A multi-tasking acid that helps blemish-prone and redness-prone skin look clearer and more even.
What it is
Azelaic acid occurs naturally in grains such as wheat and barley and is produced commercially for skincare. At cosmetic strengths it helps the appearance of uneven tone, blemishes and visible redness. Skin that finds other acids too strong often tolerates it well.
Azelaic acid is thought to slow pigment production and help surface cells inside the pore shed normally, which keeps pores looking clear. Results build over two to three months.
Ratings
Evidence
4/5
Strong data for 15–20% medicines, fewer at cosmetic strengths.
Gentleness
3/5
Brief tingling or itch is common at first and usually settles.
Formulation difficulty
4/5
Poorly soluble, so most products are carefully milled suspensions.
Cost
2/5
Moderately priced raw material, though 10% loads add cost.
Popularity
4/5
Reported as 2025's top-trending skincare acid in Google searches.
Pairs and cautions
Pairs well with
In a routine. Pairing in one formula depends on matching pH windows.
Schedule 5 (Caution) as a cosmetic, so artwork needs the CAUTION heading, first-aid text and eye and skin contact directions; therapeutic skin products are Schedule 2.
ASEAN
Prohibited under Annex II of the ASEAN Cosmetic Directive, so it cannot be used in a cosmetic sold in any ASEAN country.
Canada
Capped at 14% in cosmetics, and on the Prescription Drug List, so acne or rosacea claims turn the product into a prescription drug.
United States
Its approved drug forms, a 15% gel, a 15% foam and a 20% cream, are prescription-only and it is not an OTC acne active, so a 10% cosmetic must avoid acne or rosacea claims.
In the lab
Specifications
Typical use level
5–10%0525%
pH window
pH 4–5.52 acid7 neutral10 alkaline
Solubility
ParticulateWater-dispersible
5–10% in leave-on creams and gels; it barely dissolves in water, so it is milled fine and suspended.
Suspend as a micronised powder in the water phase, since only about 0.2% dissolves in water at room temperature. Hot glycols dissolve some, and the derivative potassium azeloyl diglycinate is water-soluble.
Stability
Use a suspending polymer and run freeze–thaw and centrifuge tests to catch crystal growth, grittiness and settling. The acid itself is chemically stable.
Regulatory, Australia
Listed on the AIIC, with no EU limit. Poisons Standard Schedule 2 applies in dermal therapeutic products, Schedule 4 in other therapeutic products and Schedule 5 otherwise, so cosmetics need Caution-schedule labelling with safety directions.
Claims to take care with
Say 'helps the appearance of redness and uneven tone'. Rosacea, acne-treatment or melasma claims make it a medicine (Schedule 2).
