Balm texture

Balm

AnhydrousHot fill

A solid or semi-solid blend of butters, waxes and oils that melts on contact with skin.

Firm in the pot, melting to a rich, cushioning layer that stays put.

Multi-purpose skin balm, Cuticle and elbow balm, Face balm for very dry skin, Solid perfume or travel balm

What it is

A balm contains no water: oils are thickened with waxes and butters so it holds its shape in a tin or jar. It warms and melts as it is applied, leaving a rich, protective layer on dry patches, cuticles and lips. Its small, solid format also suits travel and outdoor kits.

Who it suits

Very dry skinWeathered, exposed skin

Typical actives

What is in it

WaxBeeswax, candelilla wax, rice bran wax, sunflower seed wax
ButterShea, cocoa or mango butter
Liquid oilSunflower, jojoba, macadamia or olive oil
AntioxidantTocopherol, rosemary leaf extract

Benefits and challenges

Benefits

  • No water, so low microbial risk.
  • Concentrated, so small packs last.
  • Suits plastic-free packs such as tins and paper tubes.

Challenges

  • Can soften or melt in hot transport and storage.
  • Butters can turn grainy if cooling is uncontrolled.
  • Heavy feel limits daytime face use.

Shelf life

Unopened
After opening

Limited by oil oxidation. Main risks are graininess, oil sweating, surface bloom and rancid odour.

Packaging

Tin
Jar
Stick
In the lab

How it is made

  1. 01Melt waxes and buttersWith the oils at about 70–85 °C.
  2. 02Mix until uniformStir until fully melted and even.
  3. 03Add oil-soluble activesActives and fragrance go in after slight cooling.
  4. 04Pour hotFill into tins, jars or sticks.
  5. 05Cool under controlFast, even cooling limits grainy butters.

hot fill · 70 °CPoured from a heated, stirred holding tank and cooled in a tunnel, with surface finish and shrinkage checked after setting.

Specifications

Batch sizes

50 L pilot
1,000 L
5,000 L production

Lab notes

Preservation
Usually not needed if truly anhydrous; support with an ISO 29621 risk assessment. Antioxidant recommended.
Stability testing
Cycling between 5 °C and 40–45 °C for graininess and sweating, melting point, oxidation checks and transport heat simulation for Australian summers.
Regulatory, Australia
Cosmetic for moisturising and protecting claims; claims about wounds or skin conditions make it a therapeutic good. Label ingredients under the Consumer Goods (Cosmetics) Information Standard 2020.

Sources