Cleansing balm or oil
AnhydrousHot fill
A waterless oil or balm cleanser for removing make-up and sunscreen.
Slips across dry skin, then turns milky and rinses off to a soft finish.
What it is
Cleansing balms and oils are oils mixed with an emulsifier that switches on when water is added. Massaged onto dry skin they dissolve make-up and sunscreen, and with a splash of water they turn milky and rinse off. Balms are set with waxes into a solid, while oils stay liquid in a pump bottle.
Who it suits
Dry skinNormal skin
Typical actives
What is in it
| Oil phase | Caprylic/capric triglyceride, sunflower oil, jojoba oil, ethylhexyl palmitate |
|---|---|
| Rinse-off emulsifier | PEG-20 glyceryl triisostearate, polyglyceryl-4 oleate, polyglyceryl-10 esters, sorbeth-30 tetraoleate |
| Structuring wax (balms) | Candelilla wax, hydrogenated vegetable oils, polyethylene |
| Antioxidant | Tocopherol |
Benefits and challenges
Benefits
- Removes long-wear make-up and water-resistant sunscreen.
- Waterless, so low microbial risk while kept dry.
- Gentle, non-foaming cleanse.
Challenges
- Wet fingers in a jar can bring in microbes.
- Too little emulsifier can leave a film.
- Balms can soften or melt in heat.
Shelf life
18–24 months01236 months
6–12 months01224 months
Limited by oil oxidation. Main risks are cloudiness, sweating, graininess and rancid odour.
Packaging
In the lab
50 L pilot 
1,000 L 
5,000 L production
How it is made
- 01Blend oils and emulsifierAt room temperature for cleansing oils.
- 02Melt in waxes (balms)At about 75–85 °C.
- 03Add oil-soluble ingredientsFragrance and actives after slight cooling.
- 04Fill and setBalms hot filled; oils filtered and filled cold.
hot fill · 70 °CCleansing oils skip the hot fill and go into oil-rated pumps, and water is kept off the line because it clouds the product.
Specifications
Batch sizes
Lab notes
Preservation
Often unpreserved, supported by an ISO 29621 risk assessment. Some jar balms add an oil-soluble preservative because of wet-hand use.
Stability testing
Heat cycling, melting point, oxidation checks, rinse-off and emulsification tests with water, and pack compatibility.
Regulatory, Australia
Cosmetic for cleansing and make-up removal claims. Label ingredients under the Consumer Goods (Cosmetics) Information Standard 2020.