Panthenol

Vitamin1–5%

A soothing provitamin that helps skin hold moisture and feel comfortable, in almost any product type.

What it is

Panthenol is the provitamin form of vitamin B5 and a long-established moisturising ingredient. It draws in moisture and helps skin feel softer, smoother and more comfortable. It is gentle enough for sensitive and baby skin and appears across creams, serums and cleansers.

Good for

Dry skinDehydrated skinSensitive skinBaby skinDry hair

How it works

Panthenol is a humectant that attracts water into the upper layers of the skin. Once absorbed it is converted to pantothenic acid (vitamin B5), which is thought to help skin make its own moisture-holding lipids.

Ratings

Evidence

4/5

Decades of use and trials show better hydration and barrier function at 1–5%.

Gentleness

5/5

Very well tolerated, though rare allergy has been reported.

Formulation difficulty

1/5

Water-soluble and easy to add at about pH 4–7.

Cost

1/5

Inexpensive commodity raw material.

Popularity

4/5

Found in many soothing launches, including the 'B5' cream trend.

Pairs and cautions

Pairs well with

In a routine. Pairing in one formula depends on matching pH windows.

Take care with

Strongly acidic or alkaline basesIt hydrolyses

Formulations it suits

Cream Serum Lotion Gel Gel and foaming cleanser Balm Toner, essence and face mist Styling cream

Packaging

Regional considerations

Australia	Panthenol (D and DL forms) is AIIC-listed and not scheduled in the Poisons Standard, so Australia sets no strength limit.
China	'Repair' and 'nourishing' claims, common for panthenol products, need a human efficacy test before the product is filed; hair-only claims may instead be tested on hair tresses.

In the lab

Specifications

Typical use level

1–5%0525%

pH window

pH 4–72 acid7 neutral10 alkaline

Solubility

Water-solubleAlcohol-soluble

Sensitive to

HeatLow pHHigh pH

1–5% in skincare, with everyday moisturisers at 1–2%; hair products use 0.1–0.5% in leave-ons and up to 5% in shampoos and rinse-off conditioners.

INCI	Panthenol
Also known as	Provitamin B5, Dexpanthenol, D-panthenol
Origin	synthetic

Lab notes

Solubility and phase

Water phase. It also dissolves in ethanol and glycols.

Stability

Avoid prolonged heating above about 70 °C, which racemises it. Warm viscous D-panthenol gently to pour, or use easier-to-handle DL-panthenol powder.

Regulatory, Australia

Panthenol (D and DL forms) is on the AIIC. It is not scheduled and has no EU restriction.

Claims to take care with

'Soothes', 'helps skin retain moisture' and 'supports the barrier' are cosmetic. Wound-healing, burn or nappy-rash treatment claims are therapeutic.