Menthol

Sensory0.1–1%

The cooling compound from mint, used for a fresh, tingling feel in scalp, foot and body care.

What it is

Menthol is the compound that makes mint feel cold, taken from mint oils or made synthetically. It gives an instant cooling, refreshing feel. It suits scalp tonics, shampoos for a flaky scalp, foot care, body washes and after-sun gels.

Good for

Scalp refreshmentTired feetSun-exposed skin

How it works

Menthol switches on TRPM8, the nerve receptor that senses cold, so skin feels cool even though its temperature has not changed. At higher levels it can also sting or tingle strongly. The effect is sensory: it changes how a product feels rather than the skin itself.

Ratings

Evidence

4/5

Cooling mechanism well established, but the benefit is sensory.

Gentleness

3/5

Can sting or redden at higher levels, so keep it away from eyes.

Formulation difficulty

2/5

Dissolves in alcohol, glycols or oils but is volatile and pungent.

Cost

1/5

Inexpensive raw material.

Popularity

3/5

Common in scalp, foot and sport body care, and niche elsewhere.

Pairs and cautions

Pairs well with

In a routine. Pairing in one formula depends on matching pH windows.

Take care with

Products for babies and young childrenCan sting
Eye-area productsCan sting
High levels on broken or sun-reddened skinCan sting or redden

Formulations it suits

Shampoo Body wash Gel After-sun gel Toner, essence and face mist Balm Lip balm

Packaging

Regional considerations

Australia	Menthol is unscheduled and peppermint oil exempt, but camphor in cooling blends is Schedule 6 above 2.5% in liquids or 12.5% in creams and balms. Pain-relief claims make it a therapeutic good.
United States	An OTC drug active at 0.1–1% for itch relief and 1.25–16% as a cooling pain reliever. Those claims need a Drug Facts panel; cosmetic cooling or refreshing claims do not.
European Union	Since 31 July 2026, new EU products must name menthol, including menthol from peppermint oil or fragrance, above 0.001% leave-on or 0.01% rinse-off. Older stock has until 31 July 2028.
Korea	L-menthol is one of four MFDS-listed actives for functional cosmetics that help relieve hair-loss symptoms, so menthol scalp tonics can carry that claim after MFDS functional-cosmetic approval.

In the lab

Specifications

Typical use level

0.1–1%0525%

Solubility

Alcohol-solubleOil-soluble

Sensitive to

Heat

Scalp tonics and foot products go up to about 1% for a strong cooling effect, while lip and face products stay much lower to avoid stinging.

INCI	Menthol
Also known as	L-menthol, Mint camphor
Origin	plant-derived

Lab notes

Solubility and phase

Dissolve in alcohol, glycols or oils, or add to the surfactant phase, as it is only very slightly soluble in water.

Stability

Add below 40 °C and keep packs sealed, as it is volatile. Watch for recrystallisation at high loads in the cold.

Regulatory, Australia

Menthol is not listed in the Poisons Standard, and peppermint oil is in Appendix B. Camphor, often paired with menthol, is scheduled at higher levels, so check blends.

Claims to take care with

Cosmetic claims include 'cooling', 'refreshing' and 'invigorating', while 'relieves itch', 'relieves muscle or joint pain' or 'soothes sunburn pain' are therapeutic and need ARTG entry (TGA).