Tasmanian pepperberry

Botanical0.5–2%

A native mountain pepper extract used to calm the look of redness and comfort reactive skin.

What it is

Tasmanian pepperberry is a shrub from the cool forests of Tasmania and south-east Australia, also used as a bush spice. Its leaf and berry extracts contain polygodial and antioxidant polyphenols. Suppliers offer it as a soothing active for sensitive skin, after-shave and after-sun care, and for the look of stretch marks.

Good for

Sensitive skinRednessStretch marks

How it works

Supplier studies report that the leaf extract dampens TRPV1, a skin sensor behind stinging and burning sensations, and lowers some markers linked to skin discomfort. A placebo-controlled trial in 29 women, run by an ingredient company, found smoother, firmer-looking stretch marks after eight weeks.

Ratings

Evidence

3/5

One industry-run randomised trial plus supplier and lab data.

Gentleness

4/5

Positioned for sensitive skin, but spice extracts are pungent.

Formulation difficulty

2/5

Simple glycerin–water extract, added at cool-down.

Cost

3/5

Mid-priced speciality active with seasonal wild supply.

Popularity

2/5

Niche, used by some Australian and international brands.

Pairs and cautions

Pairs well with

In a routine. Pairing in one formula depends on matching pH windows.

Take care with

Culinary pepperberry extracts in leave-onsPungent

Formulations it suits

Serum Cream After-sun gel Lotion Balm

Packaging

Regional considerations

Australia	Not on the EPBC exempt list, so exporting wild-harvested leaf or extract needs a wildlife trade permit and an approved source, such as an approved wildlife trade operation.
China	Listed in China's IECIC as Tasmannia Lanceolata Leaf Extract, so it needs no new-ingredient filing with NMPA.
European Union	Listed in CosIng as Tasmannia Lanceolata Leaf Extract, with no EU restriction or labelling requirement of its own.

In the lab

Specifications

Typical use level

0.5–2%0525%

pH window

pH 4.5–72 acid7 neutral10 alkaline

Solubility

Water-solubleOil-soluble

Sensitive to

Heat

Calming serums, creams and after-sun products use 0.5–2%; follow the supplier's recommended dose for its grade.

INCI	Tasmannia Lanceolata Leaf Extract
Also known as	Mountain pepper, Tasmannia lanceolata, Tasmannia Lanceolata Fruit/Leaf Extract
Origin	plant-derived

Lab notes

Solubility and phase

Water phase for the glycerin–water leaf extract. CO2 extracts are oil-soluble and go into the oil phase.

Stability

Add below 40 °C and preserve the finished formula fully; Clariant's Tazman Pepper C is preservative-free, while some suppliers' standard grades contain sorbate and benzoate.

Regulatory, Australia

Cosmetic ingredient in Australia, so confirm AICIS Inventory status with the supplier. Clariant's Tazman Pepper C is COSMOS- and NATRUE-approved.

Claims to take care with

Cosmetic claims include 'calms the look of redness', 'comforts sensitive skin' and 'improves the appearance of stretch marks', while 'reduces inflammation', 'relieves pain' or 'treats dermatitis' are therapeutic (TGA).