Ceramides

Lipid0.1–5%

Skin-identical lipids that help dry or sensitive skin feel softer, smoother and more comfortable.

What it is

Ceramides are fats found naturally in the skin's outermost layer, where they help keep it soft and supple. Adding them back, ideally with cholesterol and fatty acids, helps skin hold moisture and feel less tight. They suit dry, sensitive and mature skin and pair with almost anything.

Good for

Dry skinDehydrated skinSensitive skinMature skin

How it works

In the skin's outer layer, ceramides, cholesterol and free fatty acids stack into layers that slow water loss. Dry or older skin often has fewer ceramides. Topical ceramides, especially in a balanced lipid mix, are thought to help top up these layers so skin feels smoother and better hydrated.

Ratings

Evidence

4/5

Good clinical support for ceramide creams as a whole.

Gentleness

5/5

Very well tolerated and suits sensitive and baby ranges.

Formulation difficulty

4/5

High melting point and prone to crystallising if not handled well.

Cost

3/5

Costly per kilo but used at low levels, so unit cost is moderate.

Popularity

4/5

Core of the barrier-care trend and strong in new launches.

Pairs and cautions

Pairs well with

In a routine. Pairing in one formula depends on matching pH windows.

Cholesterol
Fatty acids
Niacinamide
Panthenol
Hyaluronic acid

Take care with

Token doses well below the supplier's recommended levelToo little to help

Formulations it suits

Cream Lotion Serum Balm Gel and foaming cleanser

Packaging

Regional considerations

Australia	Ceramide NP is AIIC-listed as assessed for cosmetics, but ceramide AP and EOP were not on the June 2026 public inventory, so check each ceramide in a supplier complex.
China	Ceramides NP, AP, EOP, NS and AS are all on the IECIC inventory, but 'repair' claims for barrier products need a human efficacy test before filing.

In the lab

Specifications

Typical use level

0.1–5%0525%

pH window

pH 5–72 acid7 neutral10 alkaline

Solubility

Oil-solubleWater-dispersible

Pure ceramides at 0.1–1%, or supplier complexes at 1–5%; dry-skin moisturisers use about 3–5% of a complex.

INCI	Ceramide NP; Ceramide AP; Ceramide EOP
Also known as	Skin-identical lipids, Ceramide 3 (old INCI name for ceramide NP), Phytosphingosine (precursor)
Origin	biotech/fermentation

Lab notes

Solubility and phase

Hot oil phase at about 80–90 °C, dissolved with fatty acids, cholesterol and polar esters, as it is poorly oil-soluble. Supplier pre-dispersions go into the water phase instead.

Stability

Cool with controlled stirring, since fast, uncontrolled cooling makes it recrystallise and turn gritty. Check under the microscope through stability testing.

Regulatory, Australia

Ceramide NP (CAS 34354-88-6) is on the AIIC, but check other ceramides and supplier complexes component by component. It is not scheduled and has no EU restriction.

Claims to take care with

'Supports the skin barrier' and 'helps skin retain moisture' are cosmetic, but avoid 'treats eczema' or 'repairs damaged skin'. COSMOS or Halal claims need each grade's certification checked.