Centella asiatica

Botanical0.1–5%

A soothing plant extract, known as cica, that helps stressed or easily reddened skin feel calmer.

What it is

Centella asiatica is a leafy plant with a long history in Asian traditional practice, and the hero of the 'cica' trend from Korean skincare. Its extracts and purified compounds, such as madecassoside, help skin feel calmer, more comfortable and well moisturised. It suits sensitive, easily reddened and blemish-prone skin.

Good for

Sensitive skinRednessBlemish-prone skinSun-exposed skin

How it works

Centella contains triterpenes, including madecassoside, asiaticoside and their acids, that supported collagen and calmed stress signals in skin cells in laboratory studies. Purified triterpenes behave more consistently than whole-plant extracts.

Ratings

Evidence

3/5

Strong lab data, but cosmetic trials often combine other actives.

Gentleness

5/5

Very well tolerated, and contact allergy is rare.

Formulation difficulty

2/5

Extracts are easy water- or glycol-phase additions.

Cost

2/5

Extracts are inexpensive, but purified madecassoside costs more.

Popularity

4/5

'Cica' remains strong in search and in K-beauty-led launches.

Pairs and cautions

Pairs well with

In a routine. Pairing in one formula depends on matching pH windows.

Take care with

None noted.

Formulations it suits

Cream Gel-cream Serum Toner, essence and face mist Sheet mask Balm

Packaging

Regional considerations

Australia	The extract is AIIC-listed (as Hydrocotyle asiatica extract) and unscheduled, but madecassoside and asiaticoside were not on the June 2026 public inventory, so confirm categorisation.
China	Centella extract, madecassoside and asiaticoside are IECIC-listed, but 'repair' claims need a human efficacy test and 'for sensitive skin' claims a human or consumer test.

In the lab

Specifications

Typical use level

0.1–5%0525%

pH window

pH 4.5–72 acid7 neutral10 alkaline

Solubility

Water-solubleAlcohol-soluble

Sensitive to

Light

Extracts at 0.1–5% and madecassoside at 0.1–1%; extract strength varies by supplier, so set the level from the data sheet.

INCI	Centella Asiatica Extract; Madecassoside; Asiaticoside
Also known as	Cica, Gotu kola, Tiger grass
Origin	plant-derived

Lab notes

Solubility and phase

Water phase for water or glycol extracts and madecassoside. Asiaticoside and asiatic or madecassic acids need glycols or ethanol to dissolve.

Stability

Run colour and odour checks, especially in clear gels, as botanical extracts can darken or shift in odour. Add purified actives in cool-down.

Regulatory, Australia

Centella asiatica extract, listed as Hydrocotyle asiatica extract, is on the AIIC, but madecassoside and asiaticoside were not on the public June 2026 download, so confirm their categorisation. It is not scheduled and has no EU restriction.

Claims to take care with

'Soothes' and 'helps the appearance of redness' are cosmetic, while 'heals wounds', 'treats eczema' or 'anti-inflammatory' wording is therapeutic. Most cosmetic centella is grown in Madagascar and Asia, so provenance claims need traceability.