Caffeine pouch

Caffeine

Alkaloid0.2–2%

A familiar, fast-absorbing ingredient used in scalp care for fuller-looking hair and body care for firmer-looking skin.

What it is

Caffeine is the same molecule found in coffee and tea, made synthetically or recovered during decaffeination. It is absorbed quickly into the scalp, which is why it is popular in shampoos and scalp serums for thinner-looking hair. In body care it is used to help skin look firmer and smoother.

Good for

Fuller hairFirmnessDimpled skinPuffiness

How it works

Caffeine is small and water-soluble, so it reaches the hair follicles within minutes, even from a shampoo. In small scalp studies this helped hair look fuller, though results are modest. On the body it may reduce puffiness for smoother-looking skin.

Ratings

Pairs and cautions

Pairs well with

In a routine. Pairing in one formula depends on matching pH windows.

Take care with

  • None noted.

Formulations it suits

Packaging

Squeeze bottle
Dropper bottle
Pump bottle

Regional considerations

AustraliaCaffeine is Schedule 6 as a raw material, but preparations for external use are exempt, so topical products need no poison labelling. Hair-growth or hair-loss claims make it a therapeutic good.
United StatesFDA regards any OTC product claiming to grow hair or prevent hair loss as a new drug that needs an approved new drug application, so US caffeine shampoos and serums must stay with cosmetic claims about how hair looks.
ChinaAny anti-hair-loss claim makes the product a special cosmetic that needs NMPA registration before import, and products claiming to promote hair growth cannot be sold as cosmetics.
In the lab

Specifications

Typical use level
pH window
Solubility
Water-soluble

Shampoos often use 0.5–1%, and leave-on scalp serums and body products up to about 2%.

INCICaffeine
Also known as1,3,7-Trimethylxanthine
Originsynthetic

Lab notes

Solubility and phase
Water phase, where about 2% dissolves at 25 °C. Warmth, a glycol or a hydrotrope such as sodium benzoate or niacinamide lets more dissolve.
Stability
Cold-test any batch near the solubility limit, since crystals are the main risk. It is otherwise heat- and light-stable.
Regulatory, Australia
Cosmetic ingredient in Australia. Pure caffeine is Schedule 6, but preparations for external use are excluded, so topical cosmetics are unscheduled.
Claims to take care with
Cosmetic claims include 'fuller-looking hair', 'invigorates the scalp' and 'smoother-looking skin'. 'Promotes hair growth', 'reduces hair loss' or 'treats alopecia' are therapeutic and need ARTG entry (TGA).

Sources