", "in_the_lab": { "viscosity_range": "About 15,000–80,000 mPa·s.", "ph_range": "Usually 4.0–6.0.", "preservation": "Required; a broad-spectrum system validated by challenge test to ISO 11930.", "stability_tests": "Storage at 40–45 °C, freeze–thaw, viscosity tracking, and hold and humidity performance tests.", "batch_sizes": "Pilot 50 L; production to 5,000 L.", "regulatory_au": "Cosmetic. Label ingredients under the Consumer Goods (Cosmetics) Information Standard 2020." }, "sustainability": "PP tubes and jars suit this format and are recyclable where local collection accepts them; plant-based styling polymers are increasingly available.", "sources": [ "https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC4387693/", "https://www.lubrizol.com/-/media/Lubrizol/Personal-Care/Documents/Literature/CP-39-Fixate-G-100-PR-Polymer-Quick-Start-Guide.pdf", "https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC4458934/" ], "shelf_life_months": { "unopened": [ 24, 36 ], "after_opening": [ 12, 18 ] }, "ph": { "min": 4.0, "max": 6.0 }, "viscosity_cp": { "min": 15000, "max": 80000 }, "fill": { "method": "cold", "temperature_c": 25, "note": "A piston filler fills jars for thick grooming creams and tubes for softer curl creams." }, "process_steps": [ { "step": "Heat both phases", "detail": "Oil and water phases to about 70–80 °C." }, { "step": "Emulsify under vacuum", "detail": "Homogenise, then cool with sweep mixing." }, { "step": "Add styling polymers", "detail": "Pre-dissolved in water, added during cooling." }, { "step": "Finish and check", "detail": "Fragrance and preservative, then viscosity and hold." } ], "packaging_icons": [ "tube", "jar", "pump-bottle" ] }, { "slug": "dry-shampoo", "name": "Dry shampoo", "group": "hair", "system": "Powder", "one_liner": "A waterless powder, shaken or sprayed onto roots, that absorbs oil and refreshes hair between washes.", "plain_explainer": "Dry shampoo uses fine absorbent powders, such as rice or tapioca starch, to soak up oil at the roots without water. It comes as a shaker powder or as an aerosol in which the powder is carried in alcohol and propellant. It adds volume and refreshes second-day hair between washes.", "feel": "Dry and light, adding grip and volume at the roots.", "typical_uses": [ "Refresh between washes", "Root volume and texture", "Tinted dry shampoo", "Travel hair care" ], "suits": [ "Oily roots", "Fine hair" ], "typical_actives": [], "key_components": [ { "role": "Absorbent powder", "examples": "Oryza sativa (rice) starch, tapioca starch, aluminium starch octenylsuccinate, silica, kaolin" }, { "role": "Flow aid", "examples": "Silica, magnesium stearate" }, { "role": "Tint (powders)", "examples": "Iron oxides, cocoa powder, activated charcoal for dark shades" }, { "role": "Carrier and propellant (aerosols)", "examples": "Ethanol; butane, isobutane, propane" }, { "role": "Fragrance", "examples": "Fragrance or essential oils" } ], "how_it_is_made": "Powder versions are blended in a ribbon or V-blender, with fragrance sprayed onto the powder and the blend sieved for an even texture. Aerosol versions suspend the powder in ethanol, then the concentrate is filled into cans and gassed with propellant. Both need dust control in the production area.", "packaging": [ "Shaker bottle", "Puffer powder bottle", "Aerosol can" ], "fill_notes": "Powders are filled by auger or volumetric filler into shaker packs. Aerosols are filled and gassed on a dedicated line with flammable-propellant controls and leak testing.", "pros": [ "Waterless and quick to use.", "Powder versions are simple and low microbial risk.", "Tinted versions blend into darker hair." ], "cons": [ "Aerosols are flammable dangerous goods.", "Propellant purity must be controlled.", "Powder handling needs dust control." ], "shelf_life": "Main risks are caking, fragrance loss, valve clogging and can corrosion.", "in_the_lab": { "viscosity_range": "Not applicable; specify particle size, bulk density, flow and oil absorption instead.", "ph_range": "Not applicable as made; a 10% slurry can be checked if needed.", "preservation": "Usually not needed in dry powders or high-alcohol aerosols; specify low-count starches and confirm with ISO 29621.", "stability_tests": "Caking under heat and humidity, fragrance stability and, for aerosols, spray rate, valve function, pressure and can corrosion.", "batch_sizes": "Powder blending and aerosol gassing are specialist lines.", "regulatory_au": "Cosmetic; aerosols are Class 2 dangerous goods under the ADG Code for road and rail transport, and their storage in Victoria falls under the Dangerous Goods (Storage and Handling) Regulations 2022. Set propellant impurity limits, as benzene traced to propellant led to dry shampoo recalls in 2021." }, "sustainability": "Powder shakers avoid propellant and suit refills; empty aerosol cans are recyclable metal.", "sources": [ "https://www.fda.gov/safety/recalls-market-withdrawals-safety-alerts/pg-issues-voluntary-recall-aerosol-dry-conditioner-spray-products-and-aerosol-dry-shampoo-spray", "https://www.ntc.gov.au/codes-and-guidelines/australian-dangerous-goods-code", "https://www.iso.org/standard/68310.html" ], "shelf_life_months": { "unopened": [ 24, 36 ], "after_opening": [ 12, 24 ] }, "ph": null, "viscosity_cp": null, "fill": { "method": "none", "temperature_c": null, "note": "Powder is auger-filled into shaker packs, while aerosols are filled and gassed on a dedicated line with propellant controls." }, "process_steps": [ { "step": "Blend the powders", "detail": "Starches, silica and clays in a ribbon blender." }, { "step": "Add fragrance", "detail": "Sprayed onto the powder while blending." }, { "step": "Sieve for texture", "detail": "Remove lumps for an even feel." }, { "step": "Fill powder or concentrate", "detail": "Shaker packs, or ethanol slurry for aerosols." }, { "step": "Gas aerosols", "detail": "Add propellant, then crimp and leak test." } ], "packaging_icons": [ "bottle", "aerosol" ] }, { "slug": "sunscreen-lotion", "name": "Sunscreen lotion", "group": "sun", "system": "Oil-in-water emulsion", "one_liner": "A lotion or cream that protects skin from UV, regulated in Australia as a therapeutic good.", "plain_explainer": "A sunscreen lotion is an emulsion carrying UV filters that spreads into an even, protective film on skin. Products sold mainly for sun protection are therapeutic goods in Australia, listed with the TGA and tested to the Australian sunscreen standard. Water-resistant versions rely on film-formers or a water-in-oil base.", "feel": "Smooth and spreadable, drying to a light film; mineral types can leave a soft white cast.", "typical_uses": [ "Daily face sunscreen", "Body and family sunscreen", "Water-resistant sport sunscreen", "Tinted mineral sunscreen" ], "suits": [ "All skin types", "Children and adults", "Hot, sunny climates" ], "typical_actives": [ "Zinc oxide", "Titanium dioxide", "Bemotrizinol", "Avobenzone", "Octocrylene" ], "key_components": [ { "role": "UV filter", "examples": "Zinc oxide, titanium dioxide, bemotrizinol, avobenzone, octocrylene, ethylhexyl triazone" }, { "role": "Emulsifier", "examples": "Polyglyceryl esters, potassium cetyl phosphate, polymeric emulsifiers" }, { "role": "Emollient or filter solvent", "examples": "C12-15 alkyl benzoate, dibutyl adipate, caprylic/capric triglyceride" }, { "role": "Film-former", "examples": "Acrylates copolymers, VP/eicosene copolymer, waxes" }, { "role": "Preservative", "examples": "Phenoxyethanol or organic acid systems" } ], "how_it_is_made": "Organic filters are dissolved in the heated oil phase, and mineral filters are dispersed carefully to break up clumps. The oil and water phases are homogenised under vacuum, then cooled with slow mixing, with heat-sensitive ingredients and preservative added late. Each batch is checked for appearance, viscosity and filter content before release.", "packaging": [ "Tube", "Pump bottle", "Flip-top bottle", "Airless pump (face)" ], "fill_notes": "Filled cold under the manufacturer's TGA GMP licence. Keep the bulk uniform throughout filling so filter content is even from the first unit to the last.", "pros": [ "Suits daily face and body use.", "Texture can be tuned from fluid to cream.", "Works with mineral, organic or hybrid filters." ], "cons": [ "ARTG listing and SPF testing are required.", "Filters can crystallise or degrade if unbalanced.", "Mineral filters can whiten and thicken over time." ], "shelf_life": "An expiry date is required, supported by accelerated and real-time stability data. Main risks are filter crystallisation, separation, viscosity change and loss of SPF.", "in_the_lab": { "viscosity_range": "About 5,000–40,000 mPa·s; face fluids lower.", "ph_range": "Usually 5.5–7.5; zinc oxide systems often near 7.", "preservation": "Required; it must meet TGA microbiological standards for medicines, including preservative efficacy for multidose packs.", "stability_tests": "Per TGA guidance, at least two batches go through accelerated storage 10–15 °C above the label storage temperature for 6–9 months, then real-time confirmation. Tests cover appearance, emulsion stability, crystallisation, viscosity, filter assay and pack compatibility.", "batch_sizes": "Pilot 50 L; production to 5,000 L.", "regulatory_au": "Primary sunscreens of SPF 4 and above are therapeutic goods: listed on the ARTG (AUST L), limited to permitted filters and claims, made under TGA GMP and tested to AS/NZS 2604:2021 (SPF by ISO 24444, broad spectrum by ISO 24443, water resistance by ISO 16217). The sponsor must list the product on the ARTG before supply." }, "sustainability": "Larger family packs and recyclable tubes reduce packaging per use. Environmental claims such as 'reef safe' need evidence under Australian Consumer Law.", "sources": [ "https://www.tga.gov.au/products/medicines/therapeutic-sunscreens/overview/sunscreen-regulation-australia", "https://www.tga.gov.au/sites/default/files/2025-08/understanding-regulation-therapeutic-sunscreens.pdf", "https://periodicos.usp.br/bjps/article/view/207308", "https://www.lubrizol.com/-/media/Lubrizol/Health/TDS/TDS-232_Waterproof_Sunscreens_with_Pemulen_TR-1_TR-2.pdf" ], "shelf_life_months": { "unopened": [ 24, 36 ], "after_opening": [ 12, 12 ] }, "ph": { "min": 5.5, "max": 7.5 }, "viscosity_cp": { "min": 5000, "max": 40000 }, "fill": { "method": "cold", "temperature_c": 25, "note": "Filled under TGA GMP, with the bulk kept uniform so filter content is even from the first unit to the last." }, "process_steps": [ { "step": "Dissolve organic filters", "detail": "In the heated oil phase." }, { "step": "Disperse mineral filters", "detail": "Break up clumps with careful high shear." }, { "step": "Emulsify under vacuum", "detail": "Homogenise the oil and water phases." }, { "step": "Cool and finish", "detail": "Heat-sensitive ingredients and preservative go in late." }, { "step": "Assay before release", "detail": "Check appearance, viscosity and filter content." } ], "packaging_icons": [ "tube", "pump-bottle", "squeeze-bottle", "airless-pump" ] }, { "slug": "spf-mist", "name": "SPF mist or spray", "group": "sun", "system": "Oil-in-water emulsion", "one_liner": "A thin sunscreen lotion in a pump or trigger spray, for fast body coverage.", "plain_explainer": "SPF lotion sprays carry UV filters in a thin emulsion that a pump or trigger spray lays down as a fine mist. They make body coverage and reapplication quick, but enough product must be applied and rubbed in for even cover. Clear alcohol-based sprays and aerosols are a separate build.", "feel": "Light and quick-drying, a thin lotion that spreads from a fine mist.", "typical_uses": [ "Body sunscreen spray", "Family and kids' spray", "Sport reapplication" ], "suits": [ "Children and adults", "Hot, sunny climates" ], "typical_actives": [ "Bemotrizinol", "Avobenzone", "Octocrylene", "Ethylhexyl triazone", "Zinc oxide" ], "key_components": [ { "role": "UV filter", "examples": "Organic filters; mineral filters in lotion sprays" }, { "role": "Carrier", "examples": "Water with polymeric emulsifiers" }, { "role": "Film-former", "examples": "Acrylates copolymers, polyester-5, VP/eicosene copolymer" }, { "role": "Emollient", "examples": "C12-15 alkyl benzoate, dibutyl adipate, light esters" } ], "how_it_is_made": "Lotion sprays are made like a sunscreen lotion but kept thin, using polymeric emulsifiers so the emulsion stays stable at low viscosity. Clear alcohol sprays and aerosol concentrates are a separate build: solid filters are dissolved in warmed esters, ethanol and film-formers are added after cooling, and aerosols are gassed with propellant on a dedicated line.", "packaging": [ "Trigger or pump spray bottle", "Bag-on-valve can", "Aerosol can" ], "fill_notes": "Lotion sprays are filled cold and spray-tested for pattern and dose. Bag-on-valve and aerosol packs need a gassing line with flammable-propellant controls, crimp checks and leak testing.", "pros": [ "Fast coverage of large areas.", "Easy reapplication over the top.", "Suits family and sport use." ], "cons": [ "Hard to apply enough product evenly.", "Alcohol aerosols are flammable dangerous goods.", "Propellants need impurity controls, including for benzene." ], "shelf_life": "An expiry date is required. Main risks are separation, nozzle clogging, filter crystallisation, can corrosion and loss of SPF.", "in_the_lab": { "viscosity_range": "Pump lotion sprays below about 1,000 mPa·s; clear sprays water-thin.", "ph_range": "Lotion sprays about 5.5–7.5; not applicable to anhydrous alcohol sprays.", "preservation": "Required for lotion sprays; high-ethanol and aerosol products are low microbial risk but must still meet TGA limits.", "stability_tests": "As for sunscreen lotions under TGA guidance, plus spray rate and pattern, valve and can compatibility, and corrosion.", "batch_sizes": "Concentrate pilot 50 L; production to 5,000 L. Aerosol gassing is a specialist step.", "regulatory_au": "Primary sunscreens of SPF 4 and above are therapeutic goods: listed on the ARTG (AUST L), limited to permitted filters and claims, made under TGA GMP and tested to AS/NZS 2604:2021. Aerosols are also Class 2 dangerous goods under the ADG Code." }, "sustainability": "Pump and trigger sprays avoid propellants; bag-on-valve packs use compressed air or nitrogen and empty more completely than standard aerosols.", "sources": [ "https://www.tga.gov.au/sites/default/files/2025-08/understanding-regulation-therapeutic-sunscreens.pdf", "https://periodicos.usp.br/bjps/article/view/207308", "https://www.fda.gov/safety/recalls-market-withdrawals-safety-alerts/johnson-johnson-consumer-inc-issues-voluntary-recall-specific-neutrogenar-and-aveenor-aerosol", "https://www.ntc.gov.au/codes-and-guidelines/australian-dangerous-goods-code" ], "shelf_life_months": { "unopened": [ 24, 36 ], "after_opening": [ 12, 12 ] }, "ph": { "min": 5.5, "max": 7.5 }, "viscosity_cp": { "min": 5, "max": 1000 }, "fill": { "method": "cold", "temperature_c": 25, "note": "Lotion sprays are spray-tested for pattern and dose, and aerosol and bag-on-valve packs are gassed on a TGA-licensed line." }, "process_steps": [ { "step": "Make the concentrate", "detail": "Thin lotion or clear ethanol-based solution." }, { "step": "Dissolve filters and film-formers", "detail": "Solid filters in warmed esters, then ethanol and film-formers after cooling." }, { "step": "Fill the container", "detail": "Pump bottle, bag-on-valve or aerosol can." }, { "step": "Gas aerosols", "detail": "Add propellant on a dedicated line." }, { "step": "Test the spray", "detail": "Pattern, dose, crimp and leak checks." } ], "packaging_icons": [ "spray-bottle", "aerosol" ] }, { "slug": "sun-stick", "name": "Sun stick", "group": "sun", "system": "Anhydrous", "one_liner": "A solid, twist-up sunscreen for faces, ears and noses, made without water and poured hot.", "plain_explainer": "A sun stick holds UV filters in a waxy, waterless base set in a twist-up tube. It applies easily to small areas such as the face, ears and nose without messy hands, and tends to stay put during sport. Like other primary sunscreens, it is a therapeutic good in Australia.", "feel": "Firm glide leaving a dense, even layer; mineral sticks show as a visible film.", "typical_uses": [ "Face and nose stick", "Kids' sun stick", "Zinc sport stick", "Tinted mineral stick" ], "suits": [ "Children and adults", "Hot, sunny climates" ], "typical_actives": [ "Zinc oxide", "Titanium dioxide", "Bemotrizinol", "Octocrylene" ], "key_components": [ { "role": "UV filter", "examples": "Zinc oxide, titanium dioxide, organic filters" }, { "role": "Wax", "examples": "Candelilla wax, beeswax, ozokerite, hydrogenated castor oil" }, { "role": "Emollient or dispersant", "examples": "C12-15 alkyl benzoate, caprylic/capric triglyceride, polyhydroxystearic acid" }, { "role": "Butter or oil", "examples": "Shea butter, coconut oil, jojoba oil" } ], "how_it_is_made": "Waxes, butters and oils are melted at about 80–90 °C, and organic filters are dissolved in the melt. Mineral filters are dispersed under high shear and kept moving so they do not settle. The melt is held hot with stirring, poured into stick tubes and cooled in a controlled way.", "packaging": [ "Twist-up stick", "Paper push-up tube", "Tin (zinc pastes)" ], "fill_notes": "Hot filled under TGA GMP from a heated, stirred holding tank so minerals stay evenly suspended from the first stick to the last. Cooled in a tunnel, then checked for hardness, top finish and weight.", "pros": [ "Mess-free, targeted application.", "Waterless, low microbial risk.", "Tends to stay put during sport." ], "cons": [ "Hard to apply enough over large areas.", "Can soften in hot cars and summer heat.", "Settling minerals can make SPF uneven." ], "shelf_life": "An expiry date is required. Main risks are bloom, sweating, cracking, filter crystallisation and SPF drift.", "in_the_lab": { "viscosity_range": "Solid; specify hardness and melting point, often above 55–60 °C for Australian summers.", "ph_range": "Not applicable; there is no water phase.", "preservation": "Usually not needed if anhydrous, but the product must still meet TGA microbial limits.", "stability_tests": "The TGA sunscreen stability program, plus heat cycling, break and bend tests, bloom and filter uniformity across the batch.", "batch_sizes": "Pilot 50 L; production to 5,000 L, with heated, stirred holding for hot fill.", "regulatory_au": "Primary sunscreens of SPF 4 and above are therapeutic goods: listed on the ARTG (AUST L), limited to permitted filters and claims, made under TGA GMP and tested to AS/NZS 2604:2021. SPF sticks sold only for the lips can remain cosmetics if they meet the excluded-goods conditions." }, "sustainability": "Paper push-up tubes and tins replace plastic; the format is waterless and compact.", "sources": [ "https://www.tga.gov.au/products/medicines/therapeutic-sunscreens/overview/sunscreen-regulation-australia", "https://www.tga.gov.au/sites/default/files/2025-08/understanding-regulation-therapeutic-sunscreens.pdf", "https://www.legislation.gov.au/F2018L01350/latest/text", "https://periodicos.usp.br/bjps/article/view/207308" ], "shelf_life_months": { "unopened": [ 24, 36 ], "after_opening": [ 12, 12 ] }, "ph": null, "viscosity_cp": null, "fill": { "method": "hot", "temperature_c": 80, "note": "Poured under TGA GMP from a stirred holding tank so minerals stay suspended from the first stick to the last." }, "process_steps": [ { "step": "Melt the base", "detail": "Waxes, butters and oils at 80–90 °C." }, { "step": "Dissolve organic filters", "detail": "Into the hot melt." }, { "step": "Disperse mineral filters", "detail": "High shear, then constant stirring to stop settling." }, { "step": "Pour hot", "detail": "Into stick tubes from a stirred tank." }, { "step": "Cool under control", "detail": "Then check hardness, finish and weight." } ], "packaging_icons": [ "stick", "tin" ] }, { "slug": "after-sun-gel", "name": "After-sun gel", "group": "sun", "system": "Aqueous gel", "one_liner": "A cooling water-based gel, often with aloe, used after sun exposure to soothe and moisturise.", "plain_explainer": "An after-sun gel is a light, clear or translucent gel, often made with aloe, that cools and hydrates skin after a day outdoors. It spreads easily over large areas and dries without stickiness.", "feel": "Cool and slippery, drying quickly to a fresh, non-sticky finish.", "typical_uses": [ "After-sun gel", "Aloe body gel", "Cooling spray gel", "Post-shave or post-wax gel" ], "suits": [ "Sun-exposed skin", "Hot, sunny climates" ], "typical_actives": [ "Aloe vera", "Panthenol", "Allantoin", "Menthyl lactate", "Cucumber extract" ], "key_components": [ { "role": "Gelling agent", "examples": "Carbomer, xanthan gum, hydroxyethylcellulose, sclerotium gum" }, { "role": "Base", "examples": "Aloe barbadensis leaf juice, purified water" }, { "role": "Humectant", "examples": "Glycerin, propanediol" }, { "role": "Cooling agent", "examples": "Menthol, menthyl lactate" }, { "role": "Preservative", "examples": "Sodium benzoate and potassium sorbate (at pH 5.5 or below), or phenoxyethanol" } ], "how_it_is_made": "A cold process: the gelling agent is hydrated in water or aloe juice, then humectants, soothing ingredients and preservative are added. Cooling agents and fragrance are pre-mixed with a solubiliser, and carbomer gels are neutralised at the end. Mixing under vacuum keeps bubbles out.", "packaging": [ "Tube", "Pump bottle", "Large flip-top bottle", "Spray-gel bottle" ], "fill_notes": "Filled cold; large packs suit piston or liquid fillers. Avoid drawing air into clear gels.", "pros": [ "Clear, cooling sensory benefit.", "Large packs suit body use.", "Dries quickly without stickiness." ], "cons": [ "Aloe juice can carry microbes and vary by batch.", "Carbomer gels thin with UV, salts and botanicals.", "Little emollience for very dry skin." ], "shelf_life": "Main risks are viscosity loss, colour change of aloe and microbial growth.", "in_the_lab": { "viscosity_range": "About 3,000–30,000 mPa·s.", "ph_range": "Usually 5–7; carbomer gels need near-neutral pH for full viscosity.", "preservation": "Required, as aloe and botanicals raise the challenge. Challenge test to ISO 11930.", "stability_tests": "Storage at 40–45 °C, light exposure, colour and viscosity tracking, and freeze–thaw.", "batch_sizes": "Pilot 50 L; production to 5,000 L.", "regulatory_au": "Cosmetic for soothing and moisturising claims; claims about sunburn or burns make it a therapeutic good. With SPF 4–15, a pack of 300 mL or less and no water-resistance claim, it can stay cosmetic but must meet AS/NZS 2604:2021." }, "sustainability": "Mostly water, so large refillable packs and recyclable bottles help.", "sources": [ "https://www.lubrizol.com/-/media/Lubrizol/Health/TDS/TDS-237_Neutralizing_Carbopol_Pemulen_in_Aqueous_Hydroalcoholic_Systems--PH.pdf", "https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC2763764/", "https://www.legislation.gov.au/F2018L01350/latest/text", "https://www.tga.gov.au/resources/guidance/determining-if-your-product-cosmetic-or-therapeutic-good" ], "shelf_life_months": { "unopened": [ 24, 36 ], "after_opening": [ 6, 12 ] }, "ph": { "min": 5.0, "max": 7.0 }, "viscosity_cp": { "min": 3000, "max": 30000 }, "fill": { "method": "cold", "temperature_c": 25, "note": "Large packs suit piston or liquid fillers, and transfer avoids drawing air into clear gels." }, "process_steps": [ { "step": "Hydrate the gelling agent", "detail": "In water or aloe juice." }, { "step": "Add soothing ingredients", "detail": "Humectants, actives and preservative." }, { "step": "Solubilise cooling agents", "detail": "Pre-mix menthol and fragrance with solubiliser." }, { "step": "Neutralise and de-aerate", "detail": "Build viscosity, then remove air under vacuum." } ], "packaging_icons": [ "tube", "pump-bottle", "squeeze-bottle", "spray-bottle" ] }, { "slug": "body-wash", "name": "Body wash", "group": "body", "system": "Surfactant system", "one_liner": "A liquid shower cleanser in gel, cream or oil form, used with hands or a pouf.", "plain_explainer": "Body wash is a thickened surfactant system in water, similar to shampoo but tuned for skin. It cleans away sweat and sunscreen and can leave a light moisturising feel. Most versions are built around a fragrance.", "feel": "Generous lather that rinses clean, leaving skin soft rather than tight.", "typical_uses": [ "Shower gel", "Creamy body wash", "Shower oil", "Exfoliating body wash" ], "suits": [ "All skin types", "Dry skin (creamy washes)" ], "typical_actives": [ "Glycerin", "Lactic acid", "Colloidal oatmeal", "Niacinamide" ], "key_components": [ { "role": "Primary surfactant", "examples": "Sodium laureth sulfate, sodium cocoyl glycinate, sodium lauroyl methyl isethionate, sodium cocoyl glutamate" }, { "role": "Co-surfactant", "examples": "Cocamidopropyl betaine, coco-glucoside" }, { "role": "Thickener", "examples": "Sodium chloride, acrylates copolymer, xanthan gum" }, { "role": "Moisturising or opacifying agent", "examples": "Glycerin, plant oils, glycol distearate" }, { "role": "Preservative and pH adjuster", "examples": "Sodium benzoate, citric acid" } ], "how_it_is_made": "Surfactants are blended into water with low-shear mixing to keep foam down, with gentle heat for pearlising agents or solid surfactants. Moisturising ingredients, fragrance and preservative are added and pH is adjusted. Viscosity is built at the end with salt or polymer, and creamy washes may carry an emulsified oil phase.", "packaging": [ "Flip-top bottle", "Pump bottle", "Refill pouch", "Large family bottle" ], "fill_notes": "Filled cold on a liquid or piston filler at controlled speed to limit foam. Suits large formats and refill pouches.", "pros": [ "Cleans away sweat and sunscreen.", "Creamy versions leave a light moisturising feel.", "Suits large packs and refill pouches." ], "cons": [ "Fragrance and salt can shift viscosity.", "Harsh systems can dry skin.", "Mostly water, so heavy to ship." ], "shelf_life": "Main risks are viscosity drift, separation of oils or pearl, fragrance change and microbial growth.", "in_the_lab": { "viscosity_range": "About 3,000–12,000 mPa·s.", "ph_range": "Usually 5.0–6.5 for syndet systems.", "preservation": "Required; a broad-spectrum system validated by challenge test to ISO 11930.", "stability_tests": "Storage at 40–45 °C and 4 °C, freeze–thaw, viscosity and pH tracking, and fragrance compatibility.", "batch_sizes": "Pilot 50 L; production to 5,000 L.", "regulatory_au": "Cosmetic for cleansing claims; antibacterial claims are excluded from TGA regulation only under narrow conditions, so avoid disease-related claims. NSW bans plastic microbeads in rinse-off products." }, "sustainability": "Concentrates, refill pouches and solid body-wash bars reduce plastic and freight.", "sources": [ "https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/29231284/", "https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC3088928/", "https://www.legislation.gov.au/F2018L01350/latest/text", "https://www.epa.nsw.gov.au/your-environment/waste/reducing-your-household-waste/what-are-microbeads" ], "shelf_life_months": { "unopened": [ 24, 36 ], "after_opening": [ 12, 24 ] }, "ph": { "min": 5.0, "max": 6.5 }, "viscosity_cp": { "min": 3000, "max": 12000 }, "fill": { "method": "cold", "temperature_c": 25, "note": "A liquid or piston filler runs at controlled speed to limit foam, and suits large formats and refill pouches." }, "process_steps": [ { "step": "Blend surfactants", "detail": "Into water with low-shear mixing." }, { "step": "Heat if needed", "detail": "For pearlising agents or solid surfactants." }, { "step": "Add moisturisers and fragrance", "detail": "Plus preservative." }, { "step": "Adjust pH", "detail": "Usually with citric acid." }, { "step": "Build viscosity", "detail": "With salt or polymer at the end." } ], "packaging_icons": [ "squeeze-bottle", "pump-bottle", "pouch" ] }, { "slug": "body-scrub", "name": "Body scrub", "group": "body", "system": "Suspension", "one_liner": "An exfoliating body product of sugar, salt or natural particles held in an oil or cream base.", "plain_explainer": "A body scrub mixes exfoliating particles into an oil, butter or cleansing-cream base. Massaged over damp skin, the particles buff away dry flakes and the base leaves skin feeling smooth and moisturised. It is often used before self-tanning or as a weekly body ritual.", "feel": "Grainy and massaging, rinsing to smooth skin with a light oily or soft finish.", "typical_uses": [ "Sugar body scrub", "Salt scrub", "Coffee scrub", "Foaming exfoliating wash" ], "suits": [ "Dry skin", "Rough skin" ], "typical_actives": [ "Lactic acid", "Caffeine", "Vitamin E" ], "key_components": [ { "role": "Exfoliant", "examples": "Sucrose, sodium chloride (sea salt), ground coffee, ground seeds or shells, jojoba esters, unmodified cellulose beads" }, { "role": "Base oil or butter", "examples": "Sunflower, coconut or almond oil; shea butter" }, { "role": "Rinse-off emulsifier", "examples": "Polyglyceryl esters, polysorbate 80, PEG-20 glyceryl triisostearate" }, { "role": "Structurant", "examples": "Waxes or silica for oil scrubs; a thickened surfactant base for foaming scrubs" } ], "how_it_is_made": "Oils, butters and any rinse-off emulsifier are warmed and blended, then cooled to a soft set. Exfoliating particles are folded in with low-shear mixing so they stay whole and evenly spread. Water-based scrubs use a thickened surfactant or emulsion base to keep particles suspended.", "packaging": [ "Jar", "Tube", "Pouch", "Glass jar or aluminium tin" ], "fill_notes": "Filled with a piston filler that can handle particles; abrasive particles wear seals and valves. Jars are filled to weight.", "pros": [ "Buffs and moisturises in one step.", "Waterless sugar or salt scrubs are low microbial risk.", "Many natural exfoliants to choose from." ], "cons": [ "Oil separates from particles over time.", "Abrasive particles wear filling equipment.", "Water in the jar can let microbes grow." ], "shelf_life": "Oil scrubs are limited by oxidation. Main risks are oil separation, hardening and contamination from wet hands.", "in_the_lab": { "viscosity_range": "Thick paste; specify by penetration and oil separation rather than a single viscosity.", "ph_range": "Not applicable for anhydrous scrubs; water-based scrubs usually 5.0–6.5.", "preservation": "Anhydrous scrubs are often unpreserved with an ISO 29621 risk assessment, though many include a preservative for wet-hand use. Water-based scrubs require one.", "stability_tests": "Oil separation at 40–45 °C, heat cycling, particle integrity and oxidation checks.", "batch_sizes": "Pilot 50 L; production to 5,000 L, with low-shear mixing to protect particles.", "regulatory_au": "Cosmetic; NSW has banned plastic microbeads in rinse-off personal care products since 1 November 2022, including biodegradable and bioplastic beads such as PLA or cellulose acetate, so use non-plastic exfoliants. Label ingredients under the Consumer Goods (Cosmetics) Information Standard 2020." }, "sustainability": "Sugar is a biodegradable exfoliant and salt simply dissolves in water; glass jars and aluminium tins suit this format.", "sources": [ "https://www.epa.nsw.gov.au/your-environment/waste/reducing-your-household-waste/what-are-microbeads", "https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC5796020/", "https://www.iso.org/standard/68310.html" ], "shelf_life_months": { "unopened": [ 18, 24 ], "after_opening": [ 6, 12 ] }, "ph": null, "viscosity_cp": null, "fill": { "method": "cold", "temperature_c": 25, "note": "A particle-capable piston filler fills jars to weight, and abrasive particles wear its seals and valves." }, "process_steps": [ { "step": "Warm the base", "detail": "Oils, butters and rinse-off emulsifier." }, { "step": "Cool to soft set", "detail": "So particles stay suspended." }, { "step": "Fold in exfoliant", "detail": "Low-shear mixing keeps particles whole." }, { "step": "Fill to weight", "detail": "With a particle-capable piston filler." } ], "packaging_icons": [ "jar", "tube", "pouch", "tin" ] }, { "slug": "body-butter", "name": "Body butter", "group": "body", "system": "Anhydrous", "one_liner": "A rich, whipped blend of plant butters and oils for intensive moisturising of dry body skin.", "plain_explainer": "A body butter is a dense, waterless blend of butters and oils, often whipped with air for a mousse-like texture. It melts on contact and leaves a lasting, nourishing layer on dry areas. The name is also used for very rich creams; those follow the cream profile.", "feel": "Thick and airy in the jar, melting to a rich, lasting glide.", "typical_uses": [ "Whipped body butter", "Intensive dry-skin butter", "Pregnancy belly butter", "Hand and foot butter" ], "suits": [ "Very dry skin", "Winter weather" ], "typical_actives": [ "Shea butter", "Vitamin E", "Bisabolol", "Calendula extract" ], "key_components": [ { "role": "Butter", "examples": "Shea, cocoa, mango or kokum butter" }, { "role": "Liquid oil", "examples": "Sunflower, macadamia, almond or jojoba oil" }, { "role": "Texture aid", "examples": "Tapioca or corn starch, silica to reduce greasiness" }, { "role": "Antioxidant", "examples": "Tocopherol, rosemary leaf extract" } ], "how_it_is_made": "Butters and oils are melted together at about 70–80 °C and held briefly to erase existing crystals, then cooled quickly to a soft set. The semi-solid mass is whipped in a planetary or aerating mixer to fold in air. It is filled soon after whipping, before it firms.", "packaging": [ "Wide-mouth jar", "Tin", "Tube (softer butters)" ], "fill_notes": "Whipped butters are filled cool with a piston or depositing filler that does not knock out the air; fill level and weight are rechecked after settling. Non-whipped butters can be hot filled.", "pros": [ "Waterless, low microbial risk.", "Rich texture for very dry skin.", "Short ingredient lists suit natural claims." ], "cons": [ "Melts or loses its whip in hot transport.", "Shea and cocoa butters can turn grainy.", "Feels heavy and slow to absorb." ], "shelf_life": "Limited by oxidation. Main risks are graininess, collapse of the whip, oil weeping and rancid odour.", "in_the_lab": { "viscosity_range": "Semi-solid; specify hardness, density (air content from whipping) and melting point.", "ph_range": "Not applicable; there is no water phase.", "preservation": "Usually not needed if anhydrous; support with an ISO 29621 risk assessment. Antioxidant recommended.", "stability_tests": "Heat cycling between 5 °C and 40 °C, graininess, oil weeping, density over time and oxidation checks.", "batch_sizes": "Pilot 50 L; production to 5,000 L, though whipping capacity may set the practical batch size.", "regulatory_au": "Cosmetic for moisturising claims; stretch-mark claims need care and evidence. Label ingredients under the Consumer Goods (Cosmetics) Information Standard 2020." }, "sustainability": "Waterless and concentrated; glass jars and tins suit this format.", "sources": [ "https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC5796020/", "https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC5849435/", "https://www.iso.org/standard/68310.html" ], "shelf_life_months": { "unopened": [ 18, 24 ], "after_opening": [ 6, 12 ] }, "ph": null, "viscosity_cp": null, "fill": { "method": "cold", "temperature_c": 20, "note": "Deposited soon after whipping with a filler that keeps the air in, then rechecked for level and weight after settling." }, "process_steps": [ { "step": "Melt butters and oils", "detail": "At about 70–80 °C to erase crystals." }, { "step": "Cool quickly", "detail": "To a soft set." }, { "step": "Whip in air", "detail": "In a planetary or aerating mixer." }, { "step": "Fill promptly", "detail": "Before the whipped butter firms." } ], "packaging_icons": [ "jar", "tin", "tube" ] }, { "slug": "body-bath-oil", "name": "Body and bath oil", "group": "body", "system": "Anhydrous", "one_liner": "A light oil blend for body massage or the bath, sometimes made to disperse into bathwater.", "plain_explainer": "Body oils are waterless blends of plant oils and light esters applied to damp skin after bathing. Bath oils are similar but either float on the water or include an emulsifier so the bath turns milky. Both suit relaxation and massage.", "feel": "Silky and slippery, leaving a soft sheen; dispersing types feel lighter in the bath.", "typical_uses": [ "Body oil", "Dispersing bath oil", "Massage oil", "Pregnancy body oil" ], "suits": [ "Dry skin", "Skin during pregnancy" ], "typical_actives": [ "Vitamin E", "Bisabolol", "Rosehip oil" ], "key_components": [ { "role": "Carrier oil", "examples": "Sunflower, almond, macadamia, jojoba or rice bran oil" }, { "role": "Light ester", "examples": "Caprylic/capric triglyceride, coco-caprylate, isopropyl myristate" }, { "role": "Dispersing emulsifier (bath oils)", "examples": "Polysorbate 85, PEG-40 sorbitan peroleate, laureth-4, polyglyceryl esters" }, { "role": "Antioxidant and fragrance", "examples": "Tocopherol; essential oils within IFRA limits" } ], "how_it_is_made": "Oils and esters are blended at room temperature with any emulsifier, antioxidant and fragrance. The blend is filtered for clarity. No heating or emulsifying step is needed.", "packaging": [ "Glass or PET bottle", "Pump bottle", "Spray-pump bottle" ], "fill_notes": "Filled cold on a liquid filler; check that pumps and seals tolerate oils and essential oils.", "pros": [ "Waterless, so low microbial risk.", "Strong sensory and relaxation appeal.", "Doubles as a massage oil." ], "cons": [ "Oils oxidise over time.", "Bath oils make baths and shower floors slippery.", "Can stain fabrics." ], "shelf_life": "Limited by oxidation. Main risks are rancid odour, haze and colour change.", "in_the_lab": { "viscosity_range": "Low, about 20–100 mPa·s.", "ph_range": "Not applicable; there is no water phase.", "preservation": "Usually not needed if anhydrous; support with an ISO 29621 risk assessment. Antioxidant recommended.", "stability_tests": "Oxidation checks, storage at 40–45 °C, clarity at low temperature, and a dispersion test in water for bath oils.", "batch_sizes": "Pilot 50 L; production to 5,000 L.", "regulatory_au": "Cosmetic, and a slip warning is advisable on bath oils. Claims to treat or relieve a skin disease or condition, such as eczema or psoriasis, make it a therapeutic good." }, "sustainability": "Waterless and concentrated; glass bottles and locally grown oils suit this format.", "sources": [ "https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC5796020/", "https://doi.org/10.1136/bmj.k1332", "https://www.iso.org/standard/68310.html" ], "shelf_life_months": { "unopened": [ 12, 24 ], "after_opening": [ 6, 12 ] }, "ph": null, "viscosity_cp": { "min": 20, "max": 100 }, "fill": { "method": "cold", "temperature_c": 25, "note": "Uses a liquid filler, with pumps and seals checked for tolerance to oils and essential oils." }, "process_steps": [ { "step": "Blend oils and esters", "detail": "At room temperature." }, { "step": "Add emulsifier (bath oils)", "detail": "So the oil disperses in water." }, { "step": "Add antioxidant and fragrance", "detail": "Tocopherol and essential oils within IFRA limits." }, { "step": "Filter and fill", "detail": "Polish filter for clarity." } ], "packaging_icons": [ "bottle", "pump-bottle", "spray-bottle" ] }, { "slug": "hand-cream", "name": "Hand cream", "group": "body", "system": "Oil-in-water emulsion", "one_liner": "A cream, usually in a tube, made to moisturise hands that are washed often.", "plain_explainer": "Hand cream is an emulsion tuned to absorb quickly and leave hands dry to the touch, so people can get straight back to work or their phone. Humectants and a light barrier help hands that are washed or sanitised often. Small tubes suit bags, travel and gifting.", "feel": "Rich at first, absorbing quickly to a soft, non-greasy finish.", "typical_uses": [ "Everyday hand cream", "Intensive barrier hand cream", "Hand and nail cream", "Fragrance-led hand cream" ], "suits": [ "Dry skin", "Frequently washed hands" ], "typical_actives": [ "Glycerin", "Urea", "Niacinamide", "Shea butter" ], "key_components": [ { "role": "Emulsifier", "examples": "Glyceryl stearate, cetearyl alcohol, cetearyl glucoside" }, { "role": "Humectant", "examples": "Glycerin, urea, sodium PCA" }, { "role": "Barrier agent or emollient", "examples": "Dimethicone, shea butter, esters" }, { "role": "Sensory powder", "examples": "Starch or silica for a dry-touch finish" }, { "role": "Preservative", "examples": "Phenoxyethanol or organic acid systems" } ], "how_it_is_made": "Made like a cream in a vacuum emulsifying vessel: heated phases are homogenised and then cooled. Dimethicone, dry-touch powders, fragrance and preservative are added during cooling. Texture is checked for quick absorption and no greasy residue.", "packaging": [ "Tube", "Pump bottle", "Small tin or jar", "Travel tube" ], "fill_notes": "Filled cold; tubes are filled from the open end, then crimped (aluminium) or heat-sealed (plastic). Consistent fill weight across small tube sizes matters.", "pros": [ "Clear benefit with frequent use.", "Small tubes travel easily.", "Built on familiar cream processes." ], "cons": [ "Quick absorption and barrier feel pull against each other.", "Aluminium tubes need lacquer compatibility checks.", "Fragrance-led versions need allergen care." ], "shelf_life": "Main risks are separation, viscosity change and fragrance change.", "in_the_lab": { "viscosity_range": "About 20,000–60,000 mPa·s.", "ph_range": "Usually 5.0–6.5; urea creams may need buffering.", "preservation": "Required; a broad-spectrum system validated by challenge test to ISO 11930.", "stability_tests": "Storage at 40–45 °C, freeze–thaw, tube compatibility (aluminium tubes need lacquer checks) and fragrance stability.", "batch_sizes": "Pilot 50 L; production to 5,000 L.", "regulatory_au": "Cosmetic for moisturising claims; claims about skin conditions make it a therapeutic good. Antibacterial versions are excluded only if they contain no Schedule 2, 3, 4 or 8 substance and are presented as active against bacteria only, with no disease, named-pathogen or medical-use claims. Label ingredients under the Consumer Goods (Cosmetics) Information Standard 2020." }, "sustainability": "Aluminium and mono-material plastic tubes are easier to recycle than mixed laminates; refillable tins suit thicker creams.", "sources": [ "https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC5849435/", "https://www.iso.org/standard/75058.html", "https://www.legislation.gov.au/F2018L01350/latest/text", "https://www.legislation.gov.au/F2020L01469/latest/text" ], "shelf_life_months": { "unopened": [ 24, 36 ], "after_opening": [ 12, 18 ] }, "ph": { "min": 5.0, "max": 6.5 }, "viscosity_cp": { "min": 20000, "max": 60000 }, "fill": { "method": "cold", "temperature_c": 25, "note": "Tubes are filled from the open end, then crimped if aluminium or heat-sealed if plastic, with fill weight held steady across sizes." }, "process_steps": [ { "step": "Heat both phases", "detail": "Water and oil phases to about 70–80 °C." }, { "step": "Emulsify under vacuum", "detail": "Homogenise the oil phase into water." }, { "step": "Cool with sweep mixing", "detail": "Slow mixing down to about 40 °C." }, { "step": "Add finishing ingredients", "detail": "Dimethicone, powders, fragrance and preservative." }, { "step": "Check skin feel", "detail": "Quick absorption with no greasy residue." } ], "packaging_icons": [ "tube", "pump-bottle", "tin", "jar" ] }, { "slug": "deodorant", "name": "Deodorant stick", "group": "body", "system": "Anhydrous", "one_liner": "An underarm stick that controls odour, or sweat for antiperspirants, poured hot into a twist-up or paper tube.", "plain_explainer": "Deodorants reduce underarm odour; antiperspirants also reduce sweat using aluminium salts. Sticks are waterless blends of waxes, oils and powders that glide on. Aluminium-free sticks control odour without acting as antiperspirants. Roll-ons are water-based gels or emulsions made as a separate build.", "feel": "Smooth glide, drying to a soft, powdery finish.", "typical_uses": [ "Natural deodorant stick", "Antiperspirant stick", "Deodorant cream or paste" ], "suits": [ "Sensitive skin (bicarbonate-free)", "Hot, humid climates" ], "typical_actives": [ "Zinc ricinoleate", "Magnesium hydroxide", "Sodium bicarbonate", "Aluminium chlorohydrate", "Triethyl citrate" ], "key_components": [ { "role": "Odour control", "examples": "Zinc ricinoleate, magnesium hydroxide, sodium bicarbonate, triethyl citrate" }, { "role": "Wax or gellant (sticks)", "examples": "Candelilla wax, stearyl alcohol, hydrogenated castor oil, sodium stearate" }, { "role": "Absorbent powder", "examples": "Tapioca starch, arrowroot, kaolin" }, { "role": "Emollient and fragrance", "examples": "Caprylic/capric triglyceride, coconut oil; fragrance" } ], "how_it_is_made": "Waxes and oils are melted at about 70–85 °C, powders and actives are dispersed with good mixing, and the melt is poured hot into stick barrels. Antiperspirant actives go in as solutions or fine powders, depending on the base.", "packaging": [ "Twist-up stick", "Paper push-up tube", "Jar (cream deodorant)" ], "fill_notes": "Sticks are hot filled from a stirred holding tank to keep powders suspended, then cooled.", "pros": [ "Twist-up or paper push-up tube to suit the brand.", "Waterless sticks are low microbial risk.", "Plastic-free paper tubes suit natural formulas." ], "cons": [ "Sodium bicarbonate can irritate some underarms.", "Sticks soften in heat and powders can settle.", "Hot fill needs a stirred, heated holding tank." ], "shelf_life": "Main risks are hardness change, sweating, powder settling, fragrance loss and roll-on leakage.", "in_the_lab": { "viscosity_range": "Sticks are solid: specify hardness and melting point.", "ph_range": "Not applicable to anhydrous sticks.", "preservation": "Anhydrous sticks are usually unpreserved with an ISO 29621 risk assessment.", "stability_tests": "Heat cycling, stick break and payout, powder settling and fragrance stability.", "batch_sizes": "Pilot 50 L; production to 5,000 L, with heated, stirred holding for hot fill.", "regulatory_au": "Deodorants for skin use are declared not to be therapeutic goods. Antiperspirants that work only through inorganic aluminium, zinc or zirconium salts are excluded from TGA regulation; medicated antiperspirants with other actives are likely therapeutic goods." }, "sustainability": "Paper push-up tubes and refillable cases suit sticks; glass roll-on bottles are often not accepted in kerbside recycling, as the plastic ball and housing are hard to separate.", "sources": [ "https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC10946881/", "https://www.legislation.gov.au/F2018L01350/latest/text", "https://www.iso.org/standard/68310.html" ], "shelf_life_months": { "unopened": [ 24, 36 ], "after_opening": [ 12, 18 ] }, "ph": null, "viscosity_cp": null, "fill": { "method": "hot", "temperature_c": 75, "note": "Sticks are poured from a stirred holding tank to keep powders suspended." }, "process_steps": [ { "step": "Melt waxes and oils", "detail": "At about 70–85 °C for sticks." }, { "step": "Disperse powders and actives", "detail": "Good mixing keeps powders evenly spread." }, { "step": "Add fragrance", "detail": "After slight cooling." }, { "step": "Pour hot into barrels", "detail": "From a stirred tank, then cool." } ], "packaging_icons": [ "stick", "jar" ] }, { "slug": "baby-wash", "name": "Baby wash", "group": "baby", "system": "Surfactant system", "one_liner": "An extra-mild, low-foam wash for a baby's hair and body, designed not to sting the eyes.", "plain_explainer": "Baby wash is a gentle surfactant system for washing an infant's hair and body in one step. It uses very mild surfactants at a skin-friendly pH, little or no fragrance, and is tested for eye and skin tolerance.", "feel": "Soft, light lather that rinses away easily with no tight or slippery residue.", "typical_uses": [ "Baby hair and body wash", "Baby bath foam", "Baby shampoo", "Sensitive-skin family wash" ], "suits": [ "Newborns and young children", "Sensitive skin", "Dry skin" ], "typical_actives": [ "Glycerin", "Colloidal oatmeal", "Calendula extract", "Panthenol" ], "key_components": [ { "role": "Mild surfactant", "examples": "Coco-glucoside, decyl glucoside, sodium cocoyl glutamate, sodium cocoamphoacetate" }, { "role": "Amphoteric or non-ionic softener", "examples": "Cocamidopropyl betaine, polyglyceryl esters" }, { "role": "Thickener", "examples": "Xanthan gum, acrylates copolymer" }, { "role": "Humectant", "examples": "Glycerin" }, { "role": "Preservative", "examples": "Sodium benzoate with potassium sorbate, or another system suited to infant use" } ], "how_it_is_made": "Surfactants are blended into water with low-shear mixing, often cold. Humectants, soothing ingredients and preservative are added, pH is set close to skin, and viscosity is built with a gum or polymer. Each batch is checked for clarity, viscosity, pH and microbial limits.", "packaging": [ "Pump bottle", "Flip-top bottle", "Refill pouch" ], "fill_notes": "Filled cold at controlled speed to limit foam. Pumps help one-handed use at bath time.", "pros": [ "Washes hair and body in one step.", "Low-foam lather rinses away easily.", "Mild systems also suit sensitive adults." ], "cons": [ "Narrow choice of preservatives and fragrance.", "Needs eye and skin tolerance studies.", "Very mild systems can be hard to thicken." ], "shelf_life": "Main risks are viscosity drift, loss of clarity and microbial growth.", "in_the_lab": { "viscosity_range": "About 2,000–8,000 mPa·s.", "ph_range": "Usually 5.0–6.5.", "preservation": "Required; select a system suited to infant use and challenge test to ISO 11930.", "stability_tests": "Storage at 40–45 °C and 4 °C, freeze–thaw, viscosity and pH tracking, and eye-irritation and skin-tolerance studies.", "batch_sizes": "Pilot 50 L; production to 5,000 L.", "regulatory_au": "Cosmetic for cleansing claims; 'tear-free', 'hypoallergenic' and 'dermatologist tested' claims need supporting studies under Australian Consumer Law. Label ingredients under the Consumer Goods (Cosmetics) Information Standard 2020." }, "sustainability": "Refill pouches and large family packs suit this format; readily biodegradable surfactants are available.", "sources": [ "https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC5069619/", "https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1468-3083.2009.03140.x", "https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/29231284/", "https://revistas.usp.br/bjps/article/view/97067" ], "shelf_life_months": { "unopened": [ 24, 36 ], "after_opening": [ 6, 12 ] }, "ph": { "min": 5.0, "max": 6.5 }, "viscosity_cp": { "min": 2000, "max": 8000 }, "fill": { "method": "cold", "temperature_c": 25, "note": "Runs at controlled speed to limit foam, often into pump packs for one-handed use at bath time." }, "process_steps": [ { "step": "Blend mild surfactants", "detail": "Into water with low-shear mixing, often cold." }, { "step": "Add soothing ingredients", "detail": "Humectants, botanicals and an infant-suitable preservative." }, { "step": "Set pH", "detail": "Close to skin pH." }, { "step": "Thicken gently", "detail": "With a gum or polymer." }, { "step": "Check each batch", "detail": "Clarity, viscosity, pH and microbial limits." } ], "packaging_icons": [ "pump-bottle", "squeeze-bottle", "pouch" ] }, { "slug": "nappy-barrier-balm", "name": "Nappy and barrier balm", "group": "baby", "system": "Anhydrous", "one_liner": "A thick, waterless ointment that forms a protective barrier on skin, mainly in the nappy area.", "plain_explainer": "A nappy or barrier balm is an ointment of waxes, oils and often zinc oxide that sits on skin as a water-repellent layer. Applied at each change, it keeps wetness and irritants off the skin. The same system serves adult barrier balms for chafing and dry, exposed skin.", "feel": "Dense and slightly tacky, spreading into an even, water-repellent layer.", "typical_uses": [ "Nappy balm", "Barrier ointment", "Anti-chafe balm", "Nipple balm for mums" ], "suits": [ "Babies in nappies", "Chafe-prone skin", "Dry, exposed skin" ], "typical_actives": [ "Zinc oxide", "Calendula extract", "Panthenol" ], "key_components": [ { "role": "Occlusive base", "examples": "Petrolatum or lanolin, or plant-based alternatives such as castor oil and hydrogenated oils" }, { "role": "Wax", "examples": "Beeswax, candelilla wax, microcrystalline wax" }, { "role": "Barrier powder", "examples": "Zinc oxide, often at 10–40%" }, { "role": "Emollient oil", "examples": "Sunflower, olive or macadamia oil" }, { "role": "Antioxidant", "examples": "Tocopherol" } ], "how_it_is_made": "Waxes and occlusives are melted together at about 70–80 °C. Zinc oxide is wetted in part of the oil and dispersed under high shear to remove grit, then mixed into the melt. The batch is cooled with continuous stirring so the powder stays suspended, then filled warm.", "packaging": [ "Tube", "Jar", "Tin", "Stick (anti-chafe)" ], "fill_notes": "Filled warm from a heated, stirred holding tank so zinc oxide stays evenly suspended. Tube seals must hold thick, oily product.", "pros": [ "Waterless, low microbial risk.", "Established barrier approach.", "One base serves baby and adult products." ], "cons": [ "Regulatory status depends closely on claims.", "Zinc oxide must be well dispersed to avoid grit.", "Heavy, white and can be hard to wash off." ], "shelf_life": "Main risks are powder settling, oil separation, graininess and oxidation.", "in_the_lab": { "viscosity_range": "Semi-solid ointment; specify by penetration and spreadability.", "ph_range": "Not applicable; there is no water phase.", "preservation": "Usually not needed if anhydrous; support with an ISO 29621 risk assessment. Zinc creams made as emulsions need preservation.", "stability_tests": "Heat cycling, zinc oxide settling, oil separation, particle size and oxidation checks.", "batch_sizes": "Pilot 50 L; production to 5,000 L, with heated, stirred holding for hot fill.", "regulatory_au": "A balm claiming only to moisturise and protect skin is a cosmetic, while nappy rash claims make it a therapeutic good. Since 2020, barrier-only nappy rash products are exempt from ARTG entry and GMP but must still meet TGA quality, labelling and advertising rules." }, "sustainability": "Waterless and concentrated; tins and aluminium tubes suit this format, and plant-based occlusives can replace petrolatum.", "sources": [ "https://www.tga.gov.au/news/news-articles/changes-nappy-rash-products", "https://doi.org/10.1111/pde.13495", "https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC5069619/", "https://www.iso.org/standard/68310.html" ], "shelf_life_months": { "unopened": [ 24, 36 ], "after_opening": [ 12, 18 ] }, "ph": null, "viscosity_cp": null, "fill": { "method": "warm", "temperature_c": 55, "note": "Filled from a heated, stirred holding tank so zinc oxide stays suspended, into tubes with seals that hold thick, oily product." }, "process_steps": [ { "step": "Melt the base", "detail": "Waxes and occlusives at about 70–80 °C." }, { "step": "Wet the zinc oxide", "detail": "In part of the oil." }, { "step": "Disperse under high shear", "detail": "Removes grit and breaks up clumps." }, { "step": "Cool while stirring", "detail": "Keeps the powder evenly suspended." }, { "step": "Fill warm", "detail": "From a heated, stirred holding tank." } ], "packaging_icons": [ "tube", "jar", "tin", "stick" ] } ] }