Shea butter

Lipid2–10%

A rich, plant-based butter that softens and cushions dry skin and helps hold in moisture.

What it is

Shea butter is pressed from the nuts of the shea tree, which grows across West Africa's savanna belt. It melts at skin temperature, leaving a soft, protective layer that reduces water loss. It suits body butters, hand creams, lip balms and baby care, and shoppers know the name well.

Good for

Dry skinDry handsDry hairFrizzBaby skin

How it works

Shea is mostly a blend of solid and liquid fats, chiefly stearic and oleic acids, with a small fraction of plant compounds such as triterpenes. Its film fills gaps between rough surface cells, so skin feels smoother. Unrefined grades keep more of these minor compounds and a nutty scent.

Ratings

Evidence

3/5

Well established as an emollient, but other claims are less tested.

Gentleness

5/5

Very well tolerated, with a 2024 safety review behind it.

Formulation difficulty

2/5

Easy in emulsions, but water-free balms can turn grainy.

Cost

2/5

Moderate commodity cost, with certified grades costing more.

Popularity

5/5

Used in thousands of products, with 5,447 US uses in 2017.

Pairs and cautions

Pairs well with

In a routine. Pairing in one formula depends on matching pH windows.

Take care with

None noted.

Formulations it suits

Body butter Cream Hand cream Lip balm Nappy and barrier balm Conditioner and hair maskBar soapStyling cream

Packaging

Regional considerations

Australia	No scheduling or concentration limits, and none in the EU or ASEAN ingredient annexes either, so shea itself needs no market-specific reformulation.
Climate	Heat in transit or storage partly melts shea, and slow re-setting grows gritty crystals (bloom). Cool batches quickly, choose a low-bloom grade and heat-cycle test before shipping to hot markets.

In the lab

Specifications

Typical use level

2–10%0525%

Solubility

Oil-soluble

Sensitive to

HeatOxygen

Lotions use 2–5%, rich creams and body butters 10–25%, and water-free balms and sticks up to 100%.

INCI	Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter
Also known as	Shea, Karité
Origin	plant-derived

Lab notes

Solubility and phase

Oil phase, heated fully to about 75–80 °C. It melts at about 32–45 °C.

Stability

Cool quickly to limit graininess, especially in water-free balms, where slow cooling and strongly solubilising esters such as C12–15 alkyl benzoate both speed it up. Add tocopherol to unrefined grades, which can oxidise.

Regulatory, Australia

Cosmetic ingredient in Australia, with no restriction. CIR (2024) assessed 13 shea-derived ingredients as safe in current use when formulated to be non-sensitising.

Claims to take care with

Cosmetic claims include 'nourishes', 'softens' and 'helps lock in moisture'. Fair-trade or 'supports women's co-operatives' claims need a traceable supply chain and evidence, such as fair-trade certification or a supplier's documented sourcing programme; Global Shea Alliance membership alone is not a certification.